Stock intake mods and power plate

Jon Early

Active Member
I bought a ln RJC power plate for my stock plenum and a new intake realizing I may need some more information before I start throwing things together or cutting for no reason. Will I mess up the power plate's benefits by cutting the EGR tower out of the intake and/or plenum? Is there much of a benefit when doing so or should I just throw it together? I messaged RJC to to see what he thought about it, but I figured I'd see what the group thought too.
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I got my answer first! I guess removing the tower is fine as long as you leave the plate alone. It does look like a bit of a hindrance to flow to those front runners. I will see if my guy at work can mill that out for me.
 
It not only helps TB and front cylinder flow, but also acts to add to the plenum volume of pressurized air to aid in cylinder filling. You can fill the hole with epoxy, or weld a plate flush with the floor.
I drilled a 3/8 hole in the plate and then welded a plate over the egr valve hole and threaded it to run my vacuum brakes.
And while it's off, port match and polish it!
TIMINATOR
 

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Why hadn't I thought of that! That's a great idea. I'm not a fan of the booster hose going to the throttle body. It looks kind of funny. I was going to drill into the back of the intake, but I might have to explore this now.
 
I have been looking at my manifold again since the motors not together yet, I think I will mill the EGR valve boss lower and replate/drill/tap it so it's even cleaner looking. I have a Harbor freight air hose manifold that I may weld on there to provide more vacuum outlets too. Just thinking....
TIMINATOR
 
My old setup was stock internals rjc plate egr delete 42lb injectors turbo tweak chip precision 6266 with alky made 360/364https://youtu.be/6nDiphZa5I8
 
Not bagging on ya, but that's stock turbo territory. Did you have the stock cat on it? old? Clogged? Wideband? scan master? What did the tuning numbers look like? You can run those times with the tuning off, but not for long.
Just trying to help.....
TIMINATOR
 
On another customers car, yes. Mine isn't together yet. Thinking I might add an inline check valve if I crank the boost up.
I have a vacuum pump too, if I need it. I like the Cadillac unit, from around 1990s/2000s. It's under $100, reliable and quiet!
TIMINATOR
 
On another customers car, yes. Mine isn't together yet. Thinking I might add an inline check valve if I crank the boost up.
I have a vacuum pump too, if I need it. I like the Cadillac unit, from around 1990s/2000s. It's under $100, reliable and quiet!
TIMINATOR
I've been looking into vacuum pumps because I miss the feel of the Powermaster and the ability to brake boost the car. Where do you mount your pump? I've been trying to find a way to hide one under the coil pack, but it seems like they're all too big for that. I'm also using a junkyard booster, so I'd probably be doing some good by replacing it too.
 
Roger has his underneath the trunk near the gas tank and electric fuel pump, and it uses the same 12v. feed wire. (Carburated 55 chevy.) He used 3/8"neoprene low pressure fuel line, it works, but it gets kinda sucked flat! It's been like that for 2 years now, but he has plans to replace the rubber with steel tubing, or dual braid F.I. neoprene hose. Cadillacs had theirs on the front of the drivers side wheel well, or in front of the header panel and below the headlites.
His has a vac switch and check valve, so it only runs a bit with a cold engine or in a parking lot situation. Four wheel disc's, 248 @ .050, .600 lift roller, aluminum headed 383. A dual diaphragm booster works better at low vacuum too.
TIMINATOR
 
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