Turbo Buick FNG! Oh, Scanmaster data too...

[TurboDave]

I want the boost under ECM control. Picture of said T:

View attachment 193689

RemoveBeforeFlight

That's exactly how I like it!, well, sorta. Mine is under the control of the Translator Pro which most know adds a high degree of adjustability to many parameters of the stock ECM. My mostly stock 87 however uses the BstC, an external electronci open loop boost controller. But the stock Y lines and solenoid are all in place.

 

[x96283]

OK- so went out there and tinkered some more

• Redid every vac line I could find (kit from GBodyParts arrived a few days so good to knock that out). Replaced both check valves too. Wastegate solenoid, compressor and actuator lines already replaced.
• Verified that the grey Y- fitting off the wastegate solenoid was correct. The straight leg has the orifice plate and goes to the compressor, Y-leg to the wastegate actuator.
• Also sprayed carb cleaner around plenum vac block, throttle body and shaft seal area-- no rpm surges. Used some tubing as a stethoscope but didn't hear any telltales.
• Actuator arm has ample tension. When disconnected from the puck arm, the puck freely/ easily swings back and forth. Also the rod and puck arm about an .125 to .25 apart (guess this is the preload). Reinstalled arm to rod and put the clip back on.
• I took the hose off the wastegate solenoid and plugged the hose end (right near the elbow). Went for a drive and it was topping out at 8psi.

Next, should I remove the hose from the wastegate actuator completely and do a careful test drive (just until I see more than 12psi...)? Should I plug the open end once temporarily disconnected? Actuator unconnected should allow it to overboost, correct?

 

[626gn]

OK- so went out there and tinkered some more

• Redid every vac line I could find (kit from GBodyParts arrived a few days so good to knock that out). Replaced both check valves too. Wastegate solenoid, compressor and actuator lines already replaced.
• Verified that the grey Y- fitting off the wastegate solenoid was correct. The straight leg has the orifice plate and goes to the compressor, Y-leg to the wastegate actuator.
• Also sprayed carb cleaner around plenum vac block, throttle body and shaft seal area-- no rpm surges. Used some tubing as a stethoscope but didn't hear any telltales.
• Actuator arm has ample tension. When disconnected from the puck arm, the puck freely/ easily swings back and forth. Also the rod and puck arm about an .125 to .25 apart (guess this is the preload). Reinstalled arm to rod and put the clip back on.
• I took the hose off the wastegate solenoid and plugged the hose end (right near the elbow). Went for a drive and it was topping out at 8psi.

Next, should I remove the hose from the wastegate actuator completely and do a careful test drive (just until I see more than 12psi...)? Should I plug the open end once temporarily disconnected? Actuator unconnected should allow it to overboost, correct?

Pull the hose off the wastegate solenoid but don't plug it. If you plug it boost will be low.

 

[x96283]

Ah ok, makes sense. Because with it disconnected yet plugged, the compressor air is still engaging the actuator. Time to make a test run! Cool evening temps!

Gotta go to the airport so a win win to troubleshoot on the way...

 

[x96283]

Test run complete.

With the solenoid disconnected, I saw boost over 10-11psi. I took it up to 15psi to be sure and that was it.

So instead of threading my actuator rod or buying a premade adj version, I can just install an MBC and tuck the stock solenoid out of sight? It's between an RJC or Grimmspeed at this point then.

I'll have to wait until next week to get underneath the car and inspect for header/ crossover leaks. After replacing the cruise vac line, I noticed that my funny "surge" when engaging cruise is gone... very smooth now. Next will be to take a close look at the PCV and its hose. Remove, inspect and replace if needed. I've got family in town so carving time out for the car will be tricky.

 

[626gn]

Test run complete.

With the solenoid disconnected, I saw boost over 10-11psi. I took it up to 15psi to be sure and that was it.

So instead of threading my actuator rod or buying a premade adj version, I can just install an MBC and tuck the stock solenoid out of sight? It's between an RJC or Grimmspeed at this point then.

I'll have to wait until next week to get underneath the car and inspect for header/ crossover leaks. After replacing the cruise vac line, I noticed that my funny "surge" when engaging cruise is gone... very smooth now. Next will be to take a close look at the PCV and its hose. Remove, inspect and replace if needed. I've got family in town so carving time out for the car will be tricky.

Installing an MBC would be a good choice at this point. Might even spool quicker. Keep the solenoid plugged in or it may throw a code. Glad u found your problem.

 

[x96283]

Ordered Grimmspeed MBC today (just like the looks and "click" function over RJC) and should have that soon.

Wouldn't ya know it... about 4 blocks from my place, the Powermaster gave up the ghost. Right on the main Waikiki drag and thankfully not on the highway. Luckily I was able to coast it out and just putt along without really using the brakes until I had to maneuver into my parking spot. Brake light on and hard pedal. Have Hydroboost parts on order so I can be done with the PM for good.

Awesome!

 

[x96283]

Alright- status update.

Grimmspeed MBC installed and I am in the processing of setting it to ~14-15psi. I'm doing some runs and seeing some KR, about 0.7 to 1.6, at ~17psi. I can do WOT testing at night, but it's about 50`F cooler at night than during the day, according to the SM ATS reading!!

Also, completed the Hydroboost swap two days ago with no major issues. I have a little whine post-swap and I'll continue to remove/ flush fluid a few more times just to get all the old stuff out.

Tomorrow will be to convert to a 160 tstat and distilled water/ RMI-25.

 

[626gn]

Hey Matt, glad to hear your brake swap went well. I gotta do mine one of these days. As mentioned before in a PM, the quality of gas in Hawaii is poor. 92 0ctane is very seldom 92 and usually tests somewhere around 89-90 and sometimes even less. Because of that you're likely to be stuck running low boost unless you go Alky or increase octane.

 

[x96283]

I'll be looking for an alky kit, once I'm sure that we've baselined the engine and it's running healthily. Since the last update, I've changed plugs CR43TS at .032, swapped out the tstat, installed a Powerlogger and added a better Autometer mech fuel pressure gauge.

Fuel pressure is rising along with boost- trying to hit 14-15psi and the gauge reflects a corresponding fuel pressure increase. Rolling into WOT has the boost gauge go up to 16psi or so then level off at 14psi a second later.

Sooo I've got a funny stumble just off idle, when cold, that I tried to capture. Today is only my first day with the PL so I'm still learning. A new post in the scan tech forum will be up shortly with my meager logfile!

Tomorrow I will tap the 2 bar MAP to add boost values to the PL, do an oil change/ ZDDP refill and wire in a Casper's audible knock setup. Time permitting, I'll dig into the doors and repair/ replace window components with a rattle kit.

 

[V6POWER]

I noticed in the pictures in post #9 that you still have the stock intercooler/up-pipe hoses/clamps. You will eventually need to change those as you start to run more boost because they have a tendency to blow off.
You sure have accomplished a lot with the car since your original post. I sure wish I was that fast with getting parts installed.

 

[626gn]

x2 on that!

 

[x96283]

Work gets put in when I can... plus having access to the vehicle lift on base is pretty hand. I just love working on a lift instead of a driveway!

Now probably looking at a WB a/f to round out my sensor package...