Steering And Suspension Upgrades

hawkfan

Active Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2012
New TR guy here. I recently got an 87 limited and have spent a lot of time searching and reading the various forums on this board, but still had some questions. As far as the suspension/brakes are concerned, everything looks stock except for the following items:

-Bilstein shocks all around
-New 'looking'(no rust or corrosion at all) springs all around(unknown brand)
-Vacuum brakes with aluminum drums on the rear and what look to be larger discs up front

I've ordered frame braces(all 3 front braces and the rear seat braces) and body bushings from Kirban to tighten up the frame and stop all the flexing. Now, I need some assistance on what else I might need to look at. So far, I've been seeing the Hellwig Pro Touring swaybar mentioned a lot here. It's priced right and it looks like it won't interfere with a 2.5" exhaust, so I think I'm set there. I've read to leave the front swaybar alone. What other components should I be looking at? This will be a 100% street driven car, but I want it to turn the occasional corner too.

I've also noticed play in the steering response that I'd like to reduce/fix. This is a 120k mile car and looks to have the original steering shaft with rag joint. I've read about the Jeep Cherokee steering shaft mod and have several to choose from at the local Pull A Part. I have access to Jeep Cherokees and Jeep Grand Cherokees year 87-96. I've read there are slight differences in the shafts and wanted to know which model(Cherokee vs Grand Cherokee) and year is the most compatible with the TR? Sorry for the long post but I wanted to be as specific as possible. I'd really appreciate any suggestions/advice.
 
This should give you just about everything you need to answer your questions.;)
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/suspension-and-brake-recipes.326227/
Thanks. After some more reading, it looks like the next things I will do after the frame bracing and body bushings are, in order:

-Jeep steering shaft (the latest up to '96 I can find with no play)
-Poly/polygraphite(no squeaking) front suspension bushings
-Rear sway bar and boxed rear lower control arms

I'll get a Jeep shaft(or two) tomorrow. I'll try to stagger the mods so I can tell which one makes the most difference. The car's not terrible as is it sits right now due to the mods already done to it, but I feel it can be better without spending crazy money. Thanks again.
 
HR STUFF A-1 SWAY BAR POLY ARMS MOTOR MOUNTS GREAT UPGRADE . WISH HE MADE MORE STUFF FOR FRONT ;) :)
 
*Update* Installed a steering shaft from a 1994 Jeep Cherokee today. Getting it to expand and collapse was no fun but it finally cooperated. While removing the old rag joint shaft, I couldn't help but notice how much it flexed and twisted. I drilled hole(s) through the firewall end of the Jeep shaft to reinstall the nut and bolt from the old rag joint shaft as a fail safe. Loctited and tightened everything up and took her out for a spin and there is no more slop! Woohoo! Who would've ever thought putting a Jeep part in a Buick would be an upgrade? :)
 
I figured I'd post here instead of opening another thread. I ordered Spohn rear upper and lower arms and a Hellwig 55809 rear sway bar and was looking at possible front sway bar options for later on down the line. Right now, I'm stuck between the Hellwig 55700 front sway bar and the 36mm F body bar. The F body is waaay cheaper of course and would be my preferred choice with a little sanding and some paint, but I don't want my cheapness to cloud my judgement.:oops:
 
Go with the 36mm f body bar. Theres really not much difference between that and an aftermarket bar.
 
I would cancel the hellwig protouring bar .The hardware is crap. there are no heim joints ,just bushings. I was going to get one and I had one to check out .I wanted to make sure it fit with the Lpw rear cover. When I opened the box of hardware I closed it right back up. Does not even compare to HR or Spohn bars. I have seen all three up close. HR is the known best but the price is up there then the spohn bar which is about a hundred cheaper than the hr bar.I think the only differance between the two is one has a hollow bar and one is tubular. I know the hellwig bar is cheap but there is a reason for that. just my 2 cents.
How is the rest of the front end? ball joints ,center link,idler arm ,tierods, bushings
 
hello; Sounds like your getting all the right stuff but don't forget the springs. A little lower car will help in a street car from cornering to look. Tires are another thing to thing about.
have fun
IBBY
 
hello; Sounds like your getting all the right stuff but don't forget the springs. A little lower car will help in a street car from cornering to look. Tires are another thing to thing about.
have fun
IBBY
Thanks. I'm working on the suspension a piece at a time. Just installed the 6 piece body bushing kit yesterday but didn't get a chance to drive it yet. The spings and shocks look relatively new(Bilstein shocks, I'm not sure what brand the springs are). They aren't lowering springs though. Oh, and the car already came with GTA 16x8 wheels and Falken tires.
 
