You will be working it hard to get there. MFS 6766 is worth quite a bit at that pointWhen I get everything sorted out, I'm shooting for over 600whp with a 62mm inducer.
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SignUp Now!You will be working it hard to get there. MFS 6766 is worth quite a bit at that pointWhen I get everything sorted out, I'm shooting for over 600whp with a 62mm inducer.
Just bought the 6265 I think I'll have to settle for whatever I can get out of it Power wise. My wife would kill me if I bought another turbo.You will be working it hard to get there. MFS 6766 is worth quite a bit at that point
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Alky...I have a TE44 with stock engine(cam,head,etc), stock DP and MAF with these upgrades: TBP converter, GN1 Slic, 42lbs injectors with TT chip
the trans shift slow I will rebuilt it this winter, i'm pretty sure I will gain at least 0.1sec on the 1/4, so far my best is 12.16@108mph at 23psi
I'm not sure what would be the most beneficial change, a 3" down pipe or a better MAF, I don't want to raise the boost too much, my goal is to run steady 11.70 if it's possible, I do not want to hack this but I've read all the post and still don't know what to do, I think a new MAF would be the best change??
Raising manifold pressure will net more than everything else if the tune is rightI have a TE44 with stock engine(cam,head,etc), stock DP and MAF with these upgrades: TBP converter, GN1 Slic, 42lbs injectors with TT chip
the trans shift slow I will rebuilt it this winter, i'm pretty sure I will gain at least 0.1sec on the 1/4, so far my best is 12.16@108mph at 23psi
I'm not sure what would be the most beneficial change, a 3" down pipe or a better MAF, I don't want to raise the boost too much, my goal is to run steady 11.70 if it's possible, I do not want to hack this but I've read all the post and still don't know what to do, I think a new MAF would be the best change??
I'm using race fuel and I do not want to install an alky kit, I use Fuse ignitor 116 mixed with Shell 91 with great resultAlky...
Raising manifold pressure will net more than everything else if the tune is right
Stock MAF is plenty adequate for 11.70s assuming its working correctly. As Bison stated just turn the boost up and adjust the tune accordingly. Only 23 lbs of boost is conservative on 116 race gas right? I've never used race gas before. You already have what you need to run 11.70sThanks!
A 3.5" LS1 MAF is enough??
116 will likely slow the car downStock MAF is plenty adequate for 11.70s assuming its working correctly. As Bison stated just turn the boost up and adjust the tune accordingly. Only 23 lbs of boost is conservative on 116 race gas right? I've never used race gas before. You already have what you need to run 11.70s
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Stock MAF is plenty adequate for 11.70s assuming its working correctly. As Bison stated just turn the boost up and adjust the tune accordingly. Only 23 lbs of boost is conservative on 116 race gas right? I've never used race gas before. You already have what you need to run 11.70s
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25 with Alky. I ran an 11.88 stock long block, converter, 42.5# injectors and Alky TT chip. With a better intercooler I probably could've gotten to 11.70. If my car did weigh 3800 lbs w driver I probably would've gotten there with just stock IC.116 mixed with shell vpower91, I mixed it to 105
I thought 23lbs with a te44 on a stock block would be the max
116 will likely slow the car down
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Brian...can you give an explanation why? Thanks.
Plenty of threads around the internet explaining it. It's come up on speed talk before. Same reason your regular daily driver car that runs best on regular 87 octane slows down on higher octaneBrian...can you give an explanation why? Thanks.
Burn rate of the fuel. If a car is tuned for 87 and you put 93 in it or 100, it takes longer to burn the higher octane in a car tuned for 87, therefore the location of peak pressure moves and you don't get optimal mechanical advantage on the power stroke. This may vary, but I believe you want LPP to be 14* after TDC, that's where you get optimal mechanical advantage.Brian...can you give an explanation why? Thanks.
Burn rate of the fuel. If a car is tuned for 87 and you put 93 in it or 100, it takes longer to burn the higher octane in a car tuned for 87, therefore the location of peak pressure moves and you don't get optimal mechanical advantage on the power stroke. This may vary, but I believe you want LPP to be 14* after TDC, that's where you get optimal mechanical advantage.
Maybe I can sell my 6265, it has about 1000 miles on it and it hasn't been pushed passed 18psi, gauge, so far. I said I wanted a MFS 6766 before my build started and I was talked out of it.You will be working it hard to get there. MFS 6766 is worth quite a bit at that point
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Stock ecu and internal wastegate better be safe than sorry and go with less turbo. Aftermarket ecu and good external wastegate the sky is more of less the limit.Maybe I can sell my 6265, it has about 1000 miles on it and it hasn't been pushed passed 18psi, gauge, so far. I said I wanted a MFS 6766 before my build started and I was talked out of it.