Timing Chain Ouestions

[OldGrayII]

O.K., since I already had the motor apart for the heads, I figured I might as well go a little further and check out the Timing chain, so I pulled the front cover carefully following the DETAILED write-up on gnttyp.org and the chain had about 5/8" of play and the nylon gear looked great, all teeth present and accounted for, but now before reassembly a few Questions:

1. Where the hell is this Oil deflector I keep hearing about, is it the cup-like sheet metal piece that came off with the top gear after I removed the 2 bolts????

2. There are NO dots on either gear (they say line up dot to dot)!!!

3. The smaller steel gear I would assume gets reused??!!

4. For re-assembly I guess I just slide on the smaller lower gear over the keyway on the crank, in fact thats the ONLY way to put it back on Again theres NO DOTS!!

5. Again on the lower gear does the LIP go toward the motor, or away?

6. On the Upper gear theres only one way to put it back on as well, Bolt it into the 2 holes!!

Thanks in advance for any replies!

 

[Buick T]

The slinger deal goes on the crank and has a key slot in it the flange out part goes to the front.
You got to have dots. Sometimes it's just a v cut but there is one on the timing sprocket and the crank sprocket. When you get new set it should have new sprockets and chain. Replace both so you have steel instead of the nylon, it will go one day. With #1 at TDC the dots should be lined up at each other. Cam at 6 and crank at 12 o/clock. Your timing mark can also be used to put the make at 0 degrees and they should be lined up there.
While you have the damper off make a mark at 25 degrees I think it is 1.45" to the left of the 0 timing mark if you were standing at the front. You'll need that to set the cam sensor back in.
I just looked a picture of mine, the dot on the cam sprocket should be at 12 or 6 o'clock if you hold the sprocket with the two bolt holes at 9 and 3 o'clock.
If you read the gnttype stuff I guess you are replacing the tensioner/damper and the spring too. Check your cover gaskets for all the correct holes in them as sometimes they are not all there.

 

[OldGrayII]

Unfortunaitly, I don't have the gears here with me at work to look at, so, even though it wasn't readily apparant, I guess I'll look for a v or some type of mark, but the BIG thing here is that the Crank gear gets pushed-on over the keyway with the Flange facing Outward/Front, sliding the oil deflector over it with the dished end facing toward the motor? Anybody got a PIC anywhere of the complete assemly installed, I should have taken one BEFORE I pulled it all apart!!

 

[UNGN]

The one dot on the crank goes up, the arrow on the cam gear points down at the dot (it goes up, to)

 

[WarpSpeed]

The concave part of the crank gear goes "in", the cup part of the deflector goes out(wider part out.) It will only assemble correctly. It's not difficult, you'll see. You'll have to lower the oil pan a little, if it's still on the motor, to get the cover back on.

 

[Buick T]

The bigger diameter end of the slinger goes out toward the front of the motor. I'll send you the pdf file of the engine assembly drawings.
Did you read about replacing the cam button with a needle type and checking the cover for wear right there?

 

[OldGrayII]

Guys, thanks a million, I looked at UNGN's homepage, where he has an EXCELLENT 44w engine parts diagram that makes re-assembly plain as mud!
Just one more thing, the "general" concensus seems to be to go with the cloyes Steel stock replacement chain & gears???? And re-use (or get a NEW GM one) the tensioner??

 

[OldGrayII]

Oh yea, the front cover is just a little shiny where the cam button pushed against it, I guess this is "normal"??

 

[wyk3d]

get the new style roller cam button