First I stuck a big round fan in my front door and blew all the air out of my house. Kind of like the "blower door" concept. This caused air to be sucked into my house. I went around with incense and from the smoke, saw where the air was coming into my house. Exhaust fans in the bathrooms and ceiling light fixtures were the worst culprits. Menards guy said to put chicken wire above the fixtures (in the attic) and then place insulation on the wire, keeping it off of the fixtures. Then, I bought some pink styrofoam for $9 for a 4X8 sheet and began cutting it up to place in windows. Doesn't allow sun in, but definitely keeps the heat in. Does anybody else have suggestions?
Tips on insulating your house
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You can nail some rubber insulation stuff to the bottom of your doors. This will make it so air can't get in or out below the door. In my house we have window quilts. They insulate much better than venetian blinds but they are pretty expensive from what I remember.
not sure what you're tyring to accomplish, especially by covering up your windows with pink insulation board 
however....
there are several strategies to properly insulating a home. the best strategy depends on:
1. your budget
2. the construction of the home (pier and beam? slab-on-grade? basement?, brick? stone? wood siding?)
3. geographic location of the home (climate)
In general terms, you want to insulate the attic, exterior walls and the doors and windows. a prioritized list should look something like:
#1 - insulate the attic space with blown or batt insulation. the recommended insulation value (R-value) varies by region. but you reallly can't have too much. 6 inches is pretty much the minimum. careful around recessed/canned light fixtures, some are designed to have insulation directly on them but most are not and can start a fire if they are covered up or if they contact insualtion.
#2 - make sure your exterior walls are properly insulated to at least the recomended R-value for your area. You should have some form of insulation in the cavities of the exterior walls between the studs. If not, most insulation companies can fill the walls with blown insulation just like they do the attic.
#3 - install insulated windows and doors (at least double-pane, triple if you can afford it.) this should address any leaks you my have around existing doors and windows. if insulated doors and windows are not in the budget, just make sure you've addressed #1 and #2 then invest in some caulk and weather-stripping and seal up any air leaks around your existing doors and windows.
HTH
Rob
however....there are several strategies to properly insulating a home. the best strategy depends on:
1. your budget
2. the construction of the home (pier and beam? slab-on-grade? basement?, brick? stone? wood siding?)
3. geographic location of the home (climate)
In general terms, you want to insulate the attic, exterior walls and the doors and windows. a prioritized list should look something like:
#1 - insulate the attic space with blown or batt insulation. the recommended insulation value (R-value) varies by region. but you reallly can't have too much. 6 inches is pretty much the minimum. careful around recessed/canned light fixtures, some are designed to have insulation directly on them but most are not and can start a fire if they are covered up or if they contact insualtion.
#2 - make sure your exterior walls are properly insulated to at least the recomended R-value for your area. You should have some form of insulation in the cavities of the exterior walls between the studs. If not, most insulation companies can fill the walls with blown insulation just like they do the attic.
#3 - install insulated windows and doors (at least double-pane, triple if you can afford it.) this should address any leaks you my have around existing doors and windows. if insulated doors and windows are not in the budget, just make sure you've addressed #1 and #2 then invest in some caulk and weather-stripping and seal up any air leaks around your existing doors and windows.
HTH
Rob
You would be surprised how much the sun can heat your home in the dead of winter. My separated garage will be 8-15* warmer during the day than the outside temp. I always ran the plastic crap over my old leaky windows. I'm not really sure if it did much. I just got use to wearing insulators.
BLACK6PACK
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That plastic "cling wrap" type stuff is supposed to do a pretty good job of insulating the windows and allows sun in to warm the house. It creates a dead air space which is pretty good insulation.
I was actually able to open the windows and turn off the AC this week for the first time in months. It got down to 58* last night... brrrrr!
I was actually able to open the windows and turn off the AC this week for the first time in months. It got down to 58* last night... brrrrr!
Junior Samples
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incense? um number 8 gonish?...hmmm good ole days I still have a couple of black light sabbath posters if ya want..lol
Serious though
its hard to do now but if you had seperate storm windows with magnet strips all the way around the storms and all the way around each window frame then just stick to window frames...sounds like old house without vinyl windows?
but it does work, no air will enter through the magnet strips and will trap air between storm and house window.
