Those with Mech oil gauges

[wlaukaitis]

Hi folks

I know what has to be done to get the gauge to work, this is my plan:

add a little full-thread nipple (about 1") into the exsisting engine oil port where the original oil sender is/was. Put a "T" on it via one of the "crosses", on the other end of the "T" I'd like to put the oil gauge fitting so the oil has a straight shot to it, then on the "leg" of the "T" put the original oil sender

Here is my concern: Looks like the gauge sender wil interfere with the lower Rad hose. Has anyone done it like this? If I do it reverse with the oil sender on the cross I think I have less room.

I know I can tap off the turbo feel line, but I'd like to keep everything down by the port on the engine, so I could tap from the oil feed line at the block.

I'd like to keep the amount of pulmbing to a minimum.

Does anyone have any photos?

Thanks!!
Bill

 

[turbodave231]

Why bother with the stock sender? unless you are relying on the idiot light to save your engine, I'd just leave it off. It makes the installation much easier. I've installed lots of gages both mech and electric on these cars and never used the stock sender.

Dave

 

[Russ Merritt]

I just drill and tap the brass block. Have the fitting from the guage facing up, the idiot light sender facing forward. Works great. The copper tubing for mechanical guages I find is wayyy easier to work with and stronger than the plastic tubbing that comes with most kits.

 

[Nick Micale]

If you use a T with a male thread to go into the brass block [or a close nipple] it will just space the factory sender out towards the lower hose. It can point down a little if needed.

The T is positioned upside down, pointing up. The oil line can then easily be run down along the block/timing cover out of harm's way.