I was replacing some radiator hoses and noticed that on the boost controller I was missing a vacuum line. Not sure were it goes to and I have only had the car on the road a couple times since I bought it in Feb. I took a pic for visual. Also, on my scanmaster i'm idling at .46v for the TPS but the couple times i had it out on WOT it looks to be around 4.00v. My question is driving the best way to adjust the TPS or just hammer it while in park? When I hammer it and it boosts up it seems to cut back a bit on power and stays in first gear for longer than it probably should but the scanmaster doesn't read any knock retard. I posted my scanmaster stats on here before and they were all reading good except bl (118) was a little low. Any help is much appreciated.
Vacuum line and TPS
- Thread starter nwb300
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williamsGN
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Push it to the floor with ignition on, motor off and try to adjust it to get 4.5 to 4.9 and go for .36 to .44 off the pedal. There are two screws you loosen on the TPS to adjust it.
The wastegate solenoid, on the passenger valve cover has one hose running to it, the other port has a small sponge like filter when new. Maybe you're just seeing where the filter used to be, most are long gone nowadays.
1986 1987 Buick Regal Grand National Turbo T T-Type GNX GM Factory Original WASTEGATE SOLENOID FILTERS (3) KIT #7091
Set your fuel pressure for 42 psi with the vacuum line removed from the regulator, see if that helps your BLMs
The wastegate solenoid, on the passenger valve cover has one hose running to it, the other port has a small sponge like filter when new. Maybe you're just seeing where the filter used to be, most are long gone nowadays.
1986 1987 Buick Regal Grand National Turbo T T-Type GNX GM Factory Original WASTEGATE SOLENOID FILTERS (3) KIT #7091
Set your fuel pressure for 42 psi with the vacuum line removed from the regulator, see if that helps your BLMs
It has been a while since I have done much with my car (saving for another car for wife instead) but it is best if you set the TPS with the car in park. From what I remember, set idle to .42 to .46 volts. Shoot for 4.66 at wide open throttle. You can do this with a multimeter but scanmaster, OTC or other scan tool makes it easier.
One of the other guys will have to provide instruction on the vacuum line. I switched to a Conley 3" down pipe and Turbonetic Racegate too long ago to remember.
Do caution that it is important to keep these hoses in good shape. If one is bad, can cause boost spikes which leads to other things that cause surges, knock retard, eventful cruize control adjustments, etc.
One of the other guys will have to provide instruction on the vacuum line. I switched to a Conley 3" down pipe and Turbonetic Racegate too long ago to remember.
Do caution that it is important to keep these hoses in good shape. If one is bad, can cause boost spikes which leads to other things that cause surges, knock retard, eventful cruize control adjustments, etc.
I just checked it with ignition on and got .46 foot off and 3.9 to 4.1 with foot to floor (depending on how hard I press down). From what i have read that can cause the tranny to shift late at WOT along with many other issues. I'll get it and the FPR adjusted. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!
williamsGN
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I adjusted the TPS to .42 and 4.58 WOT. Went for a short drive and its still cutting back at WOT and staying in first gear longer than normal. I haven't had a MAL code before but now I have the 21 code. Maybe my TPS is going bad or a bad connection? I didn't get a chance to increase my fuel yet. One other thing. What should my IAC be cruising around lets say 40mph? it was around mid 30's but its around 10 at idle when the car is warmed up.
williamsGN
'Horse sneeze' addict
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Malfunction Codes Reference
I would say you adjusted it too high, but 4.58 should be fine. Just double check it again.
IAC sounds good Quick Reference Page For the '86/'87 Turbo Regals and '89 Turbo T/A
I would say you adjusted it too high, but 4.58 should be fine. Just double check it again.
IAC sounds good Quick Reference Page For the '86/'87 Turbo Regals and '89 Turbo T/A
Maybe i did adjust it to high. I'll have to recheck it again tomorrow. I forgot to mention that the only thing that involves fuel that I haven't changed yet might be the culprit to cutting out at WOT and that's the fuel filter. Have no idea how old it is but it doesn't look antique. I have one just haven't put it on yet. Thanks for your help and the great links you posted williamsGN. I'll check back in with updates hopefully tomorrow.
Update.....got the TPS set with no MAL codes but i have ran into another couple problems. I followed the instruction on adjusting the TV cable and when I went WOT it snapped back into the factory position. Went for a drive and it still wants to stay in first gear at WOT until i let off. It will shift fine if i'm not hammering it. Second..... My scanmaster numbers for the O2 is bouncing around from around 150 up to 600 at idle. Should I replace the o2 sensor and go from there? The car is now idling really rough. It has a kenne bell ram air kit on it and I took it apart to check out the filter and it is super dirty (the guy before me must have ignored it....) Are his filters just like K&N because I have their cleaning kit. Thanks!!!!
williamsGN
'Horse sneeze' addict
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To a vacuum T - http://www.gnttype.org/maint/quickref.html
then one side runs to the wastegate on the turbo, the other goes to the hose barb on the compressor side of the turbo.
then one side runs to the wastegate on the turbo, the other goes to the hose barb on the compressor side of the turbo.
