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berserker6

Assistant to the regional manager
Joined
Oct 1, 2009
Messages
1,512
when i bought the car the SMC kit was already installed. now im starting to get a smidgen ok KR (1-2.5) in 3rd with 820mv's. i hit the test button and the gauge at the pump peaks at 80psi. i dont know if thats weak or any weaker than new? im only at 20psi of boost. im starting to think it may be time to try razors setup. i know the easy answer is yes. but is there a scientific one?
 
razor, care to chime in? i wont be offended haha am i accurate in thinking that if my pump is putting out 80psi and the intake pipe is getting 20psi of boost. the net result is only 60lbs of alky spray?
 
Makes sense! But have you tried adding more alky? I can say you should get a wideband and a powerlogger. Here is the reason.

I too was using my scanmaster to tune with. I have been all over the place with 02s. 860s-730s. Now even though the scanmaster updated faster when hooked up to the powerlogger, it still has a flaw. The readings are lack the ability to see quick changes that the wideband can pick up. When my A/F jumped of a moment it went into the mid 11s and had a little knock. The computer saw the knock and the wideband picked up the A/F. The stock 02 missed it and stayed in the 800s. I will try to post a picture.
I use the AEM from Turbo Tweak. Super simple install.
 
Makes sense! But have you tried adding more alky? I can say you should get a wideband and a powerlogger. Here is the reason.

i dont really have the ability to add more alky. (i think) my controller is progressive in that i have a turn on time and a max psi. im starting to think my pump at 80psi is dieing a slow death.:mad: im using an SMC controller.
 
How far into third are you before you see knock? It could be the alky pump, are you using meth, denatured, 50/50 water....What? How much timing?
 
look at the WB vs 02s
 

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I run straight denatured. I have an alky TT chip. I think timing is 23 21? And it knocks in 3rd soon as boost hits peak. Which I've turned down to about 20 21lbs. My 02s are between 790-820. I've even lowered timing in 3rd. But to no avail. The chip that came with the car is a TT chip burned for an earlier combo with the injectors in the car now. And I don't remember ever getting knock with that chip. (it wasn't an alky chip tho) I'm going to throw that chip back in and see how it runs.
 
If the other chip is a street chip it wil have more injector duty cycle up top and supply more fuel. 02s should be higher and if that cures your knock you may want to make sure your fuel pump voltage and pressure is keeping up in high gear.

If it was good at 22-24psi before, now only good to 20-21, volume could be lacking in the fuel system or the alky system. If the system is up to the job, look towards the alky system.
 
Can you add fuel with the chip or pull a little timing in 3rd? That alky kit was used very little. I know it's not built like Razors kit but I would think it would suffice at your boost level.
 
razor, care to chime in? i wont be offended haha am i accurate in thinking that if my pump is putting out 80psi and the intake pipe is getting 20psi of boost. the net result is only 60lbs of alky spray?

Was out of town :D

If you pull timing, richen up the car.. and the knock goes away.. then your low on alky volume. Period. Plus the size of turbo used.. coupled with low alky pressure=knock.
 
once upon a time my translator was wired directly to the alternator. it was draining the battery. i would get 0 kr tho. but my battery would be dead by morning. i had the translator wired up the "correct" way and started having problems. as soon as the alky would kick on at whatever boost i set it at it would mess my translator signal and the motor would POP! i got the plug and play from razor for the translator and it helped alot. i actually thought it was fixed cuz i hardly get on it. (i dont really need to):biggrin: but alas it wasnt:frown: now after doing research im starting to think it may be my quadair volt booster? so i could use some help figuring out how to get rid of this thing. i have no idea. i could post up pics of the setup if needed. thanks guys
 
Please read the reply directly above this one and let me know if I'm on the right track. Thanks
 
Please read the reply directly above this one and let me know if I'm on the right track. Thanks

The hot wire kit I sent solves the MAF dropout and popping. The voltbooster is band-aidding a weak alky system. Meaning the voltage jacks up and the little pump puts out a little more. Bottom line is your on the edge with the amount being sprayed in.

IF your alky system was healthy, you could ditch the volt booster and not have any of these issues. You still will need the hot-wired translator, but thats another story.

HTH
 
Thanks for responding razor you're a class act for sharing your knowledge. The thing that's throwing me off is when the translator was hardwired to the back of the alternator I couldn't get knock if I tried. The car ran incredible. But it was killing the battery. Ever since I had it rewired so as not to kill the battery I've had trouble.:confused: is there a way to isolate the power source for the alky pump the same way we did for the translator?
 
Hooking up the translator to the back of the alternator directly or using the relay is the same electrical as when the relay contacts close.. its a straight shot. The difference is when the ign is shut off, the translator is disconnected and doesnt drain the battery.

So your chasing something else. Sounds like your knock is weak alky pump or weak fuel system. None of these will be fixed by wiring translator directly to alternator.
 
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