Suspension Advice / Bang for the buck!

[V8killR4U]

Looking for some advice on the best bang for the buck upgrade in suspension that will make a noticeable difference.
Car is stock outside of rear seat braces.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

[scot w.]

"RideTech's "StreeGrip" complete Front & Rear suspension - $2,500 shipped to your door.... Here are just two of our customers with that suspension and They Love it !!

Donnie Brooks

Dave Erdman

 

[RUQWKNF]

From low to high money wise, here's what I always recommend to my friends.
This would be for a stock car that's going for low 11's to 10.90's.

6pc lower body bushing set (Kirban #7307)
GNX Upper body bushings (Kirban #6740)
Front frame braces (Kirban #6564 or GBody Parts)
Underhood brace set (Kirban #6744 or GBody Parts)
Rear seat brace set (Kirban #1586 or other)
Connecting front brace (Kirban #6756 Note: Works best on cars with stock intercooler. Modifications required if front mount IC or larger SLIC)
HR Parts N Stuff lower control arms (HR Parts)
HR Parts N Stuff non adjustable upper control arms (HR Parts)
1" rear sway bar (UMI, BMR or Spohn)
Air Lift Dual air bag kit for rear coil springs (all vendors)
RJC Racing HD rear motor brace (RJC Racing)
Stock replacement or Energy Suspension front a-arm bushings
BMR, Energy Suspesion Front Sway bar end links & bushings (If you retain the front sway bar that is, but best removed for best weight transfer.)
BMR, Energy Suspension front sway bar mounts and bushings (If you retain the front sway bar)
Bilstein, KYB stock replacement shocks (If not planning on hard drag racing)
HR Parts N Stuff driveshaft safety loop
HR Parts N Stuff poly transmission mount

If serious drag racing, down to low 9's in the 1/4 mile:
Lakewood, QA-1, Viking, or Strange 90/10 front shocks and single adjustable 50/50 rear shocks. (Optional: Adj coil overs front and rear)
HR Parts N Stuff rear sway bar / anti roll bar kit (HR Parts N Stuff or other vendor)
HR Parts N Stuff Adjustable upper and lower control arms (HR Parts N Stuff)
Tubular front upper and lower a-arms (BMR, G-Body Parts or other)

This should be a good starting point.
Things can get crazy once you start building a 8 second and faster combo.
If you're looking for custom ride height and no serious drag racing, Scot's setup above is the way to go.

-Patrick-

 

[V8killR4U]

90% street car are coil overs over kill; Viking?

 

[Turbo6inKY]

From low to high money wise, here's what I always recommend to my friends.
This would be for a stock car that's going for low 11's to 10.90's.

6pc lower body bushing set (Kirban #7307)
GNX Upper body bushings (Kirban #6740)
Front frame braces (Kirban #6564 or GBody Parts)
Underhood brace set (Kirban #6744 or GBody Parts)
Rear seat brace set (Kirban #1586 or other)
Connecting front brace (Kirban #6756 Note: Works best on cars with stock intercooler. Modifications required if front mount IC or larger SLIC)
HR Parts N Stuff lower control arms (HR Parts)
HR Parts N Stuff non adjustable upper control arms (HR Parts)
1" rear sway bar (UMI, BMR or Spohn)
Air Lift Dual air bag kit for rear coil springs (all vendors)
RJC Racing HD rear motor brace (RJC Racing)
Stock replacement or Energy Suspension front a-arm bushings
BMR, Energy Suspesion Front Sway bar end links & bushings (If you retain the front sway bar that is, but best removed for best weight transfer.)
BMR, Energy Suspension front sway bar mounts and bushings (If you retain the front sway bar)
Bilstein, KYB stock replacement shocks (If not planning on hard drag racing)
HR Parts N Stuff driveshaft safety loop
HR Parts N Stuff poly transmission mount

If serious drag racing, down to low 9's in the 1/4 mile:
Lakewood, QA-1, Viking, or Strange 90/10 front shocks and single adjustable 50/50 rear shocks. (Optional: Adj coil overs front and rear)
HR Parts N Stuff rear sway bar / anti roll bar kit (HR Parts N Stuff or other vendor)
HR Parts N Stuff Adjustable upper and lower control arms (HR Parts N Stuff)
Tubular front upper and lower a-arms (BMR, G-Body Parts or other)

This should be a good starting point.
Things can get crazy once you start building a 8 second and faster combo.
If you're looking for custom ride height and no serious drag racing, Scot's setup above is the way to go.

