Type of engine oil

[SS_Sean]

I use Shell Rotella T 15W40 non synthetic and Lucas Oil Stabilizer.

+1

 

[cool 84]

Don't worry about the 02 sensors from ZDDP. They took it out of the oil when the feds upped the warranty on emission controls. There "may" be a link to zinc coating convertors in an oil burner but as long as your car doesn't burn oil, it doesn't matter.

I've been using Amsoil synthetic diesel ACD 30wt with lots of ZDDP in my TL almost since it was new and it's an ULEV car. Absolutely anything emissions related will set the check engine light yet I've had no problems in 63,000 miles.

 

[Junior Samples]

Rotella T here

 

[bsdlinux]

I run Royal Purple 20-50 in the White daily driver, no need to settle for anything less. And yes I have a flat tappet cam..LOL no worries with the RP
Valvoline Racing used to the be the S&*^ but you can hardly find it anymore

 

[cool 84]

I run Royal Purple 20-50 in the White daily driver, no need to settle for anything less. And yes I have a flat tappet cam..LOL no worries with the RP
Valvoline Racing used to the be the S&*^ but you can hardly find it anymore

RP has shown some very bad UOA reults. HTHS is usually very low.

 

[bsdlinux]

RP has shown some very bad UOA reults. HTHS is usually very low.

You are correct, its a good thing I don't pick an oil only for its HTHS rating LOL anyways... Some of the reason for that is that RP is usually thinner than what the viscosity on the bottle says. This is why I'm using the heavy 20-50w. To tell you the truth I've been looking to change over to Brad Penn Racing oil. People would know it as the old Kendall "green oil "brand , its partial synthentic and has ZDDP additives.

Having said that, RP is the only oil that I've used that comes out the same way it went it. Just a slippery, etc.

Mobil 1 , Castrol, Valvoline ( except VR1 ), etc, etc all came out NOT that way. Mobil 1 is way overrated. Maybe not for a garage queen car, but I drive my daily and its see what you would call "HARSH" driving conditions. Racing down the quarter mile on the weekends is not anything like driving on the street everyday in regards to running an oil through its paces.

I've used AMSoil before in another Buick, it is also was good but made my engine nosiy. I've haven't tried the the Redline but my guess it would be great as well.

 

[scojack_2001]

Ive been running Mobil-1 10w30 full synthetic in my GN since I bought it a year ago (its been a year already!? ), with no apparent problems. Im assuming its got the original cam as well. The only thing I dont like is the pressure when the oil is hot. Im currently not running a oil cooler, but will be soon.

Other than that, its been great. And I always use a AC filter too.

 

[Twistin6]

Taking money out of the eqaution if you were to choose which of these would you run? I am considering the Rotella T synthetic and the regualr Rotella T. I am understanding that a zinc additive should be used no matter which one I choose? Also where do I get this additive if needed? And which oil weight is ideal? I am in southwest VA as for climate. Not trying to hijack the thread it just seemed fitting for the info I'm seeking.

Thanks,

 

[Underboost]

Royal Purple XPR 10/40

This oil will separate the fuel from the oil & will also help the cylinder wash from the alky.
Royal Purple XPR Racing Oil

 

[turbojd]

If your looking for the ZDDP additive, Kirban performance sells it, or you could look on ebay I know some guys are selling it there.

 

[bsdlinux]

This oil will separate the fuel from the oil & will also help the cylinder wash from the alky.
Royal Purple XPR Racing Oil

+1 if money is no object


Almost all of the methanol circle track guys that I know use it and swear by it

Also most of these guys are on budgets and trust me if they thought Mobil 1 could do the job they wouls use it, but they dont.

Twistin6- I'm thinking about going to Brad Penn racing oil, you won't get much better than that for the price, add a lil ZDDP if you like but it comes with a crap load of it already. HTH

 

[ALVAROG1983]

i just changed my headgasket from my car overheating and used pennzoil 10-30w is this oil ok to run haven't started the car ate still new to this turbo buick want to make sure i'm going in the right track now that this oil question came up.

