Vacuum/Wiring diagram?

g3arhed said:
oohhh yea, I built everything to really good tollerances, and compression is 9.5 so I can turbo it later...
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welcome to the turbo buick world. i love your motor i use to have that setup but converted over to the drawthru turbo.
 
the way mines set up im just gonna do a blowthro set up, mount the turbo pretty much where like 87gns are
 
Adam(WarWagon) is running a blow-threw setup with a Holly carb, he can tell ya everything you need to know. I wish I could afford a blow-threw carb, but I cant even afford a draw-threw right now:(
 
It's a little more complicated than that and I'm sure Adam will be happy to help you with it.:smile: I love mid engine chasis myself. Best of both worlds for handling and performance. I looked at a bunch of them when I was younger but couldn't afford one. Still can't but I still love them.:biggrin::cool: I used to do SCCA Solo GT1 and FF1600 so I know how well they can handle. It would be cool for you to show up at the Buick Nats or one of the other events.:cool:
 
LOL Not a problem Jase. I do the search fairly regular just to see what comes up. I got one for a friend for $50 shipped so you never know what you'll find. Good luck.
 
charcoal canister

Hey guys, I took the charcoal canister out the other night, is it safe to plug off the line to the tank to keep fumes from floating out?
 
The fuel tank needs to vent, besides just a vented gas cap. Perhaps just put a small pcv breather on it.
 
FlintBuick4Life said:
Hey guys, I took the charcoal canister out the other night, is it safe to plug off the line to the tank to keep fumes from floating out?
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That's something I would not remove. The vented gas from the tank and carb bowl is stored there. There's a chapter in 'Rochester Carbs' dedicated to it. Study it and make it functional again. It saves gas and helps the enviroment. The canister system is the one emissions system that is actually good for our cars. It probably does'nt work right now once you starts to butcher vac lines. I can probably post a simple drawing on how to make it work again later. :smile:
 
Freddie's Buick said:
That's something I would not remove. The vented gas from the tank and carb bowl is stored there. There's a chapter in 'Rochester Carbs' dedicated to it. Study it and make it functional again. It saves gas and helps the enviroment. The canister system is the one emissions system that is actually good for our cars. It probably does'nt work right now once you starts to butcher vac lines. I can probably post a simple drawing on how to make it work again later. :smile:
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Not to mention that if you over fill the tank it will burp gas out under the hood. Not a good thing and that's why it's there.:biggrin: Glad to see someone figuring out it's a good thing.:smile:
 
Freddie's Buick said:
It probably does'nt work right now once you starts to butcher vac lines. I can probably post a simple drawing on how to make it work again later. :smile:
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That`s why I took it out, the only thing connected to it was the tank. I didn't know how to hook it up to a carb, so I thought why have it then if its not doing anything. A drawing would be cool, so I can make it functional again.
 
Hope you can see this, (this forum limits everything):mad:.
 

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I had an Edel intake also. It does have the openings for one to put a ported switch into it, (I had mine set up that way). The switch works by thermal release. When water reaches 170 degrees the switch opens and allows vacuum to pass. The EGR portion of the drawing is just for port opening referance so ignor it.

As for the Edel carb, find the manual for it and locate which is the vacuum port. This allows for the vapor vacuum to enter the carb. Once this is done your carb will run a slight richer so you may have to adjust for the differance.

I made the drawing for a Q-jet, but all carbs have similier functions. I have an old Carter, (that is what the Edel actually is), and it does have the port opening for ported vacuum. It's the one that allows for distributor vac. Just 'Tee' into it.
 
The concept is to burn the fuel vapors, (rather than letting them vent out into the atmosphere). Think of it as an additional fuel supply. The canister uses charcoal, which stores the fuel vapors. Once the engine is at operating temperature, (160 degrees and up), the port switch opens and carburetor vacuum sucks all the stored vapors from the canister. These vapors are then burned as fuel. That’s how you save fuel; you burn off the vapors in addition to your fuel.

I’ve never used the black switch I mostly used the blue switch which opens up at 170 degrees. (They all have different opening temperatures). Also make sure that the thread fits the intake opening. I know they fit easily onto the 4.1 intake. I just don’t remember if they dropped right in the Edel intake openings. The ways you determine which port to use is simple just use a vacuum pump. Heat up some water to the opening temperature and drop the switch in and see where there’s vacuum.

Don’t forget to make sure that the vent line from the fuel tank going into the canister is attached and that all the other openings on the canister are capped except for the one going to the switch. Post a pic of your canister and I’ll show you which one the switch gets attached to. Also, the switch is a maintenance item. From time to time they go bad, (I’ve never had that happen to me but many a bone-yard switch I pulled just didn’t work). That’s why they’re so easily obtainable at any auto shop store.

You’ll need an O2 sensor socket to remove or attach the switch. Carbureted vehicles should always use this system. Even high performance vehicles should have it. It doesn’t weight anything so the only obstruction to going fast is that it takes up space. :smile:
 
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