Tips and advice for running M&A aluminum heads?

[JDSfastGN]

Can somebody School me on M&A aluminum heads? J I recently purchased a set of M&A aluminum heads that were ported professionally. They have the casting of Stage III on the underside that I understand all the production runs have marked on them. I have a few pictures of the other casting numbers that the seller sent me. Does anybody else make a center bolt valve cover that fit these heads with the M&A rockers that will clear the heater box better? I will run the M&A valve covers that came with the heads if I have to but they are a real PITA to get on and off In the car if I need to do anything on the passenger side head. Do the heads require a different set of head studs than I currently run for my ported 8445s? If I keep my current cam with .516 lift will the M&A rockers (not sure on brand? Crane?) will they be ok? I have read about their valvetrain geometry issues but haven’t found any conclusive reports on failures or issues. I am hoping they are the 3rd batch of heads they produced since cracking is a concern with the first 2 production runs. I plan on taking them into my machine shop to have pressure checked and get a couple of runners flowed to verify the port work. Thanks for any help or advice on these heads.

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[fastblackracing]

While your getting the heads checked have all of your springs checked for seat and open pressures, are you running a flat tappet or roller cam, if roller do you know what lobes they are? the spring pressures you need will let you figure out if the rockers will work. Cant tell you if the studs will work, but if you measure the depths of the bolt tunnels we can figure it out for you. Should be 3 different lengths. One of the sets I had made decent power but were for sure leakers, so keep your fingers crossed. Are these replacing your ported Irons? The stud mount rockers take some work and know how to get the pushrod length correct for best geometry, if your not familiar with this I would encourage you to have your machine shop help you if they have a competent person there. Not all do.

 

[JDSfastGN]

While your getting the heads checked have all of your springs checked for seat and open pressures, are you running a flat tappet or roller cam, if roller do you know what lobes they are? the spring pressures you need will let you figure out if the rockers will work. Cant tell you if the studs will work, but if you measure the depths of the bolt tunnels we can figure it out for you. should be 3 different lengths. One of the sets I had made decent power but were for sure leakers, so keep your fingers crossed. Are these replacing your ported Irons?

I run a 210/215 Roller from Fullthrottlespeed.
"Revolution XR2" Roller cam
Our latest design roller profile for use with newer high flow turbos. Specs:
Intake 210 @ .050 .516 lift
Exhaust 215 @ .050 .516 lift
110 L/S (installs at 110)

I do not know what their lobe design is called. I had thought about talking to a vendor about a custom cam to better match the heads depending on how the flow numbers looked. Yes they are replacing my ported big valve 8445s. I do not have the heads in my possession yet but will measure the depths of the bolt tunnels when I get them to see if my current hardware will work. When you say leakers are we talking cracking in the coolant to intake or not sealing combustion wise?

 

[fastblackracing]

I run a 210/215 Roller from Fullthrottlespeed.
"Revolution XR2" Roller cam
Our latest design roller profile for use with newer high flow turbos. Specs:
Intake 210 @ .050 .516 lift
Exhaust 215 @ .050 .516 lift
110 L/S (installs at 110)

I do not know what their lobe design is called. I had thought about talking to a vendor about a custom cam to better match the heads depending on how the flow numbers looked. Yes they are replacing my ported big valve 8445s. I do not have the heads in my possession yet but will measure the depths of the bolt tunnels when I get them to see if my current hardware will work. When you say leakers are we talking cracking in the coolant to intake or not sealing combustion wise?

Cracks in the casting and had the sealed with some kind of internal sealer. Turned into a real pain the azz and I decided they were better suited for door stops. Not all of the heads were bad maybe you got a good set. Can mike tell you what spring pressures you need with tha cam?

 

[JDSfastGN]

Cracks in the casting and had the sealed with some kind of internal sealer. Turned into a real pain the azz and I decided they were better suited for door stops. Not all of the heads were bad maybe you got a good set. Can mike tell you what spring pressures you need with tha cam?

Yeah I have read the first two batches had issues. I was hoping this would be from the 3rd and I wouldn't have issues.
For reference my current springs are Kmotion K750s set up for around 155 /410 . I hope I didn't just buy doors stops.

 

[fastblackracing]

Yeah I have read the first two batches had issues. I was hoping this would be from the 3rd and I wouldn't have issues.
For reference my current springs are Kmotion K750s set up for around 155 /410 . I hope I didn't just buy doors stops.

