the frustration continues !!

TURBOELKY

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2005
I got another distributor, put it in and its doing the same crap. The car fires right up, but has a miss to it, and will not idle. I know know its not the distributor, nor was it the original one. The only other thing that would cause these symptoms: wont idle, sounds like its missing a little, sounds like there is an exhaust leak,: maybe the carburator gasket? I had an old one sitting around, it was kind of hard, maybe it did'nt seal good?

I removed the carb., will pick up a new carb. gasket tomorrow and try that. Other than that, i'm confused. I know the distributor is in correct, all the wires are correct, its getting plenty gas, and I did'nt have any left over bolts after the manifold gasket replacement:D except one BIG one:eek:

this thing is about to be 87'd real quick in a minute!!
 
What's it running for vacuum? should be around 15-16 in, maybe better beings your car wasn't beat on. I'd hate to say this but you might wanna do a compression check. could be a baaaaad caaaaaaam:frown:
 
nah, i've had a few bad cams, and its not a bad cam. And the engine vaccume usually is about 16-18, and on de-celeration its about 23-25. When the old lady who owned it for 15 years drove it around, the turbo was not functional. it had a bolt holding the waste gate open. So it never was really beat on, and I just cruis it at 6 psi. I'm sure now it was the carb gasket, or all the vaccume lines i've mixed up. I'll figure it out if I have to rip all the smog and eccess vac. lines off:eek:
 
A car that old usaully has most vac hoses as hard as a rock. The PVC hose, maps are prone to crack and invisible. I'd replace all of them and re-trace my install steps. :(

A job that involved rarely comes out perfect the first time around. One always misses something. You'll find it....just takes time.:cool:
 
A car that old usaully has most vac hoses as hard as a rock. The PVC hose, maps are prone to crack and invisible. I'd replace all of them and re-trace my install steps. :(

A job that involved rarely comes out perfect the first time around. One always misses something. You'll find it....just takes time.:cool:

:cool: thanks
 
sounds like a bad cam or burnt valve to me

nah, thats a negative. The car ran perfect, has always ran like a champ, never smokes on cold starts, never smokes on long drives. The car was always maintained, and nobody dogs it either. It ran perfect before I tore into it. The only reason I tore into the engine is because the original gm sheetmetal valley pan rust around the water ports in the manifold and started to leak. Besides that, it never had a mechanical problem, and I dont think a cam goes flat, or a valve burns while it sits for a week:eek: if it did, we'd all have flat cams and burnt valves:biggrin: I did let the carb sit out in the moisture, and the distributor. That is why I changed the distributor, but the carb needed a rebuild before I took it off. Besides the leaking manifold gasket, the carb is the only other thing that has given me a slight problem. So i'm going with the carb. going bad. thanks.
 
Try capping off all the vacuum ports on the carb and then see if it idles.

Also, Quadrajets supposedly have problems with leaks around the primary throttle shaft. Some rebuilders fix the leaks with brass bushings.
 
Try capping off all the vacuum ports on the carb and then see if it idles.

I'd go with that. Oh, and just my opinion....leave the carb alone. Don't rebuild it. Make absolutely sure you have exhausted all other troubleshoots.

Also, Quadrajets supposedly have problems with leaks around the primary throttle shaft. Some rebuilders fix the leaks with brass bushings.

That's only if one used it to that point. It is rare. I've bought that kit and I'm still waiting for the OEM shaft to wear out. Has'nt happened yet in any of my carbs. :confused:
 
I'd go with that. Oh, and just my opinion....leave the carb alone. Don't rebuild it. Make absolutely sure you have exhausted all other troubleshoots.



That's only if one used it to that point. It is rare. I've bought that kit and I'm still waiting for the OEM shaft to wear out. Has'nt happened yet in any of my carbs. :confused:

thats what i'm going to do. Cap all the lines off, and go from there. The carb use to act weird like I would be cruising 65 on the freeway, all the sudden would kind of crap out like a back fire, but without the boom. I would have to feather the throttle a few times, but it came right back to life, never stalled or anything like that. Then sometimes it would surge a little, and a few times it flooded. But I found the flooding was do to the air foil closing because its missing a part on the butterfly that keeps it open.
 
Change the ignition coil and ignition module. They're fairly inexpensive, easy to replace and should be part of an emergancy kit anyway.

I changed mine today because I was experiancing the same problem. Problem is gone. Now I have to put them thru my Actron testor to see which one was failing.

The ones I replaced were after-market and better than OEM ones I installed, (cheap). I always have an OEM back-up. There is a slight differance in power. The oem's are not as HP but will always get me out of a jam.

The last time my coil died it did'nt even show symptoms, it just croaked in the middle of nowhere. Luckily I had the spare in the trunk. This is my 3rd in 6-years. Maybe the MSD burns them up quicker?
 
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