trunk mounted battery

chasmat2316

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2006
I'm looking to mount my battery in the trunk & looking for ideas on mounting. thinking of using the spare well. anyone have pics or ideas?
 
I mounted mine to the right of the spare tire well. That way the bolts go into the frame rail.
 
75/25 street/track
If you intend track time, once you move it, there comes a list of other mods that must be done.
Anchor to the frame w/3/8" bolts.
Kill sw at rear of car. Positive side.
Alt power wire has to be hooked thru the kill sw..
Rear trunk area, behind the seat, has to be sealed off. Wet cell batt.
A wet cell batt has to be in a sealed box w/vent line outside the trunk.

Still want one???
 
This is the set-up in my race car with 2 batteries which has been great for years as I never have an issue with enough power for an entire day at the track.

One of my street cars has a single battery in the trunk as well.

It is important to run both positive and negative to the front of the car to 2 distribution junction blocks, one positive , one negative.

Do NOT use the frame or body for any power or ground path as we found years ago it will cause issues.

BATTERY IN TRUNK.jpg
 
This is the set-up in my race car with 2 batteries which has been great for years as I never have an issue with enough power for an entire day at the track.

One of my street cars has a single battery in the trunk as well.

It is important to run both positive and negative to the front of the car to 2 distribution junction blocks, one positive , one negative.

Do NOT use the frame or body for any power or ground path as we found years ago it will cause issues.

View attachment 262286
Nick would you have any pic's of the single batt mounted in your street car?
also it doesn't look like your batt mount goes to the frame , do you ever get hassled by tech ?
 
The NHRA rule states the box must be "bolted to the frame or frame structure".

My battery lower frame is bolted into the wheel well on both cars with 4 3/8" bolts with doubler plates on the outside, and I have never been hassled by tech.

Both upper and lower frames are 1/8" angle steel.
 
We never use the frame for any ground as this becomes a "bottleneck" for current returning to the battery.

If you have a stranded copper wire supplying DC power to a electrical part, you must have the equivalent wire returning to the battery.

The rusty, low carbon steel frame components provides a very crappy conductor compared to the copper wire as both supply and ground legs must conduct equally or you then have a restriction in the circuit.

If the battery is in the trunk, run a very heavy gauge ground wire to a junction block up front or near the engine, and you can do the same with the power side.
 
I have no clue what a "full floating" ground is?

However I do know a DC circuit MUST return to the battery, and any restriction or resistance can and will hinder the function or operation of an electrical item. It may work, but not at its best.

On a race car, all components must work at its best to be reliable and consistent, a street car is not as demanding.

This thread is about a trunk mounted battery, so my assumption is we are discussing high performance GN's! ;)
 
A floating ground means that nothing at all ever grounds to the frame. Not the battery, engine, or any components.
 
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