Tuning help w/ Trans+/extender & SMC alchy combo

[The Darkside]

Ok, although my car seems to run really good, but I'm having problems after I get into 4th gear.I've got the big mouth cold air kit & when my car hits 4th I can hear that cone filter going ch,ch,ch,ch etc & I'm getting a puff of black smoke out the pipe.Car seems to chug & slow down alot. I've got my setting on the translator+ on/on/off/off.My base setting for maf is 0n 3, at wot full setting is on 0, spark base & wot spark are in the 0 position.
Smc kit is a single nozzle, set to spray @ 15lb.s boost, pump speed is set @ 8.
Boost is currently @ 23 and fuel pressure is @ 39 line off. My blm's & int. are both@ 128-130 @ idle.
My plugs are NGK UR-5's, gapped @ .032.
From a 30 mph punch my 02's start around 850 & at the top of 3rd they're @ 770 or so.
Knock during these runs usually 0.
I've got the extender chip set up for 23/21 degrees. It's a 98 octane chip for alchy.

Please look this information over & if you have any suggestions, please give them to me.Like I said earlier, the car runs great until overdrive, so I know it can run better.

ps: I noticed something else about my chip. The code on the extender chip says that I've got a 200-208 cam, but I don't, I have the stock cam. The only difference I can see between the stock cam program & the 200-208 cam program is that the idle on stock cam is 750 & the 200-208 cam is 800.They both have a 5800 rev limiter. Could this possibly be any problem?

Thanks, The Darkside

 

[U1ARUNIT]

Can't offer any help with the chugging problem unless you have a Direct Scan file that you can send. U1arunit@aol.com

I think that the idle spec just uses those cam numbers as a reference. My last extender was set for 210/205 cam(which I have) and an idle of 850rpm. For the latest revision E chip I wanted only 800rpm idle so I got a 208/208 spec.

 

[The Darkside]

I just came back in from checking over the motor compartment looking for any loose hoses or whatever. I did find that my vacuum block was leaking. I took it off & cleaned the oil off the gasket & dog house & then reinstalled it. It sure looks as though my pcv is sure blowing some oil into my throttle body & was wondering if anyone thinks that or the vacuum block leak could have anything to do with my tuning issues? The pcv is a brand new GM part, so what would make it blow oil?
Another thought: Does anyone think that the /chugging/bogging/black smoke @ high boost could be unburned fuel that was caused by my spark being drowned out or blown out? Maybe I should try & tighten up my plug gap to .030. What do you guys think?



Please help if you can,

The Darkside

 

[TurboBob]

you could be drowning in alky. I suggest getting the tune right with real octane. Get the car running right at 22+ psi on at least 50/50 race gas and unleaded. Then turn the boost back down to 20 and turn the alky on a little. Work back up from there.

Make sure your ignition system is working up to snuff as well. Plugs, wires, etc.

What kind of alky are you running?

The TE44 is prone to part throttle surging. Are you backing out of the throttle?

Bob

 

[The Darkside]

Bob,
I'm running denatured alchy & been experimenting with both a 70/30 mix & 100% denatured. Car seems a little leaner w/ the 70/30 mix.
The NGK UR-5 plugs are brand new gapped @ .032, The plug wires are brand new AC-DELCO from GM & the coil pack tested good.
I'm not letting off the gas a WOT, believe me, I'm trying to push it through the floorboard!!
I know alot of alchy tuners say to turn on the alchy 2lbs. before they normally see knock w/ just pump gas, which for me is around 17lbs. What is your personal opinion as far as how to determine what the turn on point & alchy speed should be?



Thanks, The Darkside

 

[TurboBob]

Mine is set to come on at about 14.

Turn your pump speed down a little, I think your drowning it. Run 100% denatured
and set your MAF WOT switch to E.

I run my car like this at about 24 psi on 93 octane.

So far so good.

Bob

 

[The Darkside]

Bob,
I'll give it a try & post back soon. It's been raining a little this morning, so I'll have to see if the highways are dry enough to sneak a run in


Thanks!!!

The Darkside

 

[The Darkside]

ok Bob, I did as you suggested & turned the WOT maf to "E" which is 4% lean & then turned the alchy speed down to 7 w/ turn on point somewhere around 14 & made another run.The run was from 30 mph up to 105+ mph. Here are some #'s.

boost was set @24

TPS was @ 4.76 throughout run

o2's started @832 & came down to a scary 727

MAF #'s started @ 176 but dropped to 126 when 4th gear engaged (interesting)

Knock was 0 throughout run until I shifted into 4th gear & then I saw 3 degrees of knock .Car was running @ 4876 rpm's when I shifted it into 4th gear & the rpm's dropped down to 3400. Probably not a good thing to do?