Cool, hopefully all the bad ones are out of circulation by now, yours look pretty good in the pics.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Cracks in the casting and had the sealed with some kind of internal sealer. Turned into a real pain the azz and I decided they were better suited for door stops. Not all of the heads were bad maybe you got a good set. Can mike tell you what spring pressures you need with tha cam?

FYI: We use Moroso block sealer. Old school fixes were to pump heated water glass thru the heads, then let them cool. That put a slick "glass like" seal in the jackets. Seems the water glass deal is not the best... Maybe, why I don't see it used.

http://www.head-gasket-repair.com/xpert-answers/how-to-repair-head-gasket/

 

[JDSfastGN]

Well I picked up the heads today! They look great in person but they are getting dropped off at the machine shop tomorrow to be pressure tested and make sure they are worth investing in. The rockers look to be in good condition and the studs are ARP hardware. I haven't measured but they after a bit of research it appears that the studs I currently have should work. I will get flow numbers and see how they flow and then consider a custom roller cam grind to replace my 210/215 RevX roller if its deemed that it would be worth it. I'm leaning towards no since I don't have the bottom end to really take advantage of the flow that the heads should be capable of at higher rpms. Any more suggestions? Swap back to my .85 housing on my 6776? Thanks!

 

[JDSfastGN]

Oh and just for my future knowledge, what torque should aluminum heads be torqued to with ARP studs? Less than Irons? Ive read differing answers in my searches so far.

 

[turbo nasty]

Oh and just for my future knowledge, what torque should aluminum heads be torqued to with ARP studs? Less than Irons? Ive read differing answers in my searches so far.

Studs just hand tight...not snugged down..... the broached hex for a allen key on the end of the stud is NOT to tighten the stud in the block its simply there while putting in the studs and to help you get by a possible tight part of the threads. Studs sealed with Permatex #2 in block.

Once they are in then lube and washer/nut....3 steps to 80 ft lbs WITH Arp Moly lube

 

[fastblackracing]

Not sure what you use to seal the studs in the block, the orange permatex is my favorite never had a leaker. How do you like the 3.23 gears and why did you put them in if you dont mind sharing.

 

[JDSfastGN]

Not sure what you use to seal the studs in the block, the orange permatex is my favorite never had a leaker. How do you like the 3.23 gears and why did you put them in if you dont mind sharing.

I like them well enough. I broke my 3.42s back in the day and decided to go 3.23 because I always ended up going to the track on my 17s with only a 25.7" tall tire. I had a flat tappet and didnt want to have to shift into OD during my passes. I figured if it was too tall a gear for my slick setup I would just run a 27" tall tire instead of my 28s. I drive my dads 3.42 cars pretty often and its pretty hard to tell the difference. I may consider changing them or my race setups tire height with the new setup though to get the rpms up through 3rd gear.

 

[fastblackracing]

Nice that you and pops both have turbo 6 cars to wheel around in, I had considered going 3.23 gears but decided to try and increase my rpm ceiling a little. Thanks for the info.

 

[Mike Licht]

give me a call and I will give you the info you need

 

[turbo nasty]

Not sure what you use to seal the studs in the block, the orange permatex is my favorite never had a leaker. How do you like the 3.23 gears and why did you put them in if you dont mind sharing.

Permatex #2 make sure threads are clean of oil and coolant before applying.

 

[JDSfastGN]

Nice that you and pops both have turbo 6 cars to wheel around in, I had considered going 3.23 gears but decided to try and increase my rpm ceiling a little. Thanks for the info.

Yes it is nice. He got me into them with hi 85 that he bought back in 87 and still has along with a couple of intercooled cars now. I think going for the rpm ceiling is the way to go once you are shooting for more than mid 11s.

 

[JDSfastGN]

give me a call and I will give you the info you need

Mike Ill try and call tomorrow to get some info from you. Thanks!

 

[JDSfastGN]

Well my dream of aluminum heads came to an end today. The machine shop let me know that one head was cracked in two places after it failed the pressure test . I was really excited to get them on and build the rest of the combi around them. Oh well. I did get my money back though.

 

[turbo nasty]

Alum can be repaired

 

[turboclam]

Can they repair them? One advantage over iron heads.