Still having TPS issues

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You sure the TPS screw errrr IACV air mix screw is set right?

You guys I think are measuring two different things here.

:confused:
 

What are the chances of 2 bad TPS's?

if they were both new, and both the wrong sensor for the car...?

or the ECM has a bad TPS input?

I may get the chance to do the throttle block test tomorrow. but it seems that we have proven the issue.

Can you borrow an ECM?

B
 
Now that I think of it, my measurement should have yielded greater voltage readings then you. The radius where I measured is smaller, therefore more rotation to insert these objects. I will do it the same as you when I get home tonight.

Bob, I agree that ECM may be to blame, but he said he measured at the sensor with a meter.

Now I just read the original post indicating range from .42 to 4.3 WOT. So you say the increase thru the travel is not linear?

On the other hand, you said that the voltage jumps when the car is started. Now I'm really confused. :confused:
 
The voltage jumps a little on all cars that I have seen, usually about .02

anyway, if there weas a lot of (conductive) corrosion in the ECM connector, or the ecm was backfeeding the circuit the the measurements of a DVM and the ECM/Scantool will match.

The only thing he hasn't tried is another ECM.....


Bob
 
This is such a simple sensor. Clip the signal(center) wire and perform the tests. They should be the same as when the wire is connected. If the ECM is back feeding voltage to the TPS wire, this test I mention will prove this.

The reason voltage changes when the vehicle is running is due to the vacuum/air moving the blade. The 5 volts from the ECM is regulated and doesnt care what the battery voltage is. Now if the car has one those TPS Tec gizmo's..that another story. Easy wiring fix is run the signal wire from the TPS straight to the ecm pin. Thats if there is a problem in the harness. You dont seem to be loosing ground, you dont seem to be loosing the 5volts..you just have whacky readings. So there is voltage being fed into the TPS signal wire through the harness or by the ECM. Agian clipping the signal wire to the ecm will let you verify this.

HTH
 
Hmm,

I hate clipping wires, especially underhood. Better to release center the pin from the harness. Everyone should have a packard pin tool....

But, yes, this is a good test.

Bob
 
Scottyb : Believe me, you're not the only one confused here ,and yes you're right on both. The voltage does jump when running, it starts at .36 key on engine off and jumps to the proper .44 when it's running. So I'm getting the proper start and end voltages, but not linear to the amount of travel.

Razor and Bob : good idea on the signal wire, I'll have to try that in the morning. I'm pretty sure the wiring in the harness is OK based on the previous testing. I believe that both Sensors came from different sorces, one of them a TR vendor so I'm leaning toward the ECM too. That test tomorrow should tell me for sure. If I have to, I guess I'll be purchasing a ECM from RED REGAL T soon.

I'll also check that the 5V feed stays at 5V for the whole TPS travel range and give the ECM and connectors a shot of contact cleaner while I'm at it.
I'll report back tomorrow what I find. Thanks again!
 
I'm still at it!!

Well, I finally got around to replacing my ECM. It's still messed up.:mad: :confused: I must be missing something here. Does the Calpack have any effect on the TPS circut? That's the only thing that the new and old ECM have in common. I'm also going to try running seperate wires outside the car from the sensor to the ECM. I'm running out of idea's here :(

Does anyone have a good TPS Sensor around that they can measure the resistence between the pins on? I'm going to check one of mine and see if the resistance between the first half of travel is the same as the second half.
 
IT'S FIXED!!!!! IT'S FIXED!!!!!
After trying everything I could possibly think of I started messing with the actual plug for the TPS sensor. It turns out some @$$ *#&$ ^$(^ $#$%@ hole had switched the +5V and the signal wire in the plug. I borrowed a pin tool tonight and switched them back. Now all is well. I'm getting the normal .02 jump on start up and the full 4.8+V at WOT. I can hold a 80mph cruise at under 1.35V. Works for me! Thanks for all the help!
 
Sleeper-6

I just read this thread and am curious if you had this problem all the time you have owned this car, and if so was this a problem for the previous owner. The reason I ask is because I heard onetime that a few cars came from the factory with those wires crossed. I know someone that didn't find what was wrong with his car and finally fixed it by changing the entire wiring harness. I know because I was there when it was done. It was probably 10 years ago and I think when the harness was checked over that might have been discovered to be the problem. The car had never run right from day one.

If you think about it, it would take someone who wanted to sabotage the car to get those wires crossed.

I am happy you finally found it. I know how it feels to not find a problem like that. I have owned my Typhoon since new and never ran right untill I finally found it had a bad EGR only a few months ago. I believe it was that way since new. I spent hundreds of $$$ before I found it.
 
I've owned the car for the last year and a half or so. I've had the problem the whole time, but it wasn't until I had most of the more problematic bugs that came with the car worked out that I noticed the TPS problem. It was driving me insane. I would be getting into Power Enrichment at the slightest bit of throttle, TC woulden't lock up at anything over 55. Something just wasen't right but I couldent get my finger on it. The car actually ran good except for the above few issues.
 
Holy smokes! You've been fighting this for months. I think I would have gone insane!

Thanks for posting back. It's kind of you to share your efforts.

Happy Boosting!
 
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