Summer is here. What did you do about....

[Jerryl]

Well, it is time to get ready for summer.
The AC has been converted to 134A and works fine. At least, as good as it will get for now. The engineers decided to place the AC pump tubes about 1" from the up pipe (real smart uh?).

In traffic the AC does not get cold, but on the highway, it is ok. I am running dual electric fans AND the OEM, so I do not belief airflow across the evaporator is not an issue. I belief it a function of thermodynamics into the Aluminum AC tubes on the back of the compressor.

Any ideas with pics of heat shield, AL foil wrapping :tongue:
I am willing to go "Ghetto" for some cooler air.

 

[84GNGary]

Jerryl, the air coming out of the center vent on high max a/c @ around 2000 rpms should be about 30 degrees colder that the ambient temperature. The reason why the air warms up in traffic compared to highway driving is the engine/compressor rpm's. As the compressor truns slower it causes the evaporator pressure and refrigerant temperature to rise because it is pumping less refrigerant, thus causing warmer air temperature. Then just the oppisite happens at higher RPM's. A heat shield on the back of the compressor will do very little to help your a/c in the Texas heat. They are the suction and discharge line on the compressor and as hot as it is under a hood it taxes the whole a/c system. I would'nt bother.

Gary

Also if your heater valve is passing that will also create a problem too. I see in another post your were having problems with that too.

 

[Jerryl]

.......Also if your heater valve is passing that will also create a problem too. I see in another post your were having problems with that too.

Not a problem actually, but going to replace it. It leaks a bit but I think they all leak a bit (??) I may just disconnect the heater for the summer.

Have a new heater valve on order. Thanks!

 

[alec296]

check you radiator and ac core to see how clean they are.
i see alot of dirt and debris settle it there over the months block its efficency
clean out with lower pressure water hose so not to damage fins
can you get a set of 134 pressure gauges?
that can help you determine other problems and fine tune pressures
for best operation.
andy

 

[6SENSE]

I use to trip off the same thing with the relation of where the compressor and uppipe sit, but Id agree with the others that its not an issue when all is working right. I just charged mine back up a few days ago with a couple cans [still room for more] and its working pretty darn good in the 90 deg weather weve been getting here. How did you charge yours? Did you vac out the system and make sure that it holds? Are you sure you have enough freon in the system? If I remember our system holds 3.25 lbs of r12 and with r134 it would be approx 10% less.
If you have access to a machine/pressure gauges when recharging you can tell if there may be any blockage. I replaced the orifice tube last year on my car, the old one was pretty crappy.

 

[Jerryl]

........ How did you charge yours? Did you vac out the system and make sure that it holds? Are you sure you have enough freon in the system? If I remember our system holds 3.25 lbs of r12 and with r134 it would be approx 10% less. ..........

System was vacuumed out, new pump 134A compatible, new orifice tube and (that Aluminum thing :tongue: )and recharged with a DIY kit, 3 cans. Pressure is good and holding. (Did this last year.)
Found that the the AC connector was intermittent and it works after re-connecting it proporly. Now on the Cruise control that decided to suddenly start acting up. (Yes, the switch is adjusted corectly )
Thanks all. Won't have to "go Ghetto" after all.