Tubular upper a arms

[we4Mateo]

Upper tubular control arm part number 910-34394 L. plug the number into the search on Speedway.

Just ordered two lefts. What's the part # for the longer ball joints? I'm going to order the longer ones and stock and use whichever works best. Tia

 

[we4Mateo]

Is this an obvious answer that I'm just missing? Sorry if it is but I know jack about suspension outside of my bushings are bad and I need new control arms.

Thanks for helping a brotha' out if there is anyone that can help.

 

[Pittsburghkid]

I ordered these taller lowers since they don't cost as much but still seem comparable to the howe's. Only problem I had to buy dust boots separately.

https://lefthanderchassis.com/v2a/viewproduct_group.asp?idgroup=2512666

 

[charlief1]

Just ordered two lefts. What's the part # for the longer ball joints? I'm going to order the longer ones and stock and use whichever works best. Tia

Well here's the numbers for the top and the bottom. Either go with just a 1/2" or a total of 1" but don't go 1.5" total. That can cause some issues in the end.
1/2" longer upper ball joint part number 106-200322LF. Speedway.
1/2" longer lower ball joint part number 001127750. Howe.
1" longer lower ball joint part number 0011277100. Howe.

 

[we4Mateo]

Well here's the numbers for the top and the bottom. Either go with just a 1/2" or a total of 1" but don't go 1.5" total. That can cause some issues in the end.
1/2" longer upper ball joint part number 106-200322LF. Speedway.
1/2" longer lower ball joint part number 001127750. Howe.
1" longer lower ball joint part number 0011277100. Howe.

Thank you sir.

 

[we4Mateo]

Well here's the numbers for the top and the bottom. Either go with just a 1/2" or a total of 1" but don't go 1.5" total. That can cause some issues in the end.
1/2" longer upper ball joint part number 106-200322LF. Speedway.
1/2" longer lower ball joint part number 001127750. Howe.
1" longer lower ball joint part number 0011277100. Howe.

Thanks again.

Another question. I have your recommended alignment settings bookmarked. You've noted that it will wear the inner tire a little faster but drive better. I'm wearing the inner tire now and do like the way it handled before the front end and body bushings got old. I'm redoing that stuff and realigning this Spring. What alignment specs would you use if I didn't want to wear the front inner tire so badly? And what will that change about the handling characteristics? FYI, I have 245/50/16s up front on 16x8 Enkei gnx style wheels.

Last question, I'm thinking of NOT replacing the front swaybar bushings and endlinks as I have a pretty stout rear sway bar that seems to be doing the job. Any opinions on this notion?

 

[charlief1]

Another question. I have your recommended alignment settings bookmarked. You've noted that it will wear the inner tire a little faster but drive better. I'm wearing the inner tire now and do like the way it handled before the front end and body bushings got old. I'm redoing that stuff and realigning this Spring. What alignment specs would you use if I didn't want to wear the front inner tire so badly? And what will that change about the handling characteristics? FYI, I have 245/50/16s up front on 16x8 Enkei gnx style wheels.

It's a catch 22 Matt. With the camber between .1 and -.1 degrees (same on both sides) you get the least edge wear on the tires. Once you add the higher caster angles then the ackerman and camber curves take effect. Optimum to reduce overall tire wear would be 3 degrees total on passenger side and .4 to .5 lower reading on the drivers side. Not the best for handling but it reduces the edge wear.

Last question, I'm thinking of NOT replacing the front swaybar bushings and endlinks as I have a pretty stout rear sway bar that seems to be doing the job. Any opinions on this notion?

I'd at least replace the end links once all the mods have been done and you can make sure that the front bar is level to the ground. I'll bet the ones you have now will have the bar tilted up some.

 

[we4Mateo]

It's a catch 22 Matt. With the camber between .1 and -.1 degrees (same on both sides) you get the least edge wear on the tires. Once you add the higher caster angles then the ackerman and camber curves take effect. Optimum to reduce overall tire wear would be 3 degrees total on passenger side and .4 to .5 lower reading on the drivers side. Not the best for handling but it reduces the edge wear.

I'd at least replace the end links once all the mods have been done and you can make sure that the front bar is level to the ground. I'll bet the ones you have now will have the bar tilted up some.

Thanks brosive.