trouble with getting her to start

trixdout

Active Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2012
So car is not starting again. Key on, engine off, I checked pin P and M on the 14 pin plug to the ignition module. Pin P gets 0.128 volts, and pin M gets 0.050 volts.

Coil pak towers ohm to 12.2k-12.4k. I think I get spark. Check out the video.

You can see the noid light on cylinder 1. After plugging that back into the injector, i tried multiple times as in the video to start, same outcome.

The ring under the cap of the cam sensor has a little play but does not move totally freely. Maybe has about 1/32"-1/16" of play. My measuring is really off when not using a tape measure or calipers or anything.

Grounds have been relocated to the firewall via the ground extensions kit from caspers.

Not sure where to go with this car. Ecms were checked out by Mr. Bailey and they are good. Mafs are good, rotated between 2 lt1 mafs and the stock maf with adjusting the settings to the translator pending whether I put in the tt chip or extender extreme. Swapped out two different ecms.

Anyone got any tips on what the cause could be based on the video. Yes i do know of the no start tree and have been consulting that. I've been always weary of electronics in cars and where to actually test from. I do have a good tester handy (father's an electrician).

I only have myself for now to test things, don't have an extra set of hands to crank the car or anything.

 
Have you checked your fuel pressure? If that checks out I would get a new or a know good cam sensor and re time the engine, any play on a cam sensor on these cars is never a good thing.
 
johnny's86nash said:
i second the fuel issue. when you turn the key to the on position (engine off) do you here te fuel pump?

Yes I do have fuel pressure, pump sounds an woks when key is on engine off.

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trixdout said:
Yes I do have fuel pressure, pump sounds an woks when key is on engine off.

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Are you measureing the pressure or just pushing the shrader valve on the fuel rail? How much pressure do you have? Does it stay constant when you turn the key off?
 
TexasT said:
Are you measureing the pressure or just pushing the shrader valve on the fuel rail? How much pressure do you have? Does it stay constant when you turn the key off?

I get over 40 pounds. It stays constant after, I have a gauge on the Schader port with Schader valve removed.

Better question, how do I check the cam/crank sensors with a volt meter? While cranking motor? Which pins on what plug?

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I think you need a scope to watch the cam and crank sensors. My car cranks and cranks. I watch the injector pulse and It comes on late. I don't know why. It will run and my fuel press. is fine. Maybe your ECM is not switching to SFI mode.
 
Really started brainstorming.... Got the car to run and idle. Tomorrow I will start swapping parts over to see exactly what caused the issue.

Thank you for the responses!!! Really appreciate it!!!!

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Pin p and m should have 12vdc key on engine off.

What cam sensor cap are you running? L.E.D.?
 
TurboBuRick said:
Pin p and m should have 12vdc key on engine off.

What cam sensor cap are you running? L.E.D.?

Do not believe so. It's definitely not an LED cap. Pretty sure it's the original own one, but unsure of how to designate which brand it is. Definitely did not have 12vdc on those two pins with key on. Each separately to the ground on the firewall.

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TurboBuRick said:
P is ecm/ign fuse

M is ccci fuse

Both are in the fuse panel. Make sure those are good.

Checked every fuse in the panel all are good. I checked ones that had nothing to do with ccci or ign or fuel or anything. By 3 pm eastern time I should have it figured out why it didn't want to start.

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So guys I finally got to the conclusion of which part exactly was causing my issue of not starting. I'm guessing on how it happened. The part at fault was the calpak chip in the ecm. All my other parts worked fine (ecm, coilpak, ignition module). I'm assuming the bad connection in the powerlogger, which later was fixed by Mr. Bailey, was causing the calpak chips to short or crap out.

On a side note, I got the powerlogger back on the ecm and connected to my laptop. Works like a charm and exactly what it is supposed to do.
 
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