Stock GN turbo on a 88 c/s dodge daytona

[usetaboost]

Anyone think it would work or would it be way too big? Was thinking it might be a cheap upgrade if I get the car. It is an 88 so it is a blow thru setup 5spd but has no intercooler, but that will change:biggrin:

 

[INEEDAGN]

You'll have to plug/bypass the water lines. Aso I think the dodge turbos are 4 bolt and the GN is 3. don't remember for sure, I gave the dodge turbo away a couple years ago. Space behind the engine is probably too cramped for a 4 to 3 bolt adapter too.....

 

[supercrackerbox]

No, it's not too big, I know guys running larger ones. You'll have noticably slower spool over that puny Mitsubishi turbo you have now, but it's worth it if you can get it to work. You're basically going to have to fabricate a header using a GN flange for the turbo and a header flange for the cylinder head. Not sure exactly where to get those, but I know who to ask. Also, you'll need to fabricate a down pipe for the exhaust with a flex coupler, and a way to connect it to the turbo. Finally, you may need a couple small elbows off the compressor to route it around the cylinder head, depending on how the turbo is located on your fabbed header.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/impuresoul2k3/Daytona/IMG_0156.jpg (friend's car, the pic is a little big)

Honestly for the work involved, I'd just try to find a stock or upgraded Dodge-style turbo, but that's just me.

 

[usetaboost]

well i havent bought the car yet, i gotta check th underneath cause the car has a couple rust holes in it. I'm thinking about doing some work to it and using it as a dd to replace the t/a. From what i've been reading the old stock garret is the way to go. i'm just looking to make it a low 14/high13 car. i'm thinking a washer tank of washer fluid and water should do the trick

 

[GregInAtl]

Its may be physically too large w/ an adaptor (Considered a new exhaust mani to tuck it in and not use an adaptor?!) but the turbo when on should be a lot of fun. I am doing a TA49 on my frontier 2.4L.....

 

[supercrackerbox]

A stock TII Garret should easily get you into the 14s with a good exhaust and intercooler.

 

[usetaboost]

Actually they have gotten them into 12s I think, I know it was a stock longblock I wonder how fast I could get that 88 c/s to go with stock shortblock, turbo, and no intercooler? They are big on the intercooler conversions but I think a DIY alky kit would be a better first power mod. Am I wrong here? From what I understand you can run up to 12 lbs before getting too much detonation. The way it sounds no one runs a knock detector either. Is there no way to wire one up or what?? (don't make fun of me, just trying to learn!)

 

[supercrackerbox]

Yes, Gary Donovan got his '89 Shelby deep into the 12s (12.68 @ 110) with the stock short block and turbo. However he had extensive porting done to the head and manifolds, was pushing a LOT of fuel, and around 30psi of boost. He's the guy who was famous for Relentless, an '85 Plymouth Reliant that ran a best of 10.41 @ 132mph.

Donovan's Dodge Garage <---- TONS of info on this site.

Now, the biggest weak link of your engine will be the connecting rods. The 1986-1988 non-intercooled engines used so-called 'light weight' rods which work fine for stock to mildly modified engines, but aren't good for much more than 200-220 hp. The heavy weight rods from the '87-'88 2.2 and all turbo 2.5 (89-up) engines have been proven to 400whp. Next would be the A-520 transmission. The bearing plate has a tendency to flex under heavy loads which can caust catastrophic failure. Luckily this can be fixed in an hour by replacing it with a chrome-moly plate. Last, Daytonas are among the heaviest cars to get the turbo engines depending on the options package. Luckily the '88-'91 CS package was all about weight savings. No ground effects, no power options, AC was the only option. Some were even radio delete. Still not as light as the L-bodies (like my Charger and GLHS) but as good as it got for the Dodge G-bodies.

Dodge Daytona C/S packages

FWIW, there were only 2433 CS Daytonas built in 1988.

 

[usetaboost]

So basically anything past basic mods i'm gonna b walkin on thin ice. anything i should look for motor wise when i go check this car out?

 

[supercrackerbox]

Look for any obvious hack job repairs- especially stuff like butchered wiring or gobs of RTV all over. Those are my two biggest peeves, lol. If they have a toggle switch to run the fan, it's not a big deal. Not something I ever do, but I'm super picky about wiring.

Valve cover leaks are pretty common, but should never be excessive. The shifter will never be super firm, but it shouldn't be super sloppy either. Other than that, they're really no different from any other turbocharged engine. If you can, inspect the plugs, and maybe do a compression test. These engines rarely run really smooth (inherant to 8v 4 bangers), but listen for obvious misfires, knocks, or excessive rattling in the valve train.

 

[usetaboost]

So if the underneath has as much rust as my buick and the motor sounds worse than a GM 2.5 with a sloppy timing chain, I shouldn't buy it. What about doing suspension/steering components on these cars, are they difficult/expensive?

 

[supercrackerbox]

Front wheel bearings ~$80 each
Axles ~$65 each plus core
ball joints ~$40 each (Moog)
Front bushing set ~$25 (Energy Suspension)
Struts ~$45 each and up
Shocks ~$35 each and up

Konis and Bilsteins are no longer available, you choices for struts and shocks are pretty much limited to Monroe, KYB, and Gabriel.

 

[unix_punk]

I thought I heard something about simply being able to swap the compressor cover from a stock GN to the stock daytona turbo and it worked nicely, I don't remember if that means you need to bring the wheel and shaft over with the cover though.

 

[usetaboost]

I gotta get something that's for sure. Walked out to my car today and it was covered in crap. I'm thinking about selling it. I'd hate to cause it is in decent shape and I've fixed/replaced almost everything on the car, but I think if I keep driving it there I'm just gonna trash it. It would be nice to find a good solid car around here really cheap but I've kind of given up on that. It's almost as hard as finding a project TB around here

 

[supercrackerbox]

Been there. My '86 Daytona CS was mint when I got it, but being forced to daily drive it for 10 years has shot it to hell. Breaks my heart really. I actually have every single part needed to restore it, but the shell is too far rusted.

Trouble is the thing just won't die, and I can't bring myself to replace a perfectly running car.

I thought I heard something about simply being able to swap the compressor cover from a stock GN to the stock daytona turbo and it worked nicely, I don't remember if that means you need to bring the wheel and shaft over with the cover though.

Problem with that is, the turbo on the car in question is a Mitsubishi TE04, which is about halfway between a Buick Garrett and the puny things that came on the Stealth R/T and 3000GT, size wise. It might work on a Dodge Garrett turbo, but if he had that there'd be no point in the first place.