I programed the chip to lock the convertor @ 85 mph which it did.

The car did not chug/sputter/bog as bad as before, but it did act up a little. Maybe we're going in the right direction, but I'd be scared to lean out the WOT maf anymore. What do you think I should try next?



Thanks for your continued help,

The Darkside

 

[TurboBob]

RPMs are dropping too far. Leave the shifter in D or turn the WOT TCC off.

The O2 sensor sounds low, perhaps your fuel pump is not keeping up....
Battery volts at WOT, hotwire kit / voltage booster/?

Keep the RPM's up, Set the WOT fuel up to F. Try again.

We're getting there.

Bob

 

[The Darkside]

Bob, my battery volts @ WOT are in the 13.1-13.4 range. Fuel pump is a Walbro 307 & it's hot wired.

Earlier I took a couple wot runs from 60 mph to when it shifts by itself into 4th gear & the problem is still there. Besides the bogging etc, it also sounds just like my air filter is chattering real bad @ the 3-4 shift.
It's strange how it runs great & pulls really hard until it hits 4th & then these problems pop up.
I'll do what you suggested & disable the tcc lockup @ wot & set the maf wot to "F" & post back a lttle later.
For what it's worth, I was running in drive till I got to 107 mph(according to my scan tool),when I manually shifted it into 4th gear & that's when it started the bogging/chugging, etc. thing.


Thanks again, The Darkside

 

[JeffG]

Darkside,
If you don't already (at least I didn't see it posted) you need to be using an EGT gauge and take the o2 readings with a grain of salt. At least that is what I have found. O2's may indicate a very lean condition as compared to running gas alone, but if your EGT's are in line all is good.
Like Bob has said, it looks like your just drowning the motor. I wouldn't push it too hard until you know where you are with an EGT of some type or another.
I know if my car was under a full load and I shifted it to the next gear and it pulled down to 3400rpm..........with the converter locked (as you stated) it would pig rich. Probably right on the edge of doing the chuging you described....even with my alky correctly tuned in for a 5600rpm pass. Looks like your over that edge just a bit.

Good luck!

 

[The Darkside]

JeffG,
I think you're right about me needing an EGT gauge & so I'm going to look into the SMC EGT setup tomorrow.
I know the car has alot left in it, it's just hard when you have to tune so many things to find your optimal settings. I've got the SMC kit,The Trans.+ & extender chip on top of boost & fuel pressure. Maybe the EGT gauge can help eliminate some of the air/fuel guess work.



Thanks, The Darkside

PS: Does your ID name mean you're a #24 fan?

 

[turbotoyz]

TTT

 

[JeffG]

Darkside......
Not a #24 fan. It's just my first name and last initial. Nothing too fancy or cryptic.
Glad to see you have an EGT gauge on the way, or at least will pretty quickly. It should help you out a lot.

 

[The Darkside]

Well Bob, you might be right about the fuel pump not keeping up. I just got back from taking another run with the wot maf set at "F" & disabled the tcc lock up & this time I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to my car & ran it up under my wiper so I could watch it & the result that stands out is :

fuel pressure line off @ 39 lbs.
Boost 24lbs.
----------
Shouldn't my Fuel pressure be 63lbs. @ wot? I think so , but it only got up to 58lbs @ wot!!!! Well, what do I do now? Fuel pump is a hotwired Walbro 307 & it's about 3 or 4 years old, so maybe it's taking a dump on me. Maybe it's a clogged fuel filter or something else. I will go ahead & change the filter & see if that helps. How do I check for voltage @ the pump?



The Darkside

 

[Dan Thompson]

I would think your fuel pressure should be around #42-43 with hose off.

 

[The Darkside]

The car runs rich @ idle with fuel pressure @ 42 line & @ 39 line off my int. & blm's are @ a perfect 128.



The Darkside

 

[ronbuick]

Are you using a solid maf tube or the stock one, if you are using the stock one it is possible that it could be collapsing in you,
Ron

 

[The Darkside]

ronbuick,
It's a solid pipe.


*I just want to say thanks to all who are giving me help. One of the best parts of owning a Turbo Buick is the way everyone here on the Buick Board takes time out to try & help other members fix & tune on these awesome cars. With your help, I know my car will be running great soon!!! I just hope that I can return the help when you guys need it.



The Darkside

 

[cmokem]

Have you tried a volt booster...just a thought

Bob