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TA Performance Race Headers cross over headaches

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Toby_Goodmk

Test Fit officianto
Joined
Dec 9, 2011
Messages
1,851
ok, I am pulling my hair out and questioning WTF to do next with getting the crossover V bands to seal up. I have tried about everything. Here is what I have done so far.

These are NEW headers.

* Multiple sets of TA gaskets, they blow out and leak.
* New V-band clamp on the side that is leaking.
* Stainless (no RTV) RJC gaskets, the same connection still leaks
* Ultra Copper on TA gaskets, still leaks
* Ultra Copper on RJC gaskets, still leaks
* verified metal stock coming up out of the leaking side is not bottoming out against header V flange.
* Leak is DEFINITELY coming from this connection and verified
* Allowed RTV to setup 48 hours

I have a feeling that the Vband is not true, which sucks balls, since I dropped $1100 on a set of headers. If I have the surfaces machined flat (which is BS) now the supplied V band clamps may not have the correct apex distance inside the band???


If anyone has further experience with these damn things let me know what you did to get them to seal.
 
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Do the lips touch or is there a gap? They should be touching. I know mine were a pita. I had to really work on the slip joint to get the vband flanges to line up.
 
I cut all flanges off of one set and replaced them.


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I have installed may TA race headers, and they can be a PIA when fitting them since blocks and heads are usually machined, so tolerances, fitment and gaskets always varies between applications .

The procedure I use is to install the headers and leave one or both headers loose, and then fit the crossover pipe on both sides. I then tighten the bolts a little at a time until they are seated.

The car is started and run to operating temp, and then do a final tightening.

After a couple of heat cycles I again check/tighten all the bolts.
 
Do the lips touch or is there a gap? They should be touching. I know mine were a pita. I had to really work on the slip joint to get the vband flanges to line up.


My slip joint is no longer a slip joint since it was leaking too. I had it welded, and it lines up perfectly to the Vbands on both sides, before we had it welded we allowed for gasket thickness and the headers were torqued down, so Ill be damned if I know.
 
I have installed may TA race headers, and they can be a PIA when fitting them since blocks and heads are usually machined, so tolerances, fitment and gaskets always varies between applications .

The procedure I use is to install the headers and leave one or both headers loose, and then fit the crossover pipe on both sides. I then tighten the bolts a little at a time until they are seated.

The car is started and run to operating temp, and then do a final tightening.

After a couple of heat cycles I again check/tighten all the bolts.


yea, I wish it were that easy this time or I would do it. I am thinking of taking it to another welding specialist here and having him cut the V bands off and re-do them.
 
A flex connection w/ the correct inner liner??
86TLS 002.jpg
 
A flex connection w/ the correct inner liner??View attachment 293674

Quite possible. I have a call into Rob Lewis from Rogue Race Cars, he does Fiscus exhaust work. I am close to being done F'ing around with it. The flanges were lined up VERY well before we tacked it, so alignment "shouldnt" be the cause. The only other thing I think I may attempt is to separate the slip joint, attach the Vband clamps and tighten them, then tack the slip joint in a couple spots, then remove and weld tight. If it still leaks, its got to be a bad flange surface.
 
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Great, I recently purchased the 1100$ ones for my motor build. Yet another problem to look foward to as if I haven't had enough setbacks.
 
Great, I recently purchased the 1100$ ones for my motor build. Yet another problem to look foward to as if I haven't had enough setbacks.


They (the issues) happen to all of us. The slip joint at the crossover is necessary as one block and heads may not be the same as the other, but if we find that the V band surfaces are not true, by replacing them and it works, ill look very down on spending that amount of money on new headers that are not straight. I would do your due-diligence and have them checked before you install them, and use nick's methods of letting the headers and joints come together for a couple heat cycles, then re-tighten.

I will add this other bit of experience I had when I installed mine. The crossover was too long in my case. While I was lining up the crosspver, the distance between each header connection was too wide. The male and female slip joint connection bottomed out and would not allow a shorter distance. The only way to make the distance between both points was to shorten the length of one side. I would be VERY interested to see if others had this same issue. Also, check the inside of the headers, I removed a ton of slag, oil, shavings and dirt from being made. I used a couple cans of brake clean.
 
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Good advice, very much appreciated. If I have to weld or do any machining that's fine. At least I know what to be prepared for.
 
I trued the ta race headers and only used rtv sealant.havent had any issues since and have a lot of time and no leaks.the flanges did need it although brand new.im very happy with the headers but have had my fair share of gasket failures and do not run them them anymore.they do need massaging to be installed but they haven't been off the car since I put them on.
 
I trued the ta race headers and only used rtv sealant.havent had any issues since and have a lot of time and no leaks.the flanges did need it although brand new.im very happy with the headers but have had my fair share of gasket failures and do not run them them anymore.they do need massaging to be installed but they haven't been off the car since I put them on.

Good info. You have a machine shop do the work? And did the band clamps still work? I am worried about having them trued up, then the band would be too wide.

Also, when they trued up the band did they remove it from the pipe, then re-weld it? If they did not remove the Vband, how did they machine it with the metal stock that sticks up from the Vband?
 
Good info. You have a machine shop do the work? And did the band clamps still work? I am worried about having them trued up, then the band would be too wide.

Also, when they trued up the band did they remove it from the pipe, then re-weld it? If they did not remove the Vband, how did they machine it with the metal stock that sticks up from the Vband?
No the header flanges needed a hit on the machine,I had no problem with the crossover pipe flanges.
 
Wow!!I guess I'm lucky.Im using SCE cooper header gasket and I have no problem with alignment or leaks.

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21f126f030ee68fb04b2381661a3acdf.jpg
 
Wow!!I guess I'm lucky.Im using SCE cooper header gasket and I have no problem with alignment or leaks.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
21f126f030ee68fb04b2381661a3acdf.jpg


yea, some are lucky I guess, want to trade :)? Mine are fine as long as it is normal driving, get in the throttle....spits.
 
Seems like a hit and miss type of situation. I guess I have a set that was made on a Wednesday. lol, No issues with leaks... Let's hope they stay that way after I cut into them to make a twin scroll setup with 2 wastegates.
 
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