stage 2 fueling?

Tim Barnum

Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2001
I'm running one 340 walboro fuel pump on my stage 2 headed motor. Is a inline pump in addition to the walboro a good idea for 83lb injectors? Or should i go with one large pump? I can only run 15lb boost with my current setup. I want moore.:D Thanks Tim
 
6 x 83# inj = 498 x 2 = 996 horepower of fuel that the injectors can supply.
The most that I have seen listed for 340 pump is around 600 HP of fuel.
As long as you keep the boost down you will not run out of fuel (maybe). Watch the O2..
IMHP you need a lots more than just a pump in line with the 340.

What I did with mine was to drop 1/2" suction line into the top of the tank and feed it to a Bosch (15amp) external pump which feeds into a "Y" block that my 340 intake pump also feeds into. Then I used 1/2" line from the "Y" to the fuel rail.
My second pump is hobbs switch to come on at 12# of boost.

You could go the sump route or with another brand of pump with more capacity.

Gary :)
 
No thats flywheel! if you are running just 1 walbro w/t stage 2 heads and block Im truly suprised you havent grenaded the thing!let alone achieved 15#s of boost on it already.I am running Reds Double pumper assy. and I would not even recommend that for what youve got.You need some serious fuel pumping capacity, with some 1/2" lines unless you plan on keeping it under 800Hp at the flywheel.then a double pumper and stock lines should be fine. otherwise you need an H/O aeromotive pump and 1/2" braided lines.
 
Jeff Harrington has a second line going to the fuel rail that he engages at 9psi. He has 83lb injectors and it works well. It will allow you to run the stock return lines and feed lines. You will just have to weld a bung onto your rail, and use a pressure switch to engage the pump.

After that, you will need some better tires!:)
 
STAGE 2 and fueling

I was running a 340M w/ stock lines and Champs w/ 72's. Here's what i've found:
1. AT 10.20 and 132 the fuel base setting of 44 psi plus 18psi boost, the FP was slowly falling to 56psi at the end of the run. A loss of 8 psi. The engine was "happy" in the EGT[1600*F] and the plugs were toasty tan. At this point we made 2 conclusions.
A. We were out of boost as the previous run @ 22 psi was no faster than the 18psi run. This was due to 2 factors. A PT - 70 won't do the job and the pump is at it's limit. [and we were REAL LUCKY!!!]:eek:

The plan evolved to:
1. Add a -10 pickup to the tank, NEAR the bottom. [Not a good idea to try to pull the fuel vertically w/ an external pump.]
I use an Aeroquip -10 weld bung and 5/8 thin wall tube to make a pickup. I then WASH the tank w/ Purple stuff and grind the lower rt rear flat area to remove the coating. I then drill a hole, using grease on the UNIBIT to capture most of the chips. [A unibit also makes a clean, burr free and true round hole.] I then weld a reinforcing plate some 2" X 2" w/ rounded corners so the wt of the lines don't crack the thin tank mat'l.[ The plate corners are rounded so I'm not welding to a sharp corner, thus creating stress risers!!] ALL WELDS ARE TIG!!
I then repeat the scenario in the upper left corner w/ a -6 bung and a 3/8" tube to direct the return flow down into the tank so that the pickup is as far away from the heated return fuel as possible. On a hot day, return fuel can be WAAY over 100*
REMEMBER, the OEM return line is only something less than 1/4" ID and MOST ALL aftermkt pumps require AT LEAST a -6, some want -8!!;)
Finally, I run -10 to the ft of the car, adapt it to -8 to the rails and use a ACCUFAB billet reg.[NOTE: I called "John" @ Accufab and he told me that he runs this same reg. on his car and has a WELDON 2025 on it.] I plumbed the return from the reg using an adapter for P/S [o'ring style] to -6. The hose near the ft of the engine is stainless braided, rest of the line is -6 Aeroquip pushloc. [NHRA legal] w/ anti abrasion wrap and Areoquip fireshield sleeve where needed.

The pump/filter is an SX system w/ a check valve at the tank outlet. Am also installing a pump voltage control for street use. I's boost controlled and slows the pump when cruising.[Makes the pump live longer]

that's about it!! Phew!:D

Back under my gas tank;)
PS: I'm scared of the 2 pump deal for 3 reasons:
1. If 1 fails, the engine doesn't quit, it just melts.
2. I would be wary of the ability of an in-line added pump to get enough volume by having to pull the fuel thru the in-tank pump.
3. Pumps set up w/a "Y". what prevents the fuel from returning thru the ck valve in the smaller pump?/ [If it even has 1]
 
