Tuning Questions

nullrout

Member
Okay, I think this is the right forum...


I've recently decided I'm finally going to get my car running better. I've never really had a chance to tune as every time I got stuff "right" something else would go wrong.


My combo is in the sig and is current/accurate. I currently have the Alky gain set at 4.


I noticed before that I was way rich (9.5 to 9.7\ish at WOT) on the Wideband so I removed WOT fuel from the chip, I think -14.8%. That got my O2s into more reasonable territory, still really rich just not as rich, into the low to mid tens.


While I was doing all this I’m noticing a small bit of KNR. I usually go out and wait for traffic to clear and do a quick pull or two if I have time. I’m noticing a pattern. Typically the first run has ZERO KNR. Then the KNR shows up in the second and third pulls. When it does happen, it is only a degree or so, usually starting with a spike around 1.5 degrees then tapers off to nothing in about 18 frames or so. Sometimes it does the same thing about 10 frames later. These are all in third gear and near the end of my runs where I’m close (but not yet) to letting off cause I’m going too fast for the street. My logs say around 75 MPH is where it starts but my speedo is off a little and 75 MPH is more like 64 MPH. I’m letting out around 95 MPH indicated which is more like 80.


My chip is burned for 22 pounds of boost, I’m only at 19 on my gauge and I’m RICH even having removed fuel. I don’t want to hurt anything and I hear nor feel any knock or I would have let out of it. How am I getting KNR? Is it possibly rich knock from still being at 10.2 AFR when the last KNR occurred?


I really appreciate any help you can offer a long time owner, but new tuner =)


Dan
 
Here they are. The "quick save" file shows the small periods of KNR.

I hadn't thought of heat soak...they were probably within at most two minutes apart. I just thought it was weird how whenever I got KNR...it was on multiple different tries it always looked the same, quick spike then tapered off. Maybe it's normal, it just struck me as odd because other times I've seen KNR it was just kinda random up down squiggle.
 

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Okay, I think this is the right forum...


I've recently decided I'm finally going to get my car running better. I've never really had a chance to tune as every time I got stuff "right" something else would go wrong.


My combo is in the sig and is current/accurate. I currently have the Alky gain set at 4.


I noticed before that I was way rich (9.5 to 9.7\ish at WOT) on the Wideband so I removed WOT fuel from the chip, I think -14.8%. That got my O2s into more reasonable territory, still really rich just not as rich, into the low to mid tens.


While I was doing all this I’m noticing a small bit of KNR. I usually go out and wait for traffic to clear and do a quick pull or two if I have time. I’m noticing a pattern. Typically the first run has ZERO KNR. Then the KNR shows up in the second and third pulls. When it does happen, it is only a degree or so, usually starting with a spike around 1.5 degrees then tapers off to nothing in about 18 frames or so. Sometimes it does the same thing about 10 frames later. These are all in third gear and near the end of my runs where I’m close (but not yet) to letting off cause I’m going too fast for the street. My logs say around 75 MPH is where it starts but my speedo is off a little and 75 MPH is more like 64 MPH. I’m letting out around 95 MPH indicated which is more like 80.


My chip is burned for 22 pounds of boost, I’m only at 19 on my gauge and I’m RICH even having removed fuel. I don’t want to hurt anything and I hear nor feel any knock or I would have let out of it. How am I getting KNR? Is it possibly rich knock from still being at 10.2 AFR when the last KNR occurred?


I really appreciate any help you can offer a long time owner, but new tuner =)


Dan
Alky is used to suppress knock,with the gain down to 4 it could make the system lazy to come in and you are decreasing your octane blanket.i would turn the gain back to 6 and tune Afr around the alky.just cause your Afr is rich doesn't mean the car is getting the right amount of octane.
 
Personally if it where my car I would put the fuel back to where it was and put the alky on 6 and pull a few degrees of timing out and test for a clean or hit.if it's good the start adding in the boost.if your really going to start pushing things and learning to tune pulling and reading the plugs is the best way.
 
Alky is used to suppress knock,with the gain down to 4 it could make the system lazy to come in and you are decreasing your octane blanket.i would turn the gain back to 6 and tune Afr around the alky.just cause your Afr is rich doesn't mean the car is getting the right amount of octane.

Don Cruz installed my kit and set it up, he had it set it at 4. I tried turning it up to 6 as I had read Julio's posts saying that is the normal starting point and usually works on most cars. So I turned it to 6 and had the same pattern of KNR. If the general consensus is 6, then I'll turn it back and up and try to re-tune.

When you say octane, shouldn't I have enough? The chip was burned for my current setup and 24 PSI. I'm at 19 PSI and currently trying to work my way up to wherever I land on a safe street tune. I'm just trying to understand the process.