-Patrick-

All good stuff, but you left out the two most important:

1) Good tires
2) Good alignment

 

[scot w.]

One VERY Important thing has been left out, The main USE of the car? Drag or handling?

 

[scot w.]

If you're looking for custom ride height and no serious drag racing, Scot's setup above is the way to go.

-Patrick-

Whats up Patrick?

This "StreetGrip" suspension has actually (Lowered) 60' times due to the adjustable shocks that come with this kit... Same dampening adjustments as their coil overs.

 

[RUQWKNF]

Whats up Patrick?

This "StreetGrip" suspension has actually (Lowered) 60' times due to the adjustable shocks that come with this kit... Same dampening adjustments as their coil overs.

Hey Scot, I'm doing good.
I honestly wasn't aware there were customers drag racing with your kit. That is awesome to hear and no offense, I just didn't know.

And yes, as Turbo6inKY said, good tires and a proper alignment are an absolute must. Especially if the car is bone stock with 30+ year front suspension. (If not upgraded)

For all of the new owners, you gotta know this in advance. If you turn the power up just a tad over bone stock, say +5-8psi over stock with supporting mods, tuning and higher octane or alky, the torque these engines will make, very quickly overwhelms even a high performance hard tire. Nothing short of drag radials will properly hook these cars up once you start turning the boost up. One of the main advantages these cars have on the street, has always been that they are low rpm torque monsters that really get moving in a short distance. Especially with traction.

One last thing to all of the new owners, these cars require a lot of restraint and careful driving in the rain. Especially when the power is turned up and you're on a non drag radial tire or a drag radial for that matter. 1/4 to half throttle while taking a corner or turning is a recipe for a totaled car real quick, if the streets are damp or wet. The power curve is violent and quick when the boost comes on, compared to say a normally aspirated SBC, LS, or Ford anything. I'm talking major torque by 3800 rpm with a simple bolt on combo. CAUTION IS ADVISED IN THE RAIN.
So be careful out there new owners.


-Patrick-

 

[~JM~]

Any feedback on these?

https://southsidemachineperformance.com/products/ultimate-drag-pack

https://southsidemachineperformance.com/products/g-body-ultimate-handleing-package

 

[T- Type Tim]

I didn’t know south side was still around

I had their rear lower control arms in the 90s replaced with umi stuff

Umi is is worthy of a mention as well as their stuff is well made .

I have scots Viking coil overs on my car. (Drag use)
Amazing range of adjustability and ride height


Tim

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Umi is is worthy of a mention as well as their stuff is well made .

Ramey and Ryan at UMI know what they're doing. So do the guys at Speedtech. If you want the easy button, call them and write the check. It shows up in a big box, and you bolt on the solution to all your suspension problems in a weekend.

Or you can piece it together over twenty years learning everything the hard way like I did (don't do what I did).

 

[scot w.]

Please support the supporting vendors here before anywhere else. We are a UMI dealer that is also here for you in knowing Exactly what will fit your car and what will not, UMI uses GNS Performance for test fitment and all questions regarding the GN's. We are Very close friends with Ryan & Ramey.

 

[chris kirk]

Please support the supporting vendors here before anywhere else. We are a UMI dealer that is also here for you in knowing Exactly what will fit your car and what will not, UMI uses GNS Performance for test fitment and all questions regarding the GN's. We are Very close friends with Ryan & Ramey.

That's what's great about Scott, he tests at lot of difference parts himself so if anyone knows what's good and what's not or what'll work and what won't, it's Scott.