Starting to lose my mind with going from intermittant no-run to no start issue

Just was saying i can tell fuel is being pumped through system upto the fuel rail, with fuel pressure. Alittle of what i smell is the fumes from the starting fluid that i squirted a couple short squirts into the intake last week. But it takes more than 4 crank attempts to actually start to get a wiff of anything.


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I sent GNeric a pm, i couldn't find the number for his business so only way i could attempt to contact him was pm here.
I do appreciate every reply to the threads, glad to be a member of this site and it truely is one of the tighter knit, friendly & helpful communities out there. Thanks


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I'll let ya'll know what the solution was once she's running under her own power again, have my word on it.


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Slight update: Well after a genesys obd 1 scanner got used, there's no rpm signal being sent even though the engine is cranking. There's no hidden codes, she's code free. At least i do know part of why she won't start or try to start, just cranks. Definitely not the usual no start issue that our beasts can exhibit, now to wait on how the PIP test goes and 2 other things to be done by another set of eyes. I should know by thursday afternoon the answer of what's causing the problem.


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When you replaced the crank sensor, you put it on using the correct slot, right???
wrong slot = no crank sensor signal = no tach signal = no start.
 
Another slight update, the wiring testing etc that got done this morning by the other set of eyes showed nothing wrong. So tomorrow morning they gonna using a special scope compare a signal from a running gn they have against a signal from my car to see if the crank and cam signal are matching up or not.


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Yeah, but they will be slayed. At least they have another good running car to compare against to speed up finding the solution.


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Glad ya got someone to help you out. Another thing handy about having a running car to compare it to is you can swap around good known parts.
 
have you put it on tdc and looked at the location of the cam sensor window to make sure it hasn't jumped time(bad timing chain)
 
Another update, Crank and cam sensors are firing signal just not at right time. They are gonna try 1 more thing and then depending how that goes dictates if they have to pull the timing cover or not. So that's where things are as of today with her.


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Update: even though i was sure i put the crankshaft position sensor in the proper position, turns out it was in the other slot of the 2 it can go into. So once they moved it from the 12x to the 4x slot, she fired up and roared like a healthy turbo buick v6 should. Was gonna mention it to them to verify that it was in there like it should be, they had double checked it earlier today before i met up with them today to see if there was any further progress. So tomorrow i should be getting to get her back and she should be running 100% again without any hiccups under any boost level.

So far so good, gonna see how she is tomorrow and hopefully that is all it was. It's possible that the old maf sensor might of been needing to be replaced anyways seeing as it was an autozone reman from about 3 years ago and it could of been messing with the air/fuel mix the last little bit before the old crank sensor took a dump on me. On the bright side if one of the parts i did replace do go bad, i can just get it warrantied out since i got it from the same store and be good to go.


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"Update: even though i was sure i put the crankshaft position sensor in the proper position, turns out it was in the other slot of the 2 it can go into."

:D;)
 
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