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Now is there anything different in making a TTA faster...lets say mid 11's?
 
Performance Upgrade Update

This was an old post of mine that I happened to read today.

The previous post that I started was very broad because I didn't clarify a great deal. Anyhow, my goal is to get my GN into the high 11's or low 12's at the least.

My upgrades up to this point:

1. K&N Cold Air Filter

2. Accufab Fuel Pressure Regulator

3. Scanmaster 2.1

4. Precision Turbo 50# Injectors

5. Chip For 50# Injectors (from Nick Michale)

6. Rebuilt Stock Turbo (definitely going bigger, but I don't know what turbo I should be buying for my goals)

7. Aftermarket 3" Downpipe

8. Walbro Fuel Pump + Hotwire Kit (buying this week from racetronix)


These are my current upgrades, now I need some direction as to what I will need to achieve my goals. I was thinking that the Gbodyparts 23 Row Stock Location Intercooler would be a good investment, as well as a bigger turbo. What are some of your thoughts about what turbo I should run?

I would appreciate the input from those who are knowledgable about this subject.

Thanks
 
You are going to get alot of different responses on turbo choices. I personally have a Turbonetics CPT 66 BB with 3500 stall, GN1 heads, 72lb, ALKY,Cottons front mount and like this turbo alot. Ball bearing turbos will cost you more money but will spool faster. If you do not have or are planning to buy a new converter, buy a ball bearing. You need to set a goal and stick with it. Contact a vendor of your choice( mine is Jack Cotton ) and ask questions. Its all about the combo, you may buy a larger turbo now but it will not perform up to its potential until you fill in the remaining parts of the combo.
Good luck.
Bryan
 
You could spend alot of time tweaking the stock turbo on your car to run low 12s on a good day BUT...

If you wanted to get the car into the mid to low 12s on drag radials on mostly everyday a TE44 or a TA49 would do just fine.

Today i installed a TA61 turbo and with the adjustable wastegate actuator, RJC bleeder valve, and a tweak chip, the stock convertor spooled it up fairly decent. Not alot of lag to it.

This TA61 has a garrett exhaust housing.

If you plan on running a larger than a TE44 turbo, then you can either buy a higher stall convertor, or just deal with a little bit of laggg.

BW
 
Before doing any work on your turbo Regal, the first two things you should get are a good BOOST GAUGE and a SCANMASTER to see how's the car running as it is! Then, using these tools, you can begin improving it's performance, but at least, you'll have some reliable means to verify if you're heading in the right direction with your mods...

Claude :)
 
Boost Gauge and A Scan Tool are the First things you need to get.
 
Boost Gauge and A Scan Tool are the First things you need to get.

Oh I apologize, I forgot to mention that I have an aftermarket boost gauge on the A-Pilar, and I also mention in my list of upgrades that I had a Scanmaster 2.1
 
Oh I apologize, I forgot to mention that I have an aftermarket boost gauge on the A-Pilar, and I also mention in my list of upgrades that I had a Scanmaster 2.1

a scanmaster is a start but i was thinking more on the lines of a powerlogger with a WB sensor.
 
with a good front mount, or alky, (or both) and those injectors, an rjc boost controller (and good air in/air out, ie. a solid maf pipe and exhaust dump) you could port your turbo out, and turn up the boost, and i think you'd be quite suprised. Oh yea, you'd need some mt drag slicks as well. you'd blow anything else away.
 
With these cars it is not about any one part, it is about the combination of the right parts. I am the lucky owner of a low mile gn, i kept it bone stock for years. Afew years ago i decided to take it to the track, bone stock it turned 14.7 at 95....which is about what these cars turned. I noticed the stock mustangs turning lo 14's so i knew i should do a little tweaking. I ran across an old newsletter by Red Amrstrong and basically followed his recipe. I did the following
scanmaster and boost gauge
turbo tweak street chip, 160 stat and a 237 regulator
atr strainless test pipe with hooker exhaust
8 in. kn filter with chrome solid maf pipe
breathers both side
magancor wires
picked up a mint duttneck intercooler
atr intercooler air deflector
reds xp pump
results: 13.2 at 105 on stock size eagle gts with a lousy 2.13 60 ft. time. with dr's and just a 1.9 60 ft. this would be a high 12 second run on 94 octane and 16 lb. of boost.
 
On a untouched Bone Stock model...

Fuel Pump, Hotwire, bigger inj and Adj fuel psi reg (fuel system)
Alky Injec
EXH and DP
60 something series BB turbo w/adj ac
Scantool
Translater with LS1 sensor
TT Chip
rear susp
M/T DR
 
I was trying to do a search before I asked this question, but I couldn't find it anywhere. My question is as follows:

I see many of the same upgrades being recommended by various members. I was wondering what is purpose of upgrading to the LS1 Maf Sensor with Maf Translator serve?

I would appreciate it if somebody could give me an explaination.

Thank You
 
Many people can't find a reliable, properly calibrated and working orignal stock MAF under $300.

The translator and LS1 MAF solve that problem at a decent cost. :)

And with the proper chip affords more flexibility and tuning ability than many chips.

My #1 is a cupholder.

#2 is a sunglasses holder.

#3 is drive the car and learn to tune it up yourself, and then learn how it responds to all the parts dumped onto it. A scantool or two helps here.

Learning to tune the car is probably the best performance mod. you can make, and can save you the most money in the long run. :cool:
 
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