Tuning Questions

[nullrout]

So here is what I got:

I pulled the plugs. They all looked consistent and good...according to my limited knowledge and google skills...plugs looked a little rich but I knew that.

Changed the plugs while they were out and gapped at about .32.

Tested with the same setup as before and same small KNR periods.

Took 2.1 degrees of timing out of 3/4 and the knock went away. So I guess I got my answer...that knock was real and was too much timing for the octane.

I turned the boost up a couple of pounds...and it promptly starting to rain on me so done for now. Maybe later tonight or tomorrow morning we'll see what we have.

 

[Mr.Spool]

So here is what I got:

I pulled the plugs. They all looked consistent and good...according to my limited knowledge and google skills...plugs looked a little rich but I knew that.

Changed the plugs while they were out and gapped at about .32.

Tested with the same setup as before and same small KNR periods.

Took 2.1 degrees of timing out of 3/4 and the knock went away. So I guess I got my answer...that knock was real and was too much timing for the octane.

I turned the boost up a couple of pounds...and it promptly starting to rain on me so done for now. Maybe later tonight or tomorrow morning we'll see what we have.

Well done.knock free pulls are less expensive

 

[nullrout]

Well, KNR came back. I got to 24 PSI (my goal) and the KNR showed up so I subtracted another degree to get to -3.2 * in 3/4 and still had 1.2 degrees of KNR. I then turned it down another degree to -4.2 degrees, made another run and still had 1.2 degrees of KNR.

Now in my mind if I have 1.2 degrees of KNR and I take 1 degree out, shouldn't I see no more than .2 degrees of KNR or does it not really work that way?

 

[Mr.Spool]

Well, KNR came back. I got to 24 PSI (my goal) and the KNR showed up so I subtracted another degree to get to -3.2 * in 3/4 and still had 1.2 degrees of KNR. I then turned it down another degree to -4.2 degrees, made another run and still had 1.2 degrees of KNR.

Now in my mind if I have 1.2 degrees of KNR and I take 1 degree out, shouldn't I see no more than .2 degrees of KNR or does it not really work that way?

DI'd you maintain the afr when you increased the boost?or did it start to leannout?

 

[nullrout]

It leaned out a little, I was at 10.9 with 24 PSI when I got the KNR...I know all cars like different stuff, what target AFR should I be using to stay "safe"?

 

[nullrout]

By the way, thanks to all who take the time to reply to such newbie questions

 

[Mr.Spool]

It leaned out a little, I was at 10.9 with 24 PSI when I got the KNR...I know all cars like different stuff, what target AFR should I be using to stay "safe"?

Add the fuel back in

 

[The Granny]

10.9 AFR at 24 psi seems just a little lean for a single nozzle.. I'd try a 10.6 and test it on that. I'm not as experienced as others but from what I've read you want to run it as rich as possible especially at high boost to keep the cylinder temps down, which in the end could help to suppress your knock. in your scenario, I would recommend lowering the AFR until you get 0 knock. from there lower it until MPH starts to decrease/you lose horsepower. that way in the worst case scenario, say your alky pump fails, your AFR won't spike too high and lead to a catastrophic failure. maybe someone more experienced can chime in on this train of thought?


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[Mr.Spool]

Well, KNR came back. I got to 24 PSI (my goal) and the KNR showed up so I subtracted another degree to get to -3.2 * in 3/4 and still had 1.2 degrees of KNR. I then turned it down another degree to -4.2 degrees, made another run and still had 1.2 degrees of KNR.

Now in my mind if I have 1.2 degrees of KNR and I take 1 degree out, shouldn't I see no more than .2 degrees of KNR or does it not really work that way?

If the car is moving more air it needs more fuel not just a timing adjustment

 

[Mr.Spool]

It leaned out a little, I was at 10.9 with 24 PSI when I got the KNR...I know all cars like different stuff, what target AFR should I be using to stay "safe"?

Remember your trying to keep all the cylinders happy and the wideband is not seeing and reporting individual cylinders but all of them.

 

[The Granny]

one thing I can't find is how much timing you're running, I see you decreasing it though. what do you have it set to right now?


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[wb_7354]

I haven't seen anyone mentioning to verify fuel pressure. Also my alky pump starts to go away every 2-3 years. It needs to be checked regularly to make sure that it's good. Also you said the car sat for 2 years. Does it have fresh gas in it now? Your plugs should be gapped to .026-.028 What is your base fuel pressure set to? Also check for any vacuum leaks. I'm putting my money on the alky pump!


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