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Ok some preliminary stuff......I just weighed the block on my shipping scale with the caps and studs on it, it weghs 102.7#
The block needs to be deburred,drainback holes have to be drilled in the lifter valley, rear cap modified for oil drainback, some porting in the oil pump pickup passage, probably will need to be decked, it has to be honed, need to make an oil pickup and a set of engine mounts, you have to use an odd fire type cam (billet roller) or machine a different type of oil galley plug.
I would fully expect to do this stuff on any aftermarket block, it is a nice solid looking piece that requires normal prep work.
 
Or, if you're going on center dry sump like me, then deburr, bore and hone, and maybe deck it if it needs it. I made mounts in an hour. Weight savings is minimal...maybe 25# less than a production block, 40# less than a Stage 2. What you get is LOTS of aluminum to stiffen and strengthen the cylinders and mains, lots of rebuilds if you start at 3.800", and a significantly better oiling system. GB
 
Ive done a aftermarket SBC dart block and they always need machining. but a new block shouldnt need to be decked! I would imagine the deck height doesnt come oversized why take the chance of making the decks unsquare!seems odd to deck a new block
 
Originally posted by EightSecV6
Ok some preliminary stuff......I just weighed the block on my shipping scale with the caps and studs on it, it weghs 102.7#
The block needs to be deburred,drainback holes have to be drilled in the lifter valley, rear cap modified for oil drainback, some porting in the oil pump pickup passage, probably will need to be decked, it has to be honed, need to make an oil pickup and a set of engine mounts, you have to use an odd fire type cam (billet roller) or machine a different type of oil galley plug.
I would fully expect to do this stuff on any aftermarket block, it is a nice solid looking piece that requires normal prep work.

What would the customer expect to pay for these services---ball-park?
 
The block needs to be decked after the sleeves are pressed in. Apparently different engine builders have different opinions on how to do this, so my guess is that that's why TA doesn't do it for you.
 
So will I need a cam with just an odd fire nose?Are all the billet rollers odd fire nosed?Can you even get an even fire cam with the odd fire nose?I thought all the stock parts could be used if wanted,not that this is a problem,but what exactly would it take to install a regular EF cam in this block?
 
Sorry if my post mislead some people..... ANY aftermarket ALUMINUM block will more than likely have to be decked after the torque plate has been installed to perform the finish hone.
The EF cam can and IS ground on an OF blank. I ASSume you could use a hydraulic flat tappet cam in the block if you were willing to fabricate front galley plugs.
Please pardon my arrogance, if you are spending $3500 on a block, you are not going to be concerned about the balance it will take to finish it. Stick with your builder and listen to what he has to say!
 
square block

Im not a machinist but I was under the impression that when milling the decks its hard to get all four corners to be exactly the same height from the crank center line unless using a CNC. THe dart block I ordered wasnt alum. and came to exact height as stock,any milling would lower the deck and shorten your quench. Are you just looking to get the correct finish after the sleves are in? I quess your right about nit caring if you have 3500 just to buy one.
 
Originally posted by ILBCNU6
The oil pick-up tubes come with the block



Nope.....but I understand they will be available as well as the mounts but not yet unless that has changed. Anyone have an update?
 
ILBCNU6,

Gotta ask.. what kinda of $$$$ Variances are there between virgin block and prepped block as you are getting?
 
Let me preface this by saying that I applaud everyone involved with the development of the TA block. Nonetheless, the TA block is, in my perception, a replacement for the Stage block. At this juncture, Stage stuff amounts to a chinese menu that has gotten to the bottom of the wok.

It will cost the same to build the TA block as a Stage block, because the block, crank, rods, pistons etc. required in either case cost the same.

Figure $15,000, give or take, for the motor when all is said and done. If I'm wrong, maybe you'll have enough left over for a movie, a bucket of popcorn, and a soda.

If you can't cough up the cash, then be satified to run low 11's, or be prepared to break a bunch of 109's. That's just the way it is with TRs.

I was re-reading the article in GMHTP on Jane's car last night. Going from 11.2 to 10.2 is a very, very expensive proposition...