I understand what you're saying about charge temps...is the super strech SLIC too little for my combo in Florida? I'm not opposed to going to a FMIC, but at the same time I'd rather not spend money chasing my tail if it isn't necessary.
 
Personally if it where my car I would put the fuel back to where it was and put the alky on 6 and pull a few degrees of timing out and test for a clean or hit.if it's good the start adding in the boost.if your really going to start pushing things and learning to tune pulling and reading the plugs is the best way.

With my fuel at its default and 20 PSI I was super rich, like sitting at 9.5 to 9.7. So, you think I should turn it back up, timing down and start from there?

I haven't looked at my plugs in a while but I'm a novice when it comes to plugs...not really sure what I'm looking at or for. I do know they are autolite 23's and don't have very many miles on them. They and the wires were new before I had transmission problems that grounded me for a couple of years (long story). If memory serves me, they were gapped at 32 or 35...I can't remember which...I really need to start writing $hi+ down!
 
Don Cruz installed my kit and set it up, he had it set it at 4. I tried turning it up to 6 as I had read Julio's posts saying that is the normal starting point and usually works on most cars. So I turned it to 6 and had the same pattern of KNR. If the general consensus is 6, then I'll turn it back and up and try to re-tune.

When you say octane, shouldn't I have enough? The chip was burned for my current setup and 24 PSI. I'm at 19 PSI and currently trying to work my way up to wherever I land on a safe street tune. I'm just trying to understand the process.

I understand what you're saying about charge temps...is the super strech SLIC too little for my combo in Florida? I'm not opposed to going to a FMIC, but at the same time I'd rather not spend money chasing my tail if it isn't necessary.
Should you? Hmm I don't like guessing but you could have assuming your fuel pumps and meth pump and volts are in order have you gapped down the plugs and dropped to a colder heat range?do you have a power plate?iwouldnt touch the intercooler yet especially without looking at the intake charge temps.its safe to say the more meth you give it the lower they go.
 
I should have asked...am I turning down the timing to see if is false knock? I'm asking because with regards to the previous heat soak comment, the runs were probably less than two minutes apart. I waited for traffic on a 6 lane divided hwy to clear, busted a u-turn and hammered it. I then coasted to another turnaround, waited for traffic to clear and did the same in the other direction. Temp was mid to high 80s at the time. I'm not sure if any of this information is helpful or not, but thought I'd add it.
 
Should you? Hmm I don't like guessing but you could have assuming your fuel pumps and meth pump and volts are in order have you gapped down the plugs and dropped to a colder heat range?do you have a power plate?iwouldnt touch the intercooler yet especially without looking at the intake charge temps.its safe to say the more meth you give it the lower they go.

Yes to the power plate, I added it to my sig. I know people either love or hate it...thoughts?
 
I should have asked...am I turning down the timing to see if is false knock? I'm asking because with regards to the previous heat soak comment, the runs were probably less than two minutes apart. I waited for traffic on a 6 lane divided hwy to clear, busted a u-turn and hammered it. I then coasted to another turnaround, waited for traffic to clear and did the same in the other direction. Temp was mid to high 80s at the time. I'm not sure if any of this information is helpful or not, but thought I'd add it.
Roll the throttle in 3rd and see.hammering it presents other issues that may not be tune related
 
Roll the throttle in 3rd and see.hammering it presents other issues that may not be tune related
Well I said hammer it but I'm probably rolling into it in second...should I be waiting until third to do so?

I like to take the center of the three lanes before getting into it in case anything crazy happens I have a lot of room in either direction. I"m probably at 35 by the time this happens. I had a car unexpectedly lose traction once when testing and almost biffed it hard because I was in the far right and spun almost off the road. I'm rambling...my point is I'm not flooring it from a standstill.
 
Well I said hammer it but I'm probably rolling into it in second...should I be waiting until third to do so?

I like to take the center of the three lanes before getting into it in case anything crazy happens I have a lot of room in either direction. I"m probably at 35 by the time this happens. I had a car unexpectedly lose traction once when testing and almost biffed it hard because I was in the far right and spun almost off the road. I'm rambling...my point is I'm not flooring it from a standstill.
Yes a 3 gear roll takes a lot of the drivetrain issues out of the data
 
Verify timing. Increase the Alky flow. Use the initial knob in very small increments. The chip is burned for way more mass flow than your engine is using that's why it's rich.


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Is the knock in 2nd or 3rd or on the 2/3 shift? Don't make 3 or 4 changes at once. Pull 2 deg from the 1/2 and see if it helps. If not take 2 from 3rd gear timing.
 
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