Top 10 Performance Upgrades

[Rob Scala]

I just recently purchased my first Grand National and want to start purchasing performance parts for it, but kinda new to the Buick scene. I already have a 9 sec. Turbocharged Stang, but this seems to be a little different, plus I really only want to get the Buick in the mid to low 11's.

I would greatly appreciate it if anyone could just run down some of the starting mods and maybe even the must do's or the dont even think about idea's. You know like what works and what doesnt.

THANKS in advance,
ROB

 

[azgn]

the short answer is go to www.gnttype.org and review the various recipie sections

 

[Rob Scala]

Some guys must have there own opinions on this stuff, I'm sure not everyone built their cars from gnttype.org recomendations.
Even just a few would be a great start.

Thanks again

 

[WarpSpeed]

That's true, although I did review what GNTTYPE listed afterward. It would have been helpful to read before I started, but it turned out ok.

 

[bigz]

Alcohol injection to run almost as fast on the street as you can at the track with race gas.

 

[GNANIMO]

Rob,

I am pretty new to the Buick scene as well, but here is what I have gathered so far:

Adjstable FPR
Bigger Fuel Pump and Hotwire kit
3" Downpipe
9" K&N
Thrasher Chip
Slicks
RJC Power Plate
High octane street fuel

Monitors:
Boost Gauge
Oil Pressure gauge
Knock Gauge
Scan Tool

The monitors are VERY important as they will tell you how you car is running better than your "butt dyno" will.

This stuff should get your into the low 13's high 12's when it is properly tuned.

 

[Nick Micale]

Originally posted by Rob Scala
Some guys must have there own opinions on this stuff, I'm sure not everyone built their cars from gnttype.org recomendations. Even just a few would be a great start.

Every one has their own opinion. The info on the gnttype web site is from guys that have spent thousands of dollars and hours over the past 15+ years to find out what works and what does not. If you are looking for a "magic" receipe, let me know when you find it!

Getting into the mid/low 11's is not easy or in-expensive. A couple blown head gaskets, trans parts, and other items need to be factored into the budget. If you did a 9 sec Mustang, none of this should be new to you. Going fast is NOT cheap or easy. But the best way to get there is following "opinions" of the guys who have done it.

 

[blackbuick87]

Will need another turbo and injectors for mid/low 11's, probably a PT52 or 54 and a set of MSD 50's

 

[UNGN]

Low twelves, high 11's is very easy an requires relatively low skill and parts even with a stock long block. Faster than this with a stock longblock and you start having to run high boost for a stock long block (above 24 psi). Lots of people do, but the odds of blowing a head gasket increase tremendously. Sooo ... To do mid to low 11's properly, you really need to go into the motor and port the heads. Mid to low 11's is where things like stock transmissions and stock rear axles are prone to breakage, too.

If it costs about 2 times the costs to run low 12's, high 11's to go to mid 11's to low 11's in parts and breakage replacement. That's just the way these cars are.

With a big turbo, Front mount intercooler, Large injectors, 3200 stall converter, 28" tall slicks, 3" downpipe to dump, you can run mid to low 11's fairly easily at 27 psi of boost. With ported heads it will run the same at 22 psi.

 

[ThikStik]

UNGN,
So if ported heads et the same at 22psi as the same car w/out ported heads at 27 psi, does that also mean that the engine will like life better on the lower 22 psi? I would think the gaskets would be safer, but the rest of motor would still be stressed equally as hp is hp. Or, is equal hp produced with lower psi a better thing from a stress standpoint?
Then theres the lower heat produced at lower psi which is a good thing.

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by rick cain
UNGN,
So if ported heads et the same at 22psi as the same car w/out ported heads at 27 psi, does that also mean that the engine will like life better on the lower 22 psi? I would think the gaskets would be safer, but the rest of motor would still be stressed equally as hp is hp. Or, is equal hp produced with lower psi a better thing from a stress standpoint?
Then theres the lower heat produced at lower psi which is a good thing.

The head gaskets are safer, true, but the crank is safer also. Lower boost provides a octane cushion. Where 110 octane might result in no knock at 22 psi (assume proper fueling) but at 27 psi it might give enough knock to break the crank. Uneven loading is more likely to break parts steady state HP increases. This is why people who "tune for no knock" can have cars live much longer than anyone would guess. Tim stockwell ran 10's with a stock longblock with the boost turned up to "11", while others have driven over their cranks on the street running pump gas in 13 second trim.

The stress that kills our engines the quickest is when 5 pistons are going one way and the sixth is forced to go the other way. The resulting stress this creates is enormous. If the stress is high enough, something has to give. Giving the motor more octane than it needs helps prevent this. If the motor "needs" 118 octane because of the boost it is running, its pretty hard to give it more.