U.S. Brakes Oversized GM Calipers

My cars both have the powermasters in them.

I am not done yet with the install, forgot to get wheel bearing grease and I hurt my back so I've been driving the GN for now, and won't get to do any more work until probably Wed.

I just started taking apart the second side and had to machine some new crush washers since the ID was a bit small, they don't sell them for the application, you need to bring your banjo bolt with you to get them the proper size.

The counter guy said they usually come with new hoses and aren't listed separtely in his books, he just stocks them in various sizes and I guessed a bit wrong. :rolleyes:

I have only used GM semi-metallic pads and one set of carquest semi-metallic replacements on that car, and of course the front wheels are stained a lot.

I would keep an eye on semi-metallic pads and any wheels you want to keep nice, I use cheesy cheap Mangels and American Racing rims since they are about as light as stock T's, come in decent widths etc., lighter than GN wheels (for my other car), and are a good strong daily driver street wheel unlike some other light weight racing wheels, and cheap of course.

A plus is the AR-23's even look good, unlike my other A.R. set which scream 1989. :p

I didn't really buy those pads to keep the wheels clean, I just thought they might be an upgrade from the GM stockers. I think someone from the other board recommended the Performance Friction name and I picked the most similar to what I thought would match the GM semi-metallic replacements.

And ordered them when I bought the new calipers.

However I did notice the surface area on them is much smaller length- wise than the semi-metallic pads that came off the car.

They have bevelled leading and trailing edges on them and less surface area to stop with.

Width is the same.

I will try to take some pictures of them tomorrow to show the differences.

I am sure there is a reason for it. :p :confused:

Having two turbo driver cars makes you a bit slower getting things done, and a lot less desperate in having to get anywhere. :biggrin:
 
salvageV6 said:
My cars both have the powermasters in them.
Good for you! :)

salvageV6 said:
I didn't really buy those pads to keep the wheels clean, I just thought they might be an upgrade from the GM stockers. I think someone from the other board recommended the Performance Friction name and I picked the most similar to what I thought would match the GM semi-metallic replacements.

And ordered them when I bought the new calipers.

However I did notice the surface area on them is much smaller length- wise than the semi-metallic pads that came off the car.

They have bevelled leading and trailing edges on them and less surface area to stop with.

Width is the same.
Just in case anyone is interested, I have used 1 set of Performance Friction Carbon metallic brake pads and will never use them again. On my boys' 99 Grand Am, they ruined a set of brand new rotors (from the 'Zoo) that I had installed at the same time. In about 5k miles, the outer pads cracked, came apart and wore down quickly. The inner pads just unevenly wore into the rotor. There was no metal to metal contact anywhere and the rotors looked like they had been run without pads for 2yrs. Deep, heavy grooves. It was ugly. I replaced the rotors again (the Zoo mgnr gave me another set), and put in stnd grade semi matallic and haven't had a problem since.

Salvage,
I hope you have better luck with this setup than I did mine on my boy's car.
 
you will find one problem useing these calipers ,on the inboard pad there is a anti rattle clip on the pad ,this clip was made to fit in a 2.5 inch piston ,now we have a 2.75 inch piston.thus the pad will be loose and probly rattle,i pulled a small bead of high temp silicone on pad where it sits on piston ,hopeing it will stop pad from rattleing when car is driven over bumps
 
Guess it's time to check out the pad fitment. :eek:

One more issue I guess. Copper RTV may work out fine.

Here is the pad comparison.

Hope I have better luck with them, US Brakes makes pads I guess they fit their calipers better but were racing pads and a lot more money.

It's always something.... :p

PerformanceFrictionvsStockBrakePads.jpg
 
maybe your better off not putting anythig ,but you will see that the clip does not hold the pad in the piston ,,,,its kind of a anti rattle clip,,,check it out
 
Here is the backside of the Performance Friction pads.

PerformanceFrictionCarbonMetallicPa.jpg


I also finished one side and took off the other side to finish after the next rain storm is through, hopefully by saturday it will be back on the road.

I think the spring clip fit okay in the caliper with these shoes they come with their own clip, and the anti-rattle plate is part of the shoe, not a separate metal piece like some aftermarket shoes have.

USCaliperandPerfFrictionPadsWe4D-1.jpg


USCaliperandPerfFrictionPadsWe4Driv.jpg


Yeah I know I use a lot of neverseize, at least it's the good stuff good to 2500 degrees. :p
 
I had some belt tensioner issues and noisy squeaking that I just took care of with a new Gates tensioner and had to go back to a stock length 060640 Gates belt to make it stop. It squeaked even with the new tensioner and the 060637 and 060635 belts from NAPA.

Anyway I may have to bleed the fronts again, but for now with about 15 miles on the setup I think you would be better off with new stock rotors and semi-metallic stock type pads rather than Perf. Friction pads and the new US Brake Calipers and older rotors.

I wouldn't do it again, not worth the trouble and effort over a good brake job in MHO.

If something changes when I bleed them again I will post back.
 
Here's what I did. I replaced the calipers with new remaned oems, installed drilled and slotted, ceramic pads and ss hoses. Car stops MUCH better.
 

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O BOY ,,I sure hope I have better results,,,car is on jack stands and brakes are all done,,,US CALIPERS ,,,,DRILLED AND SLOTTED DICS,,,,CERAMIC PADS ,COMPLETE NEW REAR DRUMS BIG CYLS,,ETC,,BUT WONT BE ABLE TO DRIVE FOR A WHILE,I WILL LET YOU KNOW
 
The new rotors will help the most. :smile:

Ceramic pads don't stop any better than semi-metallic, just less dust.

You should still see some good improvement with all new stuff. :cool:

Just make sure your front to rear braking is safe and even with a couple of open area panic type stops.
 
Well ,I have put on several hundred miles and all I can say is that my new brake set up is much better then befor PERIOD....NO MORE locking of rear wheels due to big rear wheel cylinders,braking distance shortened,no more clicking noise in prop valve ????PROBABLY equel pressure in valve now SOOO if any body wants to try the US METRIC BRAKE CALIPERS sold thru summits this the best bang for the buck in calipers .....NEW DISCS AND DRUMS ALSO.:eek:
 
Don't forget to paint them like I did before the install. :eek: :p

Before, well after 1 month of street driving use.

RustyUSBrakeCalper1.jpg



After, POR 15 black semi-gloss. :cool:

PaintedUSBrakeCaliper.jpg


You'd be better off with new pads, stock GM semi-metallic, and new rotors over using these calipers in MHO.

Maybe they are prone to less fade with repeated use, haven't done that or needed to test that yet.
 
I got the 10.00 caps at autozone are those the oversized ones or stock?? they looked huge but even if not cheap n i got the rears cyl for the same all better braking now. But should or has anyone ever painted them with cap paint ?? maybe be creative n put a turbo 6 on there haha
 
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