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The best solid roller lifters for street driven stg II

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SPEEDSTAR

New Member
Joined
May 30, 2001
Messages
278
Which solid roller lifters would work best in my mostly street driven stg II motor. My machinist said that they would need pressurized oiling to the rollers. I remember seeing a post on this a while back and did a search and no luck. The thread said something about a new lifter made just for street . Does anyone know anything about them, who makes them , how much are they, anybody using them?


Thanks Jeff
 
Well you may be sol if you need offset lifters. The Comp Endurex isn't available in offset. At least with Comp, maybe Crower or Isky or others have something more street friendly. We just wound up putting the regular Comp solids with offset in mine. Hope they last awhile on the street...

TurboTR
 
I use the standard Comp lifters in my car. I drive it to work quite often and out to dinner a couple times a week without any problems with the lifters. The valve springs are another matter.

SPEEDSTAR: Where are you located on FL? I was suprised to find a stage 2 car that I didn't know about. How fast is it?
 
newest guy to go stg II

Cal,
My stg II is an on going project. The motor is in the machine shop right now, and its at the top of my list of things to finish. I hope to have it put together by the end of the year. How fast..........I think it will run a 9.70 to 9.90, what do you think .There are no 1/4 mile tracks close by ,only an 1/8 mile track 10 miles away so I will be racin it there. I talked to you at the nats . I asked you about your solid roller lifters being so quiet . I"m in Milton , thats in northwest Fl..........so the standard comp lifters will work alright or should I put the endurex lifters in it. Will it need offset lifters .

Thanks Jeff

Seeing all the nice looking and FAAASSSST. stgII cars at the nats was real inspiring and a huge motivation to get mine going
 
IMO Isky lifters are about the best available, they are offset and are longer which means a shorter pushrod for longevity, plus the ability to add a rev kit. I broke 2 comp cams lifters before, the old style and the new style but that was on the race car which I'm sure was stretched much further than you would stretch a street engine. I would use the Comp Pac-Alloy springs on a street engine, a race engine is an entirely different matter (as Cal stated)
Bill
 
Solid Rollers on the street

I've got a Stage II motor in a Kit Cobra. No Turbo just a 4 barrel carb.

I'm running a Reed Cam with ISKY offset roller lifters and a rev kit. Motor pulls hard to 8,000 RPM and car runs 10.8's.

I talked to Isky and they said that the problem with running solid rollers on the street is that they don't get oiled very well at idle and if you float the valves it "ding's" the tiny rollers and will quickly trash the roller (and motor). They told me run it no more that 4,000 miles. They do make a pressure fed roller (new) with the offset. They believe it would go 8,000 miles. Another way to go is with a Schubeck cam and lifters (not rollers but not solids either). My plan is to simply pull the 4 barrel manifold and change the lifters to the newer type Isky's and then send them to Isky for a rebuild every 8k miles.

Regards,
 
Additionally,

I've heard roller lifter life expectancy is strongly related to cam profile -- particularly the rate of lift -- also taking into account matching springs needed.

If that's so, a "street roller" profile (say, Comp or Crane) and corresponding (softer) springs should result in longer lifter life, compared to an aggressive race grind.

True???
 
Street roller

I guess I'm not sure of how high the RPM would be for a Turbo/Stage II setup. On my normally aspirated motor the RPM is the key to the power. If the Turbo's don't rev real high why run Solid Roller lifters at all? Hydraulics would do fine if the RPM were lower.

As far as Springs go my seat pressure is 210 and over the nose is 620 which along with an 8000 RPM shift point that there is no way to run any other lifter but solid roller.

Regards,
 
210 and 620 :eek: :eek: :eek:

It's cool reading about this stuff and seeing at the nationals but I think I will continue to be a "spectator"
:D

Butch
 
Originally posted by Butch
210 and 620 :eek: :eek: :eek:

It's cool reading about this stuff and seeing at the nationals but I think I will continue to be a "spectator"
:D

Butch

I'm still putting mine together (going to beat Scott Simpson in 2010. :p ) I'm actually going to run a little more spring pressure than Bob. Looking at the specs for mine, they're 275# @ 2.000", 750# @ 1.200". Anybody got a 4 foot crowbar I can use for a valve spring compressor? :eek:

The turbo motors need more spring for the same RPM levels IMO as they have higher boost pressures trying to force the valve open.

I have the offset Isky solid rollers and a rev kit as well; I have the solid shaft T&Ds so I'm oiling through the rocker shafts down the pushrods as well as a small bit of oil through the lifter galleries (.030" hole). I hope they will run around on the street some as I plan on driving it there. :)
 
Kendall

Yup, those are some spring pressures. I think your right about the Turbo's needing more spring pressure. What kind of RPM is the cam set up for?

I had to make my lifters "wet" also. I used Jesel rocker arms and they needed the oil so we bored the lifter bores and replaced the bronze bushings with steel. The motor uses a relatively mild circle track cam so that it will have some mid range which I'm very happy with. In fact it pulls fine from just over 2,000 to right around 8,000. A friend of mine has a similar cam in a circle track car and he's pulling 8,500 with TI valves. I went back to stainless as I've been told the Titanium valves don't last on the street.

Regards,
 
Thanks guys,
I am going with the comp offsets on the intakes and reg. comp on the ex. and am looking foward to changing them in 3-4000 miles. Hey 4000 miles is a long way:cool: ....... My cam is a 220/220 which I think is a mild roller cam for a stgII 276 c.u. ,so it should be easy on the lifters.As for the springs the cam card said installed seat pressure should be 130 lbs. ,and would float the valves at 6800 rpm, so if I run 20lbs boost , does that lower the seat rate of the spring 20 lbs. :eek: So I installed them at 150 to 155 seat pressure , to compensate for the boost pressure.


THANKS JEFF
 
>IMO Isky lifters are about the best available, they are offset and are longer which means a shorter pushrod for longevity, plus the ability to add a rev kit. I broke 2 comp cams lifters before, the old style and the new style but that was on the race car which I'm

Mmm-kay, I have what I'd bet is a broken lifter already <sigh>. Sometime Sat night the valvetrain developed clatter like it needed adjustment already, odd after only a few days running but no biggie, but removed the valvecover and the #6 exh has about 1/8-1/4" lash clrnc. There's the clatter :-) Something has let go, either cam or lifter. The rockers and pushrod are ok. I have the Comp Super Rollers and a Comp 224 Extreme Street roller profile. So my question is, what makes the Isky's better lifters for a street/strip engine, assuming I have to replace at least one broken lifter now? Engine hasn't been to 7000 rpm yet. Springs are about 225 lbs seat, ~ 550 lbs open. TIA.

PS If the cam is toast I may step up a bit now too. Anyone have input on which to move to, the 232 or the 236? The mill is a 274", GN1R's, comes up excellent as is with a ~ 36-3800 stall, has 16-18 in Hg vacuum at idle currently. TIA.

TurboTR
 
Hmm, well it turns out the rocker stand bolt on the end, under #6 exh had backed out. Everything else looked fine. First time that's ever happened, to mine anyway.

TurboTR
 
Glad to hear it was something simple Turbo TR, I couldn't imagine that you would have lost a cam lobe or a lifter so early in the game, this roller stuff has been bullet proof for me:D
Now go get some impressive time slips;) BTW I updated to the BBC Super Congo valve spring this season:) 7000 is not a problem:eek:
 
I'm glad to hear the roller stuff is working well for you! I keep hearing horror stories. And I've found that spacered stock valve covers are not wide enough for 1.5" dia springs :-)

TurboTR
 
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