T-Top vs Hardtop

[Robbie-87plz]

I am aware that the t-tops are less structurally rigid than the hardtops, but is there a point when there's too much hp/tq for the t top bodied car? Someone please educate me. Thanks.

 

[RobsIron]

I've always thought that once you get solid in the 10s with T Tops its time for a cage.

Both of my cars are HTs so I don't know for sure. Try doing a search.

 

[Bent6]

Hard lauches will cause problems on any body but moreso on the t-top cars. A cage puts every body on a level playing field!

 

[madhat]

I read about a guy w/ ttops who launched at 18#s and it bent the car enough to where the ttops actually flipped up in the center. I think he had like a 1.6 60' time...so just dont get traction and you should be ok....

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Buy as many frame braces as possible and when you start getting down low in E.T. its time to cage it up.

I personally would buy a moon roof GN if I had to do it all over again.

 

[madhat]

you know, the squeaks and rattles aren't too bad... ...and I just have underhood and rear seat braces...my problem was the fact that I spent all this money on weather stripping and it still leaks! But, mine is street driven. I like the moon roof idea too, but its nice to be able to open up the whole top...

 

[Robbie-87plz]

Thanks for the replies gents. The reason I'm asking is because I'm interested in purchasing a t-top. The current owner stated that it leaks, not sure if the seals are redone if it will be sufficient. The car ran a 13.6 with a 2.0 60 ft so I'm presuming that it wasn't hard enough to 'tweak' it. Out of curiosity how much are seals and where would I be able to acquire some? Thanks much for your help.

 

[madhat]

DO NOT BUY FROM POSTON OR SOFFSEAL! BUY FROM GM(you may have to look under 442) or atleast make sure that the parts you are buying are GM ONLY...the ttop pieces are usually official GM and may cost ~$100 and the long(body) pieces are the parts that you really have to make sure are GM(~$175-200)...otherwise you will have like an inch gap on each side of the ttop like I did until soffseal sent me some extra material for free! I will admit soffseal has a great customer service(I lost my invoice and for some reason I wasnt in the computer and they still helped me out!) but they get their G-body weather stripping from someone else...

 

[Robbie-87plz]

Madhat, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. How do you like your t-top by the way?

 

[madhat]

Actually, I love it, as much as I complain about the car, I love being able to take them off and drive around...I have considered selling it and buying a hardtop, and I think I wouldnt be happy w/ it...I've been in hardtops and its just not the same, but hey,some people like hard tops(my wife wants to get a hardtop WH1) and some people like ttops, and others like the best/worst of both worlds and get a moon roof.

 

[Renthorin]

Love my T-tops. This is my 2nd G-body with T's.

For a weekend warrior I wouldn't have it any othe way.

My car doesn't rattle any more than a solid roof GN but I have all the bushings and bars you can put on one.

I have no leaks either but my seals are still in great condition.

At car shows and cruises I alway hear "sweet.. a GN and T-tops!!!" I bet you never hear anyone say "cool...a hard top"

 

[madhat]

true...true...but, most people just dont realize what I am all together....

 

[Robbie-87plz]

I appreciate the feedback guys. I was wondering if there was anything else that I can be educated about. Thanks for the heads up on the body braces and the bushings idea. Once again, thanks and let me know if you guys think of anything else. Mahalo.

 

[Steve V]

One of the problems with a T top car is rust!!Look over it very carefully before you buy,under carpet,floorpan,take off the tops look up by the windsheild and under the weatherstrips. Rust is no fun to fix.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

I just noticed you are in Hawaii, you HAVE to get a T Top GN then.

Here is something you might want to keep in your notes of things to get if T Tops go bad.
www.gbodyparts.com/restoration.htm

By the way, the best braces I ever bought were the triangle bars under the rad and the big radiator brace that goes under it in conjunction with the triangle. Doing 100 on the highway was much smoother.

 

[Robbie-87plz]

Dr Booster, I believe the long bar under the front end came from the Gran Prix if I'm not mistaken. I'm thinking I could salvage the cross brace from a Monte and the long bar from a Gran Prix... Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Thank guys...

