Used GN engines, what to look for?

[KenB 87 TT]

I have a line on what is suppose to be a complete 87 GN motor, less intake, dis-assembled. Needs freshening, FWIW.

Thinking about picking it up to reduce down time.
What should I be looking for?
Never bought a used engine in parts before, much less an LC2

Thanks

Ken B

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

First, varify the block casting number ends with 109 on the drivers side.

Second, varify the turbo drain tube hole 1/2NPT is drilled into the pass side upper section of the block....If the block does not have the drain tube, its just a NA engine with the same timing cover, heads, flywheel,block and rods as the turbo regals... The crank wont be the same as the turbo regal.
Same block, just needs the hole drilled for the oil return from the turbo

Third, varify the cylinder walls still have cross hatches and the pistons are standard bore. Digital micrometer or look at the pistons, see if they stamped with the oversized piston number ... .010 .020 .030 ect


Pull the pan, pull a rod cap off and varify the crank is a turbo crank with the rolled fillets on the rods and mains of the crank.
Na cranks dont have the rolled fillet on the rod journal, but still a good crank to use if you dont detonate it.

Make sure the head casting numbers end in 8445

Make sure the block isnt cracked in the cylinder walls, and make sure you take a flashlight to inspect the block, take a good look below where the main caps bolt to the block. This area is common to crack on a high horse power motor with weak main caps, the block will crack and it will have to be braised to strengthen it.

HTH
PS, just tore a friends motor apart tonight, cyl #6 was low on compression.
Turns out the piston was burnt and wore a .020 groove in the side of the cylinder wall... Car was running decent before we tore it apart.
Just goes to show you never know what your going to find, gotta make sure its torn apart completely to inspect every little bit of the block ect.

BW

 

[Lee Thompson]

main caps

Put all 4 main caps back on and make sure they fit SNUG in the registers. If you can lift the cap out by hand--walk away!!

 

[Grumpy]

sorry but to me a used engine is like buying a pig in a poke .. I have got burned a LOT with "oh ya it's got this and that" .. now I figure them as parts so if it is screwed up you won't loose your shirt

 

[Brer Rabbit]

Try this..

Ask the seller if he objects to having all the items checked at a machine shop. Each part will eventually have to checked before rebuild anyway. I would suggest that in the event that everything checks out, U would pay the machine shop bill plus the agreed price for the motor. If something is bad (crank has been cut too much, or block has been bored too much) then u walk away and u dont end up like Grumpy. If hes an honest guy, this wont be a problem.

 

[Grumpy]

ummmmm a few of the guy's I bought from were honest .. they just didn't know or ASSUMED