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TD roller rocker pre-load

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Also there is a way when you rotate the engine most of the lifters are down when you tighten the rocker mounts so that the amount you have to pull the shaft mounts down is less. The six mark bolts are referred to as grade 8, A 3 mark would be grade 5 and no marks a grade 2 or peanut butter :). METRICS are classed by 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9 these are the common ones. metric 8.8 =usa grade 5, 10.9 is close to usa grade 8. I know you did not ask this but thought I would share it.
 
yup, got them torqued down with new grad 8 bolts, now going through the firing order setting the preload
 
OK, looked at their website, adjuster 7/16-20 x 1.130 with shoulder 5/16 cup. Adjuster jam nut 9/16 hex, 7/16-20.
 
lots of tutorials for setting the valves.

basically you adjust valves when they are closed.. loosen the adjuster nut and let the internal spring in the lifter raise the plunger to the top.

slowly tighten the adjuster to take up all the play, then tighten it another "amount". Everyone has their opinion on how far to go.

this puts the lifter in "preload", if the intake is off you can see a gap between the plunger and the snap ring.

Make sense?

Bob
Nice description. You will know when to lock the jam nut when the pushrod can't move vertically, but you can spin the push rod between your fingers. This does work. Add 0.001 to subsequent adjustments if the coating is worn off
 
Nice description. You will know when to lock the jam nut when the pushrod can't move vertically, but you can spin the push rod between your fingers. This does work. Add 0.001 to subsequent adjustments if the coating is worn off
however this you describe above is 0 lash, the further you adjust as in my case 1/2 turn+ = .030 preload. I was wrong about needing .050.
 
How did .030 work out for you?
 
How did .030 work out for you?
Starts well, idles very nice and smooth. I havent driven to the point where my temps are high to see if it lessens the noise. Now I have eliminated if the preload was not set correctly. I have also retorqued knock sensor. So a few things down to see if the KS sees less noise. Should be driving this weekend after I seal up the oil pan....again.....ugh..it was my fault...damn right stuff hit the flywheel going in and messed up my bead...obviously...
 
Weber told me the Morels need at least .030 and they like .040 to .050.

The Comps I had before were quietest at .035.


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These are lifters that Dave Husek sells which is a hybrid 885 with a little more travel for street manners. The good thing is after hours of figuring out how to do this quickly (hot air) I got it down to 1.5 hours from tear down, adj, put together and can mess with the preload going forward.
 
These are lifters that Dave Husek sells which is a hybrid 885 with a little more travel for street manners. The good thing is after hours of figuring out how to do this quickly (hot air) I got it down to 1.5 hours from tear down, adj, put together and can mess with the preload going forward.
Just one thing. T & D told me that the oiler/ adjusters are sent out witrh about 1/4 turn (0.0125) below the rocker body. If you adjust too far down (like more than about 1/2 a thread to a thread) your measurements are off. Turning the oiler / adjuster too far down restricts oil flow to the fulcrum and follower.
 
Don't use the bolts T&D sends with their rocker arms. They are too short and don't engage enough threads in the rocker stands. many guys have pulled threads out of the rocker stands using too short a bolt. I recommend using a stud that threads to the bottom of the threaded hole. TA performance sells a stud kit for our application.......or you can make your own studs: buy Grade 8 bolts with full threaded bodies and cut off the heads. You can get them at McMaster Carr and you can also get 12 point flange nuts there too.
 
Don't use the bolts T&D sends with their rocker arms. They are too short and don't engage enough threads in the rocker stands. many guys have pulled threads out of the rocker stands using too short a bolt. I recommend using a stud that threads to the bottom of the threaded hole. TA performance sells a stud kit for our application.......or you can make your own studs: buy Grade 8 bolts with full threaded bodies and cut off the heads. You can get them at McMaster Carr and you can also get 12 point flange nuts there too.
Dave, solid advice as usual. Bottom tap those puppies first.
 
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