And dont forget great stuff!..also works for rotted rocker panels
Serious though
its hard to do now but if you had seperate storm windows with magnet strips all the way around the storms and all the way around each window frame then just stick to window frames...sounds like old house without vinyl windows?
but it does work, no air will enter through the magnet strips and will trap air between storm and house window.
And dont forget great stuff!..also works for rotted rocker panels
when the neighbors get pissed about the pink window,you can always move the trailer
That certainly is an issue. I can just push the trailer down the hill but I'm afraid it might roll into the county garbage dump. Then the county would sell it for scrap but still charge me property tax on the pad. Ha Ha Ha!
Seriously, if the pink window ever caught on, power bills would collectively decrease and we would have more money to spend on car parts, vacations, local businesses, etc. At least I know I would. My house is about 15 years old. My windows allow cold air in. I don't think windows in general are going to insulate a wall as good as fiberglass in a wall cavity. Maybe I'll just "pink out" the windows on the back and sides of the house.
Junior Samples
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Rick
say you go out and buy 1 sheet of plexiglass the size of any window, get some 1/2 wide magnet strips with sticky back, it comes in a roll. attach around edge of plexi then run strip all around outside of your window frame and attach glass...no air will enter through window, now if air is comming in around J channel then thats another thing. caulk between J-channel and window frame
it can be investment but having to duct tape and sheet wrap every year blows...its cold here as well so i understand
say you go out and buy 1 sheet of plexiglass the size of any window, get some 1/2 wide magnet strips with sticky back, it comes in a roll. attach around edge of plexi then run strip all around outside of your window frame and attach glass...no air will enter through window, now if air is comming in around J channel then thats another thing. caulk between J-channel and window frame
it can be investment but having to duct tape and sheet wrap every year blows...its cold here as well so i understand
That sounds like a good idea. I'll check into pricing for plexiglass. I definitely need it on windows on front of house. Plus it lets light in for the plants that I removed from my pond. As for the styrofoam, even though it might sound like a trashy idea, it is real easy to do. doesn't even need duct tape. Just cut it so it will fit snug in window well. The pink stuff cuts like drywall- just score it with a knife and snap it. Much less messy than the white variety. Thanks for the plexiglass idea.:smile:
Junior Samples
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Rick,
Although i think the plexiglass is kinda pricey I kinda used the term to seperate how i was trying to convey the idea, but for sure much better for storage etc
Also when i think about it you could take the plexiglass and silk screen turbo 6 logo on each one...hmmmmmmm
Although i think the plexiglass is kinda pricey I kinda used the term to seperate how i was trying to convey the idea, but for sure much better for storage etc
Also when i think about it you could take the plexiglass and silk screen turbo 6 logo on each one...hmmmmmmm
So do you mean there is a cheaper clear plastic to use than plexiglass?
Also, the windows are vinyl. Is there metal inside them for the magnet to stick to? Keep the suggestions coming. Thanks guys.RICHIE HIGH PSI
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if you have any gas appliances, you dont want to seal the home too tight.
i would also look for r-30 in the attic
i would also look for r-30 in the attic
Use the 3M window kits, its just double sided tape and clear plastic. Looks clean, easy install, and works. I personally think its a waste of time with newer windows like you have, but thats just me.
BTW, that "blower door" thing you did: An HVAC co here used that as a gimmick to sell work. Its BS. Of course your house leaks air, you wanna die from lack of oxygen in there? You need a certain number of air exchanges per day. Caulk up the joints in the siding (J-channels and such), make sure the attic is well insulated, and use a programmable thermostat. Set the heat with no greater differential than 3-4 degrees of normal setpoint. If you like your house 70 degrees, set it back no lower than 66.
Oh, close your crawlspace vents too. Most people don't. My garage wasn't insulated when I moved in, Horn did it for $600 including the door. I live just north of you in Timberline, I bet our houses are very similar.
Stop buying TR's and you won't have to worry about saving $$$!
BTW, that "blower door" thing you did: An HVAC co here used that as a gimmick to sell work. Its BS. Of course your house leaks air, you wanna die from lack of oxygen in there? You need a certain number of air exchanges per day. Caulk up the joints in the siding (J-channels and such), make sure the attic is well insulated, and use a programmable thermostat. Set the heat with no greater differential than 3-4 degrees of normal setpoint. If you like your house 70 degrees, set it back no lower than 66.
Oh, close your crawlspace vents too. Most people don't. My garage wasn't insulated when I moved in, Horn did it for $600 including the door. I live just north of you in Timberline, I bet our houses are very similar.
