You can type here any text you want

Thread sealant for ARP Head Studs

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

GSTOY

Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
553
I'm getting ready to install some new HG's but I'm going to hopefully take out a small insurance policy by installing some ARP Head studs. What type of thread sealant should be used? I was searching thru the back threads and really didn't find much on the type of thread sealant to use but found plenty of opinions on Head Gaskets.

Of the information I did find, it's recommended to use a teflon sealant. I was at one of the local autoshops yesterday and I didn't really see anything that was labeled as a "teflon thread sealant". In some posts, threadlocker blue was mentioned, as was permatex black #2 and antiseize.

Of course the box of ARP head studs says to use "ARP thread sealant" on the botton of the studs, but they don't supply it in the box which I find amuzing, since they do supply the moly lube..go figure... So what is the general consensus of what works.

Thanks everyone. By the way, this is why I'm replacing the head gasket, and yes I'm doing both sides and since the engine is out the rear main seal is getting replaced as well...

Steve
 

Attachments

  • cylinder4head41908.jpg
    cylinder4head41908.jpg
    97.2 KB · Views: 623
"Loctite 567"

Hi Steve,

A little hard to find and I found it on ebay after looking at all the local stores. Loctite 567 it is a high tempature thread sealant.

Chuck
 
Hi

I used Loctite 592 that I bought from a hydralic shop we use at work about 13.00 a tube
 
They usually sell the stuff in the sealant section in very small tubes. Ive used plain old teflon paste from Lowes and never had any problems.
 
Go ahead and use loctite if you never plan on removing the studs ever again.
An good automotive RTV is all tha tis necessary to seal the threads.
 
Go ahead and use loctite if you never plan on removing the studs ever again.
An good automotive RTV is all tha tis necessary to seal the threads.

Why do you say that? Loctite 567 is not a thread locker, glue, whatever. It's a sealer, and it doesn't harden or lock the threads.

Any good teflon based thread sealant similar to it is what's best for the job. The LAST thing I would recommend would be an RTV based product for those threads. Assuming you could get it to "set" properly (only if the threads are perfectly clean), one retorque and you've busted the seal.

I'm with everybody else on this one. A good teflon based sealant will work perfectly.
 
About 12 yrs. ago I replaced my HG's and used the ARP stuff with their head bolts along with the Caddy tablets and never had a problem, this time I will be using studs and their teflon paste as last time, I just find it hard to beleive that ARP would sell a quality peice and have you use their sealant and not be good. But as always that is your choice to make.

Ron
 
Luckly we have a grainger industrial supply, and they have plenty of 567. Thanks to all who responded, I really apprieciate the responses.

Steve
 
About 12 yrs. ago I replaced my HG's and used the ARP stuff with their head bolts along with the Caddy tablets and never had a problem, this time I will be using studs and their teflon paste as last time, I just find it hard to beleive that ARP would sell a quality peice and have you use their sealant and not be good. But as always that is your choice to make.

Ron

Ron,

ARP doesn't supply there sealant with the kit, just the molly.

Chuck
 
There are many products that will work fine, teflon, RTV. almost any product will be sucessful.

I personally use a the teflon stuff.

Another note, how many have you ever heard of leaking? it just dosen't happen that often.


Don't sweat the petty things, pet the sweatty things. :biggrin:
 
sealant

Heres the deal, both ARP teflon paste and RTV work but they need to be applied correctly.

The ARP teflon or any other teflon based paste needs to mixed very well. If the paste is not mixed well it WILL leak. The oil or what ever is in it seperates over time from the solids. MAke sure the stud threads are complely dry and clean of oils and/or contaminates as well as the block threads.

The RTV based sealants work too and the threads must be clean and dry also. The only thing is you want to install the heads before the sealant completly dries so you dont crack the seal.

If you run Redline waterwetter in your coolant system it seems to exaggerate any coolant leaks so make sure you do it right.
 
good luck with loctite!:rolleyes:
i've always used black rtv. but its all about prep work. make sure threads are tapped, cleaned out with a gun brush, and compressor dried. The rtv will be fine.
 
I used the ARP Teflon Sealer and had leaks. Used Loctite Blue Thread Locker after a through cleaning of the block holes and studs with brake clean. The studs needs to be torqued several times before final torquing to stress relieve them. (important procedure) I also retaped the block threads with the ARP tap to match the stud rolled threads. With this procedure and after a hot run no more leaks or even a retorque was needed. (ANS Procedure that worked) MHO Gene PS. Those head pictures shows severe detonation, bad business, DOTC Club will be coming soon.
 
That is correct, ARP only supplies the moly, you have to buy there sealant if you were to use theirs. And yes you need to mix thoroughly, you will see that it does want to separate!

Ron
 
Back
Top