:D
 
I agree with what Strikeagle is saying....the TA block was not designed as an alternative to an inexpensive 109 block....it is intended as a replacement for the dwindling supply of Stage blocks with perhaps more potential....it "could" also be a less expensive and more reliable building block for a less than all out race engine because of the ability to use the stock parts

anyone who believes any of this is inexpensive or that work is not required to finish things is misguided.
 
Originally posted by strikeeagle
.......It will cost the same to build the TA block as a Stage block, because the block, crank, rods, pistons etc. required in either case cost the same.

Figure $15,000, give or take, for the motor when all is said and done. ....If you can't cough up the cash, then be satified to run low 11's, or be prepared to break a bunch of 109's.
:D

Let's put things in perspective when discussing costs. I know of a couple stock block motors with the $15k price tag.:)

If you start with a 109 block and do steel caps and girdle and have it installed properly expect to spend ~$1500. This then makes the TA block a $2k increase over the 109, but still the 109 does not have all the other features and strength.

When a 8-900 HP build is expensed out, it is not out of line for the short block price. Block $3500, crank $1000 forged, $2200 billet, pistons $650, rods $700, machine work, labor $1000. So for under $7000, this is even less than some Chev's and Mopar's will run.

The initial concept of the TA block is to accept stock 3.8 internals and all other stock bolt-ons. I do know some buyers will do this initially, and up grade as their budget allows.

Certainly the TA block is NOT a mainstream item, but an alternative and future supply for Buick V-6 performance. :D

As a side note, not all Stage blocks will readily accept stock-type oiling system. This could add $1000 or more in mods and/or parts to make it "streetable.
 
Will the TA block require a torque plate for finish hone? I understand compensating for distortion with heads torqued down, just can't help but wonder if that would be an issue with the dry sleave design and beefy block.

tyvm,
Tom
 
pricing

Originally posted by Nick Micale
Let's put things in perspective when discussing costs. I know of a couple stock block motors with the $15k price tag.:)

If you start with a 109 block and do steel caps and girdle and have it installed properly expect to spend ~$1500. This then makes the TA block a $2k increase over the 109, but still the 109 does not have all the other features and strength.

When a 8-900 HP build is expensed out, it is not out of line for the short block price. Block $3500, crank $1000 forged, $2200 billet, pistons $650, rods $700, machine work, labor $1000. So for under $7000, this is even less than some Chev's and Mopar's will run.

The initial concept of the TA block is to accept stock 3.8 internals and all other stock bolt-ons. I do know some buyers will do this initially, and up grade as their budget allows.

Certainly the TA block is NOT a mainstream item, but an alternative and future supply for Buick V-6 performance. :D

As a side note, not all Stage blocks will readily accept stock-type oiling system. This could add $1000 or more in mods and/or parts to make it "streetable.

We are currently building a 2000+ hp small block chevy...here is what some of that stuff goes for:

Used ex-cup rocket bowtie block setup for dry sump: $1000

New billet sonny bryant 4" stroke crankshaft: $2800+

Oliver parobolic I con rods: $1550

Custom Venolia pistons: $1130

Proprietary rings: $350

bearings: $225

Jesel belt drive, used: $925

machine work: $2200

Splayed valve GMPP heads: $1550 EACH (X2) and DO NOT INCLUDE GUIDES OR SEATS!!!:eek:

Ferrea valves: $450

Jesel rocker system: $2450

custom jesel pushrods: $145

Isky lifters: $400

custom billet solid roller cam: $450

* right here you have basically a sbc long block with unported heads, no oil pan, sheetmetal intake, or dry sump oiling..... all for the discounted price of : $17,175.00 We have been collecting parts for this motor for over three years....especially since $20K isnt something you stumble over in a few days.... We expect to invest over $35K into the running motor between turbos and oiling system(remember this is ALL MATERIALS!!! we do our own machine work, fabrication etc...)

We definitely did not pick a CHEAP hobby! Its the nature of the beast!:cool: :cool: :cool:
 
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