Stage 2 block strength

kyle41005

Member
Sep 23, 2010
35
5
8
How well do these blocks hold up to 1000+hp? Would it be wise to start out with a t/a aluminum block or does stage 2 hold up just as well? Buying a complete stage 2 motor. I'm wanting 1000+. What would you run?
 

kyle41005

Member
Sep 23, 2010
35
5
8
Anyone run a stage 2 block in their car that can share their experience? I have it and would like to use it, unless I'm setting myself up for failure. Is the t/a block necessary?
 

NY Twin Turbo

All the good stuff.....Times 2.
Dec 10, 2014
2,621
963
113
47
Westchester NY
TA or Stage block. It doesn't matter. If your not using a spent used block that had a crank or rod previously snap in it, or it has been over-bored, or some other poor machine work done to it, it will not fail. Well, certainly at least up to more than 1000 HP.

But that's not going to be your problem. The parts you build it with , who builds it, and most important, the tune are your only problems. Unlike a 109, that can split right down the middle at a some unknown given HP level (even on a safe tune) That's just not going to happen.

No. When yours breaks, it won't be the block's fault. Instead, It will be your own.
 

dank GN

BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
Jan 11, 2009
3,656
446
83
SoCal the high desert
Yep spot on NY twins . Both a stage block and a new aluminum TA block will hold that kinda hp it will all come down to your tune and if you got the right combo put together to make that kinda power with out having to stress out certain parts. You can have a badass block and crank but if you skimp on the rods or pistons HP loves finding the weakest link . Anyway let us know what you Decide to do and what route you plan on going.
 

dank GN

BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
Jan 11, 2009
3,656
446
83
SoCal the high desert
If you have a stage motor by all means run it . There is plenty of guys making that kinda power out of a stage block . You don’t need a TA block
 

kyle41005

Member
Sep 23, 2010
35
5
8
Thanks everyone. It's a "spare" motor that was never used so I should be good. Got lucky finding it.
 

turbo nasty

Turbo Dojo / MNTR
Jul 19, 2001
8,236
434
83
St Paul, MN
So heres the kicker... all stage 2's CANT handle that power. Theres core shift in many where the cylinders are thin and if they have been bored out this wouldnt be a good candidate and its best to get the cylinders sonic checked. The on center stuff especially the last iterations with all 4 bolt main caps or 4 bolt and 6 bolt main are better but, still should be checked. Another concern with the OFC stage stuff with the 3.8 is cracking between freeze plugs. Now the TA block is awesome but will need 1kish in machining work above and beyond purchase but will get it done without issue. Either way not cheap
 

TurboBuRick

Moderator
Staff member
Feb 18, 2006
9,172
454
83
47
South subs. of Chicago
So heres the kicker... all stage 2's CANT handle that power. Theres core shift in many where the cylinders are thin and if they have been bored out this wouldnt be a good candidate and its best to get the cylinders sonic checked. The on center stuff especially the last iterations with all 4 bolt main caps or 4 bolt and 6 bolt main are better but, still should be checked. Another concern with the OFC stage stuff with the 3.8 is cracking between freeze plugs. Now the TA block is awesome but will need 1kish in machining work above and beyond purchase but will get it done without issue. Either way not cheap
Yup, these are the facts ^^^^
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: turbo nasty

kyle41005

Member
Sep 23, 2010
35
5
8
Idk I have to pick it up still it's a few states away. Supposed to be a fresh motor. I'm going to go through it tho. Probably have to lower the compression quite a bit and use some more sane spring pressures and cam for lower rpms. Nascar motors weren't exactly built for longevity. Here's a pic of it.
 

Attachments

750H.P.V6

Old confused member
Sep 4, 2001
3,104
502
113
51
Sunny Califonia
It's an On Center motor. The block casting should be 2550153. These are later blocks from the Buick Motorsports program. Since it appears to be an ex Busch GN engine the bore size should be between 4.00 and 4.020" which will give you a good cylinder wall thickness and the option for rebuilds in the future. Once you get it apart be sure to sonic check the block for core shift. The On Center blocks are much better than the earlier castings from that standpoint.

Neal
 

karolko

Well-Known Member
Sep 18, 2007
1,085
29
48
Alberta, Canada
I know lots of the TSO guys with iron blocks are running well into the 1500hp range with there 88mm turbos.

They can handle the power, but at that level the lifespan of them is shortened.

My stage II 153 casting is well over 1000hp and it’s lived thru quite a bit of abuse.

As others have said, it’s more about the internals and the tune
 

434nova

Active Member
Sep 30, 2013
732
61
28
I know lots of the TSO guys with iron blocks are running well into the 1500hp range with there 88mm turbos.

They can handle the power, but at that level the lifespan of them is shortened.

My stage II 153 casting is well over 1000hp and it’s lived thru quite a bit of abuse.

As others have said, it’s more about the internals and the tune
Damm how many guys running tso and making close to 1500 hp? That’s super impressive. I didn’t think they made that much power. Wow
 

karolko

Well-Known Member
Sep 18, 2007
1,085
29
48
Alberta, Canada
Any real TSO car with an 88mm is making some serious power.

Even the guys in the old TSL class with 76mm turbos we’re making more than 1k.

But back to the topic, listen to everyone here, spend the money on a virgin block, TA or iron, but if you can spare the cash, I would go aluminum. The weight savings alone is crazy. Plus finding a stage II iron block these days is hard. I have a spare that I will never let go.
 
Top Bottom