I just ran a 10.758 @ 126.13 with 15lb boost and a 1625egt and no knock and no cage.:D I think that's going to be the limit on my current fuel setup. My car weighs 3500lb with me in it. I'll probably go with one large pump. And not blow it up. Thanks Tim
 
Stage 2 fuel

Tim, does your car have the A/C and such in it?? mine is at 3675# w/ me in it. I'm wondering, if the A/c is there, what did you do to clear the heads? I have the ATR heater spacing kit but have not tried the real stage heads as I wanted to avoid the accessory mounting hassles.
Sounds like you have the same problem w/ the turbo being at it's limit. I'm looking to go to the T-72BB or maybe a 76. I drive mine on the street too[passed smog w/ the Felpro] and do not have a cage either. Mine is kind of a suspension test mule and is not run where I get alot of "incoming chin music" from the track mgmt.;)
I run alky on the street w/ no led and max boost for the turbo size
[ usually less than 22] Cops are bad on slicks so I use BFG drag radials w/ limited success.:mad:

CU round the board.
Back to my fuel system install.;)
 
I took out the a/c and the heater box for more room, but i kind of wish i had it back. The mechanic that i use for most of my work runs a pt-70 three bolt on his stock motor and runs 10.30's at 135mph at 3350lbs or so. I'm going to turn mine up a little when i get more fuel. And I'm going to make one of my cars a all out racer with mostly fiberglass stuff $$$$$$$.:D If all goes well with the wife, maybe about 2800lbs worth of car. Does anyone know where i can get fiberglass doors and other fiberglass stuff? If so please let me know. Thanks Tim
 
I have it on pretty good authority that shortly there will be a replacement gas tank out for these cars that will come in two styles. First one will have a built in sump for external pumps and the second will more than likely be an OEM replacement. If you're not hung up on the Walbro's, the first one should work good for you. There are some external pump options that would work very nice for your setup without enough noise to drive you insane.
 
Re: STAGE 2 and fueling

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper
I plumbed the return from the reg using an adapter for P/S [o'ring style] to -6.

Where can one get such an adaptor, and is it an angled fitting so the hose clears the intake manifold?

Art
 
Reg fitting

Art, the folks at Aeroquip have them and so does JEGS.
It has an o'ring on a stem just like the OEM line and screws into the reg in the same way.
I have tall covers on my engine and also have a BGC manifold and had no need for a angled fitting. I used a 90* on the hose to clear the cover.
HTH,;)
 
Hey sign me up for one o' them thar gussied up tanks ;-) I need something like that.

Details please?

TurboTR
 
Originally posted by TurboTR
Hey sign me up for one o' them thar gussied up tanks ;-) I need something like that.
TurboTR

Then how are you going to mount your parachute?

Art
 
Re: Reg fitting

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper
Art, the folks at Aeroquip have them and so does JEGS.
It has an o'ring on a stem just like the OEM line and screws into the reg in the same way.
I have tall covers on my engine and also have a BGC manifold and had no need for a angled fitting. I used a 90* on the hose to clear the cover.
HTH,;)

Thanks, Chuck, I'll look for the Aeroquip part. Either that'll work or I'll hack a stock return line a few inches down from the regulator.

Art
 
Originally posted by Tim Barnum
And I'm going to make one of my cars a all out racer with mostly fiberglass stuff $$$$$$$.:D If all goes well with the wife, maybe about 2800lbs worth of car. Does anyone know where i can get fiberglass doors and other fiberglass stuff? If so please let me know. Thanks Tim

Tim, several places offer at least bumpers and hoods in fiberglass. Jack Cotton recently started selling hoods, doors, decklids, etc. and I saw a set at Bristol (when Cal loaded half a car in his Suburban to take home to FL :) ). The pieces looked to be very good quality and the doors will accept stock glass and hardware. Maybe Cal can chime in and tell us how the mounting etc. went.
 
My body shop did all the work, so I can't tell you how hard it was. They did say they had close to 20 hours in them. They had to make plates to mount the hinges to. They also had to take out the springs in the hinge that allows the door to stop at certain points (I will fing a weaker replacement). I weighed EVERYTHING before and after and I saved 38#/side. I was hoping for more, but I kept the power windows and locks.
 
10 hrs apiece is about right on the doors. The easiest way to make the plates for the hinges is to cut the area where the hinges bolt to a stock rotted/not usable door and trim to fit inside the 'glass doors. That way you get some reinforcement plus the hinges are going to be in proper relation to each other.

Paul Thompson
 
Thanks Kendall, What is the lightest you think i could get my car with a fiberglass one piece front end, doors and trunk? Thanks Tim
 
Thanks Kendall, What is the lightest you think i could get my car with a fiberglass one piece front end, doors and trunk? Thanks Tim
 
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