This is for the tr pros only basic knowledge already has been applied

Cant get pics bad weather, keyswitch has been on my mind and was wondering if it aint nos part is aftermarket good enough, and will check main harness as soon as I can get to it
 
If it has to be a short how to find? is there any other way than wire by wire? or is there another way to find a short? any suggestions? I know if you want to find a draw disconnect neg batt cable put test light between neg batt post and neg cable and start pulling fuses 1 at a time and if test light goes out you found the circuit that has the draw, I know that little about finding electrical stuff wrong open to all ideas and "litttle secrets", Thanks
 
Unplug the two ecm plugs and look for white and/ or green corrosion .....if so clean with electronic cleaner spray.also wiggle orange ecm wire and fuses to see if engine idle changes.perform underhood harness wiggle test.tap on ecm while running too.
Post up results.
 
how did you checked powers and grounds in the connectors???probed the wire or the terminal??

if you werent careful and probed the terminal you may have spread them open and now causing high resitance in the circuit(s). Seen it way to many times.
 
I acually used in line wire strippers and pulled wire jacket back about a 1/16" and soldered a few inches of wire for troubleshooting on ecm wires I tested (so it would be easy for the future), but I will double check to make sure all is good and no corrosion on connectors at ECM plugs
 
wbzautocustomiz said:
I want to add that as problem happens in park or driving CE light will flash then radio, sm, etc will blink off as if key was turned off
And yes have checked to make sure batt cable isnt shorting out on header, etc
Click to expand...

Tell us a little more about the condition in park. At what point does it start to break up?

Does it seem more RPM or throttle position related and does the ce light start flashing before, after or right at the same point?

If you pull the throttle back slightly will it clear up and rev up in rpm?

The fact that you are loosing power on other things throws another red flag. With that info I don't think it's the module. Don't waste your money. The cables on the other hand are sounding like the better investment but I have a hard time swallowing that as well. You load test them every time you start the car and if they can do that, they should be able to run the car no problem.

I have another thought. Trace the cable on the back of the alternator back to the battery. Make sure thats not shorting out somwhere.

I want to see you nail this. ;) The questions I ask are critical to finding the solution. It's not easy to diagnose over the net.
 
Very good advice given to you here by everyone......follow each lead thoroughly ......also check ign switch electrical plugs,and fuseable links at starter.
 
Yes in park or driving the CE light will always flash simultainusly with break up stutter and in either or if you let off it will clear up a little but as you start to climb more and more in rpms it will flash and start breaking up and another member on this thread suggested the wire off the alt also so that alt wire and the wiring coming off of the starter is starting to seem like that might be a closer try to find the problem and yes it is hard to diagnose on the site and not in person, lucky for me wiring doesnt scare or deter me I have even thought about pulling the harness from ecm to motor bay and inspect all the wiring "under the microscope" to get rid of all this guesswork but if weather lets me tommoro I will disconnect the wire off alt and see what happens
 
Unhooking the alternator wire is definitely another good test but trace the wire back to the battery as well. Make sure it's not shorting to ground somewhere.
 
Have you tried a known good ecm? I ran into this on a hot air car once and it had a ground issue in the harness. I actually added a ground wire to the case of the ecm and all was well. I ohmed out all the ground connections and found nothing wrong but adding the ground corrected the problem.



Do you have a scan that can actually record what is actually happening in the data stream. this may give a better clue.


One other thing to try is start the car and then unplug the Cam sensor. The hall effect wheel could be loose causing some issue.
 
not a chance to do anything yet cleaning up tree branches and stuff from storm But I will try to ground ecm body and swap with a new one when I get it as far as scantool scanmaster 2.0
 
A few years ago I was helping troubleshoot a car with a similar issue at the Nats in BG. In his case the wiring harness was resting on the steering column shift lever and the main power wire was shorting out against it. This can happen when you run aftermarket valvecovers.

Its more than likely a power wire shorting out on something. Perfect example is fusible links behind the starter causing this issue.
 
I am thinking along the same thing fuse links at sterter, ign switch and/or wiring, wire off back of alt, ecm harness at firewall entry, and since car will not run "batch mode" after unplugging cam sensor while running and have I lost something in harness and what reference does the calpak chip have on this issue can that cause this problem and if so can you even get one anymore but one thing for sure as soon as I get off work tommoro Im going at it and took this friday off work and will work on car from friday am til I find the problem so fellas I want all suggestions I have a notepad and as soon as you guys post a thought or idea I write it down and when I think of something I write it down and I will cross of the list as i go thru it and when I find the suggestion that found it I will post it for all to know what made me suffer (haha)!!! But keep it coming I know one day this will help other members also. Thanks
 
Update problem is still there,
1st used a caspers ign coil & module tester indicated no failure on 3 coils and 2 modules.
2nd with 3 ecm's all did same thing exactly.
3rd TT chip installed SES light will flicker with stumble,pop,etc but another style chip no ses flicker stumble, stutter still there
4th No batch mode at all.
5th traced ground off ign mod. for cam,crank,etc. verified and added a ground to that no change
6th Hooked DVM to org wire off batt for ecm 13.8-14.0 volts even when car stutters
7th pink wire #1 ign source @ ign switch DVM 13.8-14.0 volts there with or without stutter
8th Added a ground to ecm body no change
9th banged my head on sterring wheel for 13.8-14.0 seconds
10th reset tps to specs no change
11th no pins on ecm sprung
12th cleaned all plug in points ecm,ign mod,cam,etc. with electric contact cleaner and coated with dielectric grease
13th swapped with 3 different calpak chips
14th inspected alt wire from batt to alt all good there no exposed wire even ran a 4 ga wire from batt to alt no change
15th put ice on head from banging 13.8-14.0 seconds
16th check for vacuum leaks
17th replaced IAC sensor
18th all sm #'s seem to be good
19th no wires at starter shorting out

This is what I have done so far still acting up still open for all ideas in this nightmare of a troubleshoot. Thanks
 
Not an expert but had this very problem with ce light.

I had the same ce light flashing in rythm with the stumbling motor, and it turned out the be the plug connection was not seating properly on the ecm...or so I thought....needless to say it was really my power logger that was not seating correctly on the bottom of my ecm, turns out I didn't strip off the coating well enough to give a good connection on the board so I had to redo the stripping part of the install and then all was well. but yeah it acted just like yours, it ran like crap and the ce flashed to the beat of the engine, I used to keep a stick in the car and hit the ecm kick panel with it to nudge the connections on the board and then it would stop for a few hrs....or minutes...it was an annoying problem. If you're running a powerlogger or aftermarket ecm add on board I would suggest re-stripping the ecm board connections that it hooks onto, that clear coating is kinda stubborn. Especially if its a hardly used never had a powerlogger on it ecm.....good luck.
 
Just because you tested a coil pack and module using the test unit doesn't mean that the module is still ok. Trust me i found this out on a car with a fast system that kept giving crank sensor fault codes.

I also see in your list that you have not tried another known good ecm. If you can get a buddies ecm that runs his car fine and try his.
 
I will try a new cam sensor cap, as far as a power logger or etc... just stock ecm and all my ecms I have were all working ecms new and used unless my car is ruining them as soon as I install them, ign module I will just have to get a brand new delco one and hope for the best.
 
Take off serpentine belt and see if problem exists.....looking to see if alt is producing ac current affecting the ecm.
 
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