Ticking when trans is hot in N and P

[DorianL]

Greetz people,

I have a fast ticking sound that occurs at idle in N or P and only when the trans/engine is hot. 200-4R

If I am correct the possible sources are:

1. Bolts - trans to flexplate are loose

2. Torque Conver hub crack (mine is a new one freshly installed... so unlikely ?)

3. Flexplate has crack around the crank bols (does that occur only when HOT ?!?!? - shouldn't it happen all the time then ?)

4. Rotor on the pump are broken - Since this noise only occurs when hot - I would think this would be the source.

Do I need a new pump ? Or can I DIY rebuild ?

MTIA

D.

 

[2quiktocare]

Dorian, it does sound so much like a flex plate. Pull your inspection cover, undo the converter bolts and slide it back. Carefully check for worn mount holes and for cracks around the hub mount for the flexplate. If it was a pump rotor, chances are most likely you would not be able to drive at all. Let us know whats up. Mark

 

[DorianL]

Many Thanks Mark

I betcha it's that. IT'll take me a couple of days/evenings. Will let you know as soon as I get a close look at it.



D.

 

[DorianL]

Hmmmmmm

Lessee - Now 1 a.m. I pulled the tranny back, removed the flexplate and cleaned it. I used a 500 watt lamp but could find no obvious cracks. Are these cracks always visible ? I'll look again tomorrow evening with fresher eyes. There were a few minor scuffs.

Should I replace anyway - or should I explore the pump rotors first ?



D.

 

[2quiktocare]

I would next check line pressure to see if you have any.

 

[DorianL]

Yea, I shoulda done that when the tranny was in the car. I guess I'll go through the tranny.

It's gonna be such a burden to put it back in just to check the line pressure.

I guess I'll just pull and disassemble the pump first. If it is clearly the problem, I'll have it rebuilt here by a tranny shop (ayeeee knock on wood people) and, I suppose, I'll replace the band and the clutches in front of the center support (and center support with the billet one I have) while I'm at it with the PTS stuff you sent me.

 

[DorianL]

Maybe the crack I heard when it first fired up was the pump rotors ?

 

[2quiktocare]

Dorian, That is why I said undo the converter and slip it back first. That way you could do the rest of the testing first. I also assumed that when you said it made the noise only in park/neutral was that it still drove ok. If a pump rotor broke, the car would more than likely not move. Mark

 

[DorianL]

I did actually slip the converter back and saw no cracks. I got paraoid and decided to go whole hog - I wanted to see around the bolt holes. So I pulled the plate off to make sure. I guess I'll replace the flexplate to be on the safe side.

Ummmm - if it's wiser to put the trans back in... so be it. It's not that bad once you've done it a couple of times.

I'll see if I can find a pressure gauge locally.

I didn't run the car very far because I was afraid of grenading the trans.

I also assumed that when you said it made the noise only in park/neutral was that it still drove ok.

Just about.


A month ago I took it out on a two-mile drive and it seemed to drive ok but then seemed to lose power towards the end (I really thought I wasn't going to make it back - I had to start revving)... It ticked when hot in N and P.

Then, I replaced the converter with a rebuilt one. This time I only took it around the block and the ticking came back when hot. I decided to stop.

Pressure test first then ?

 

[dwithers]

I have the exact same issue. Mine is still unresolved.

 

[DorianL]

Did you do a pressure test ?

Did you do a pressure test ?

 

[dwithers]

I did not do a pressure test. What the best and cleanest way to do so?