I would cancel the hellwig protouring bar .The hardware is crap. there are no heim joints ,just bushings. I was going to get one and I had one to check out .I wanted to make sure it fit with the Lpw rear cover. When I opened the box of hardware I closed it right back up. Does not even compare to HR or Spohn bars. I have seen all three up close. HR is the known best but the price is up there then the spohn bar which is about a hundred cheaper than the hr bar.I think the only differance between the two is one has a hollow bar and one is tubular. I know the hellwig bar is cheap but there is a reason for that. just my 2 cents.
How is the rest of the front end? ball joints ,center link,idler arm ,tierods, bushings
The Hellwig bar is already in my garage. It has to be better than the stocker from the look of it and where it mounts. I'll at least give it a try. If it doesn't work out I'll sell it. I already have some Spohn rear upper and lower control arms coming, so a Spohn swaybar wouldn't be out of the question if the Hellwig bar doesn't work.
 
Go with the 36mm f body bar. Theres really not much difference between that and an aftermarket bar.
Thanks. I was leaning toward the F body bar. That and the front bushings(most likely Moog) will probably be the last things I get for the front suspension.
 
*UPDATE* Installed the 6 piece body bushing kit and the front frame braces. The car feels really solid up front now. Still waiting on the backseat 'GNX' cross braces. I plan on getting the rear sway bar and upper and lower arms in tomorrow.

I had a chance to get a good look at the front suspension while I had it on jack stands and it all looked original. Strangely enough, I felt little to no play in it at all when I tried to rock it back and forth. The car has 120k on it, so I'm thinking about replacing the wear items as suggested on this site. I found this kit during a search here and thought it looked good:

http://www.kanter.com///productdeta...0&Vdr=&Itm=&MDv=1&MDpt=0&MSb=0&Cat=60&Prc=266

Are poly bushings on moving parts still a 'no-no' for our cars? (The Spohn arms out back have grease fittings) I was set on Moog rubber bushings for the front to avoid noise, but it would be nice to find a 'kit' with all of the parts I'll need. It should be noted that I will NOT be tackling the front suspension myself. I'll take it somewhere where I can get it all swapped out and aligned at one time. Are there any QUALITY front suspension kits that include everything I would need?
 
:D I did read that and that's exactly why I decided to not do this myself. A man has to know his limitations. The rear suspension is cake compared to the front. What's your take on poly vs rubber bushings for the moving parts of the front suspension? How about the graphite impregnated poly bushings in the Kanter kit? I'm torn between the rubber vs. poly because I want to have competent handling but I don't want a rock hard ride either. That's one of the reasons I don't want to lower the car.
 
I don't like poly myself since it usually squeeks and can bind up some. There are other option as well. Speedway motors and a few others sell a steel bushing replacement that works well and won't bind up the front suspension. Matt used these in his car and it's an outer sleeve that's pressed into the arm and then another sleeve goes into that. It's greasable and it moves as well so it actually softens or keep the ride the same as stock rubber.;) Here's the part numbers if you want to go to speedway and look them up.:) Lower control arm bushings part numbers: Front - 106-20069LW, Rear - 106-20076LW. The front lower arms use 2 different bushings so you need 2 of each one.
 
I don't like poly myself since it usually squeeks and can bind up some. There are other option as well. Speedway motors and a few others sell a steel bushing replacement that works well and won't bind up the front suspension. Matt used these in his car and it's an outer sleeve that's pressed into the arm and then another sleeve goes into that. It's greasable and it moves as well so it actually softens or keep the ride the same as stock rubber.;) Here's the part numbers if you want to go to speedway and look them up.:) Lower control arm bushings part numbers: Front - 106-20069LW, Rear - 106-20076LW. The front lower arms use 2 different bushings so you need 2 of each one.
Thanks!
 
**Update** Installed the rear seat frame braces and the Helwig sway bar. The Helwig sway bar wasn't as simple as I thought it was going to be. Had to cut off 2" from the end links because they were waaaay too long. I found out I wasn't the only person who has had to do that. Also had to add an additional washer to the 1/2" bolts that go through the crossmember and clevis on each side because the 1/2" bolt was too long to allow me to slide the end link up enough to get the mounting bolt through the bushing. Had to rotate the U-bolt assemblies/sway bar clockwise to clear the diff at ride height and give it room to move, but that was expected. Making all these changes/adjustments kinda suck after you've already torqued everything down, but it was a learning experience and well worth it. I left it on the 'middle' setting and there is NO body roll or 'wallowing' when I change lanes fast or give the car quick steering inputs.

All that's left for the rear suspension are the Spohn upper and lower control arms. As far as the front suspension, all I want to do is change out the old bushings with Moog rubber bushings. I want to maintain some 'give' in the suspension The only bushing that will be poly or metal is the one closest to the downpipe to avoid melting. I've decided to leave the front sway bar alone. The car corners fine as is for the street now. The car feels 'easy' to drive now with the few suspension mods so far.
 
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