 

[Sam Colalillo]

I love the T-tops, take the tops out on a nice day and listen to that Turbo Singing, it’s awesome!

I am the guy that had the T-tops pop up out of the car during a launch. My wife drives the car and I tune it.

I had just installed 28” tall Hoosier soft compound slicks, had Torco 118 octane race fuel in the tank, and a tune up that included 24 lbs of boost (was running the car on 19 & 20 all year long). I had my wife launch on 18lbs of boost. Next the center section of the roof panel that holds the T –tops onto the car twisted and broke. Then that center section flew off the car. This caused the tops to fly up in the center, thank God the A post and B post T-top catches held the other end of the tops in place. As soon as this happened my wife let out of the throttle and was a little shaken up. I was Dissapointed because I was positive this was the tune up that was going to give me 11 second bragging rights.

I will be installing a roll bar into the car after I finish the current project I am working on. Attached is a link to a photo of our Buick launching at Norwalk. You can see the car is twisting up pretty good even with 30 lbs. in the right rear air bag.
http://www.monninengineering.com/images/Colalillo/buick_wheelup3.jpg

These T-tops survived many 12-14 lb launches with low 1.7 and high 1.68 60 foot times.

I replaced all the weather stripping when I had the car repainted. This was four years ago, and I used all GM parts.
Here are the part numbers:

* 20201221 list price = 76.40 weather strip
(T-top weather strip up A post and around and down to B post)
* 20201220 list price = 76.40 weather strip
(T-top weather strip up A post and around and down to B post)
* 20217186 list price = 40.70 weather strip asm
(T-top weather strip along the edge that mates to window)
* 20217187 list price = 76.40 weather strip
(T-top weather strip along the edge that mates to window)
* 20139617 S/str list price price = 19.00 each, and you will need 2 of them
(Foam seal that is mounted to the car roof and is
Shaped like an “L” when installed)
* 202011820 list price = 106.40 weather strip
(Door weather striping)
* 202011821 list price = 106.40 weather strip
(Door weather striping)
*25558394 list price price = 34.78 weatherstr
(Trunk seal)


I did some bargaining at the GM garage and got all the above-mentioned items for under 400 dollars, but that was about four years ago. All the parts fit great,

hope this helps.

 

[Robbie-87plz]

Now that's a great story...My "intent" for now is just to acquire an intercooled GN in Hawaii and get her running decent on the street, I'll be whipped if rice pulls up next to me and I get my butt handed to me by some over stickered under powered self propelled lawmower.

 

[JToups386]

Having owned 2 Olds Cutlass and 2 Grand Nat's with T-Tops, I can say one thing for sure --- They ALL leak! It's just the general nature of GM T-Top cars in the late 70's and 80's. They were all prone to leaking, no matter how well you took care of them. I had even figured out little tricks over time to help with it, but if you're in a high pressure wash tunnel, or hurricane style rain, you're gonna' get some drippage, no matter what.

I've known many folks w/ T-Top GN's running very well w/o any top failures. I'm sure a sub 1.4 60' time might strain them, but mine has never had any problems with low 1.6 60's to date.
Although, by default, if you're running those lower 60 foot times you'll need a cage anyway per the NHRA track safety rules, because you'll obviously be in the 11-second range.

Anyway, my GN is used for race purposes, yet, I wouldn't give up my T-Tops! Nothing better than popping them on a sunny day and cruising. Also, keep in mind, the T-Top cars have additional bracing built in to help keep them rigid.
As someone else mentioned, be sure to look for rust issues. Especially around/behind the top seals. If someone didn't maintain it, there's always a chance of some hidden rust not visible at first glance...

 

[madhat]

70s and 80s ttops? My dad's 2002 Z28 would occasionally drip and it had less than 10000 miles on it! Hey Sam, thanks for replying I couldnt remeber who did it, but I knew it was someone on the board....I have faith in you....you WILL run 11s