 

[White Out]

Either M1 10w30 or M1 5w30.

Nick

 

[turbo nasty]

Either M1 10w30 or M1 5w30.Nick

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

Might want to reconsider that oil after reviewing the chart..flat Tappet cam and Zddp wise

 

[White Out]

M1 5w30 - Fully synthetic formulation designed to meet the requirements of many domestic, including GM, and imported vehicles.

M1 10w30 - Fully synthetic formula designed for older domestics and imports.

Now I have been running M1 for years in all of my cars and never have had a problem. What is the reasoning why this is bad for the GN?

Nick

 

[Anthony P]

Nick,
it not that Mobil 1 is bad for any flat tappet cam engine, Mobil 1 is a great oil. However, Mobil 1 sold today is not the same Mobil 1 sold 10 years ago. the levels of zinc, phosphorus, etc. are much less today because the cars sold today do not need the quantity of those additives since the newer engines have roller cams.

And the additives will make the catalytic converter on your daily driver clog up after 75K miles or so. New car manufacturers have ever increasings warranty levels for catalytic converters - soon to be warrantied for 140K miles. So you can understand why the additive levels are being significantly reduced in today's market.

keep it simple...use any engine oil you want. just add a bottle of ZDDP and you are good to go.:biggrin:

 

[cool 84]

Nick,
it not that Mobil 1 is bad for any flat tappet cam engine, Mobil 1 is a great oil. However, Mobil 1 sold today is not the same Mobil 1 sold 10 years ago. the levels of zinc, phosphorus, etc. are much less today because the cars sold today do not need the quantity of those additives since the newer engines have roller cams.

And the additives will make the catalytic converter on your daily driver clog up after 75K miles or so. New car manufacturers have ever increasings warranty levels for catalytic converters - soon to be warrantied for 140K miles. So you can understand why the additive levels are being significantly reduced in today's market.

keep it simple...use any engine oil you want. just add a bottle of ZDDP and you are good to go.:biggrin:

Mostly true but the ZDDP and other additives are "rumored" to affect catalyst efficiency. If you have a sound motor with very little oil consumption it's not going to hurt the cat one bit. I've run a very robust oil in the TL from very early on in it's life with tons of ZDDP and I'm at 64,000. Mine is a ULEV car so it wants to throw a check engine light at the first sign of cat degradation and so far so good. FWIW, the engine looks brand new through the valvecover. It looks like you took a new motor that had never been run and dumped some oil on it.

 

[turbojd]

I run mobil 1 synthetic also,10w-30, but i now add the ZDDP additive because of lowered zinc and phosphorus levels. I to have ran this oil for 17 yrs. in my GN.

 

[86 got boost]

X2 been running M1 10/30 in all my vehicles too
99 grand am, 90+ miles, 96 riviera 170+ miles, GN I used since 2000
use lucas oil stable too
I say penzoil, slick 50, are junk my opinion,
been using GTX 10-40, to break in and ran before switching to synthetic

 

[cool 84]

You are correct, its a good thing I don't pick an oil only for its HTHS rating LOL anyways... Some of the reason for that is that RP is usually thinner than what the viscosity on the bottle says. This is why I'm using the heavy 20-50w. To tell you the truth I've been looking to change over to Brad Penn Racing oil. People would know it as the old Kendall "green oil "brand , its partial synthentic and has ZDDP additives.

Having said that, RP is the only oil that I've used that comes out the same way it went it. Just a slippery, etc.

Mobil 1 , Castrol, Valvoline ( except VR1 ), etc, etc all came out NOT that way. Mobil 1 is way overrated. Maybe not for a garage queen car, but I drive my daily and its see what you would call "HARSH" driving conditions. Racing down the quarter mile on the weekends is not anything like driving on the street everyday in regards to running an oil through its paces.

I've used AMSoil before in another Buick, it is also was good but made my engine nosiy. I've haven't tried the the Redline but my guess it would be great as well.

HTHS is pretty important in these high torque motors. I would be much more worried about that number than the viscosity.