Stop buying TR's and you won't have to worry about saving $$$!
Junior Samples
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Rick,
Sorry for the confusion, my first post on this topic was like take a peice of glass and stick it on other peice of glass, and im sure that was hard to envision..lol
So i rephrased it by saying plexiglass, plexiglass will work, I think a framed storm is cheaper but if i had choice i would go the plexiglass route. you would have to line the outside frame of window with the magnet strips to secure the plexi/magnet strips but it does seal and tight and when spring comes, you just peel off and store for next year.
I do like the 3M product, its quick and disposable come spring but not much of a view.
At least seal up NW corner of house from the cold wind a blowin and be thankful your not on the east side of the lake...brrrrrrrr
Sorry for the confusion, my first post on this topic was like take a peice of glass and stick it on other peice of glass, and im sure that was hard to envision..lol
So i rephrased it by saying plexiglass, plexiglass will work, I think a framed storm is cheaper but if i had choice i would go the plexiglass route. you would have to line the outside frame of window with the magnet strips to secure the plexi/magnet strips but it does seal and tight and when spring comes, you just peel off and store for next year.
I do like the 3M product, its quick and disposable come spring but not much of a view.
At least seal up NW corner of house from the cold wind a blowin and be thankful your not on the east side of the lake...brrrrrrrr
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Haven't seen under floor insulation, for crawl spaces and basement houses, mentioned. Just had the nasty glas insul taken out, and urethane sprayed in. Also, added a hd vinyl covering w/ taped seams, to the dirt areas of the crawl... Big difference in moisture in the summer, and heat loss in the winter.
I once saw a neat idea to cut down on hot water costs.
The guy took 4" pvc pipe, and ran a grid on the ceiling of the basement. He hooked the incoming, cold water, to 1 end and the hot water heater inlet to the other. The storage of water allowed the heat soak to raise the temp.. cutting down on the BTU's needed to heat water...
I once saw a neat idea to cut down on hot water costs.
The guy took 4" pvc pipe, and ran a grid on the ceiling of the basement. He hooked the incoming, cold water, to 1 end and the hot water heater inlet to the other. The storage of water allowed the heat soak to raise the temp.. cutting down on the BTU's needed to heat water...
Hey Sam, why did you move? You must have less garage space now than you had before. Did you remove the "& Son" from your business name? I'm sure you know the builder who built all of these Parkland Ridge houses. I can't complain too much, although the kitchen cabinets are dog ass ugly (no offense Rudy). I was down in the crawl yesterday admiring your gas line work. I wondered if closing the vents would matter much. Walls in crawl are sprayed with some kind of foam stuff and ducts are insulated with fiber board or something similar. Hot water pipes are wrapped too. The blower door worked real good- it magnified the air leaks in a crude sort of way. I've used the 3M plastic but it seemed kind of thin to me. Nothing like a nice 1" thick piece of styrofoam. I'll get up in the attic tomorrow and see what's going on up there. I think the last owner said he added insulation and it has plenty now. You're right-if only I can cure myself of this TR illness I could live like a king. I'm trying to sell my old house after the fire- that will bring in some $ but I'll probably waste it on my cars anyway.:biggrin:Use the 3M window kits, its just double sided tape and clear plastic. Looks clean, easy install, and works. I personally think its a waste of time with newer windows like you have, but thats just me.
BTW, that "blower door" thing you did: An HVAC co here used that as a gimmick to sell work. Its BS. Of course your house leaks air, you wanna die from lack of oxygen in there? You need a certain number of air exchanges per day. Caulk up the joints in the siding (J-channels and such), make sure the attic is well insulated, and use a programmable thermostat. Set the heat with no greater differential than 3-4 degrees of normal setpoint. If you like your house 70 degrees, set it back no lower than 66.
Oh, close your crawlspace vents too. Most people don't. My garage wasn't insulated when I moved in, Horn did it for $600 including the door. I live just north of you in Timberline, I bet our houses are very similar.
Stop buying TR's and you won't have to worry about saving $$$!
John Larkin
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Chuck, how do you think the floor insulation will affect water pipe freezing in the crawl? I've considered it but was apprehensive since the pipes get their warmth from the floor. I do block my crawl vents in winter and the crawl opening as well. It can get to 0 for a week or two in February. I generally leave a faucet dripping when it does for that period of time.
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