Thank you Scanmaster - KR of 15?

NorEaster

Member
I recently had cat issues with my car, and now that is all squared away (punched out) car pulls great.

I bought the Scanmaster while my car was running like crap, so I never got a good reading, but on the way home from the mechanic last night, I saw 15.2 deg retard on a 3rd gear pull, so I quickly backed out. Car seemed to pull great, but it wont for long with a KR like that. When I got home, here are the readings from the 2.1 at idle:

AF: 03
L8: 21
BAT: 13.9
INT: 134 - 149
BL: 150
CLT: 193
ATS: 88
R: 950
TPS: .44
IAC: 00
CC: 0 per count, stuck on 180 (must be junk, it is a purple wire O2 sensor)
MAL: 00

Recal: O2: 226 KR: 15.2 !!!!!!!!!!!

What do I need to do to get this number under control? Even a first gear stab I got 9 degs of retard. Please help me on all numbers (still new to the world of TRs) but that KR is scary.
 
Forgot this too

Fuel pressure at idle with vacuum line unhooked from stock regulator was around 35 psi, what should it be? I know i need a AFR.
 
I recently had cat issues with my car, and now that is all squared away (punched out) car pulls great.

I bought the Scanmaster while my car was running like crap, so I never got a good reading, but on the way home from the mechanic last night, I saw 15.2 deg retard on a 3rd gear pull, so I quickly backed out. Car seemed to pull great, but it wont for long with a KR like that. When I got home, here are the readings from the 2.1 at idle:

AF: 03
L8: 21
BAT: 13.9
INT: 134 - 149
BL: 150
CLT: 193
ATS: 88
R: 950
TPS: .44
IAC: 00
CC: 0 per count, stuck on 180 (must be junk, it is a purple wire O2 sensor)
MAL: 00

Recal: O2: 226 KR: 15.2 !!!!!!!!!!!

What do I need to do to get this number under control? Even a first gear stab I got 9 degs of retard. Please help me on all numbers (still new to the world of TRs) but that KR is scary.



BLM is pegged. Usually means a bad exhaust or vacuum leak.

IAC needs adjusting. 20 is the standard.

AF is reading low. What chip. What maf?
 
Should be..

Fuel pressure at idle with vacuum line unhooked from stock regulator was around 35 psi, what should it be? I know i need a AFR.

set to 43-45, line off.
w/ that stock reg and the line on, you likely had something near/at 30psi...Way short. Definitely time for the AFR. What's the rest of the fuel system consist of??
May need a pump change, a hot wire kit. [If not already there.]
Something going on w/ the IAC, too. Should be in the 20-40 range at idle. [Vac leaks??]
BL that high is a problem, too. Adding fuel.

Sounds like time for a fuel system rebuild, to me.
 
set to 43-45, line off.
w/ that stock reg and the line on, you likely had something near/at 30psi...Way short. Definitely time for the AFR. What's the rest of the fuel system consist of??
May need a pump change, a hot wire kit. [If not already there.]
Something going on w/ the IAC, too. Should be in the 20-40 range at idle. [Vac leaks??]
BL that high is a problem, too. Adding fuel.

Sounds like time for a fuel system rebuild, to me.

All is stock, I have a hot wire kit, but not installed, waiting on buying a AFPR.

What about KR that high, would these issues cause that much of a knock?
 
All is stock, I have a hot wire kit, but not installed, waiting on buying a AFPR.

What about KR that high, would these issues cause that much of a knock?

Yes

Do NOT go WOT again until you address your fuel issues unless you want to buy a new engine.
1-Turn DOWN the boost
2-Install that Hot wire kit
3-Install an upgraded fuel pump
4-Install an AFR
5-Get a new chip.
Good luck
 
thank you

Yes

Do NOT go WOT again until you address your fuel issues unless you want to buy a new engine.
1-Turn DOWN the boost
2-Install that Hot wire kit
3-Install an upgraded fuel pump
4-Install an AFR
5-Get a new chip.
Good luck


Def not going to go WOT.

1- Cannot turn down boost, all stock, boost gauge says 14 psi (Autometer ES)

2- Own the hotwire kit, need to install
3-340? whats the easiest, best?
4-Again, whats the best for the money?
5-TT? Is is worth getting a chip with a car that knocks this hard all stock?


So, is it safe to assume that if I get my vacuum leaks under control, and upgrade the fuel system, then knock should go away.
 
Def not going to go WOT.

1- Cannot turn down boost, all stock, boost gauge says 14 psi (Autometer ES)

2- Own the hotwire kit, need to install
3-340? whats the easiest, best?
4-Again, whats the best for the money?
5-TT? Is is worth getting a chip with a car that knocks this hard all stock?


So, is it safe to assume that if I get my vacuum leaks under control, and upgrade the fuel system, then knock should go away.

1-So stay off the pedal
2-INSTALL it
3-i have a 340M but its an old one, before they started making crap - So do your research or some else can chime in.
4-Call any one of the vendors they'll hook you up.
5-i use the TTchip its plug-and-play and Erik answers questions
No way to know until you address this stuff first. But even if you didn't have the KR issues it would still be a good idea to change chips.
 
You need to install the hotwire, a 340, an adustable regulator, and a TT chip. To answer your question it's totally worth it to upgrade the chip on a stock car.
 
Yup...First thing I did with my car was Injectors..Chip..AFPR...and pump/hotwire...no use in messing around with 24 year old parts...that's just a explosion waiting to happen....:cool:
 
BL 150 is serious. Your washing down the cylinders, washing down your oil, destroying your motor every second its run under this condition.

KR is the least of your problems.

Better get that oil changed pronto... and better get that BL number down pronto.. or you'll tear out the bearings, wipe the cam, kill the turbo, etc etc etc.

Stock fpr is 37 psi line off. Stock chip only needs 37 PSI line off. Your IAC at zero + high BL number= huge vacuum leak..
 
Thank you

BL 150 is serious. Your washing down the cylinders, washing down your oil, destroying your motor every second its run under this condition.

KR is the least of your problems.

Better get that oil changed pronto... and better get that BL number down pronto.. or you'll tear out the bearings, wipe the cam, kill the turbo, etc etc etc.

Stock fpr is 37 psi line off. Stock chip only needs 37 PSI line off. Your IAC at zero + high BL number= huge vacuum leak..

Thank you for response.

I am a stickler for checking my oil everytime before I drive the car (I also do the smell test) and it still is oil. I will start digging for a vacuum leak. Poor car is all orig. and I will just start over with her.
 
Whilst upgrading fuel system, get the TT 5.6 street chip. That allows you to adjust fuel & timing. I imagine your old chip has too much timing in it for todays poor octane fuels.
 
No laptop needed. You simply need a scanmaster to show you the numbers and you adjust via the ignition being on and depressing the pedal. Check out the instructions onTurotweak website. They have installation/instruction sheets for their chips.
Adjustment is very straightforward, knowing what you are doing with the tune is another matter all together as i'm constantly finding out from this good forum.
All the best!
 
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