Valve springs

[TTA 1077]

I think I need new valve springs, top end seems to be falling off, feels like the valves are floating, no pull at the top of 3&4. Who's changed theirs? and what springs are you using?

 

[Quiky One]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CCA-980-16&N=700+115&autoview=sku I've only heard good things about those on the stock cam. They are plenty strong for a stock cam at 90lbs.

Jason

 

[TTA 1077]

Are the summit (Comp Cams) springs on your car or some one you know using them? I'm a little paranoid on this issue because of the specific heads we have on our cars. Aren't we supposed to have 100#ers on our cars from the factory

 

[Quiky One]

No, I have 100 lb springs because I have an aftermarket cam. Maybe someone else can chime in.

Jason

 

[dvernst]

I have 100# springs from Kirbans. They have been working great with the stock cam.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Are the summit (Comp Cams) springs on your car or some one you know using them? I'm a little paranoid on this issue because of the specific heads we have on our cars. Aren't we supposed to have 100#ers on our cars from the factory

The issue isn't the heads, per se- it's the factory flat tappet cam, and the lack of pressure lubricants in today's oils. Too much spring pressure, too little lubrication= wiped cam.

 

[dvernst]

From what I understand The 100# springs are safe with our cams. Is this correct?

 

[SouthernCal GN]

I believe your springs are fine- it when people start with the "more is better" mentality that badthings happen.

 

[TTA 1077]

So what your saying is that the 100# springs are fine correct? I have 56,512 on the clock with a stock motor and use mobil 1. Or should I get the comp cams 90# springs? The car runs great and I don't want to mess the original cam up, I just want my top end back.

 

[Turbo RX-6]

Use the comp cam springs, I've had them on my car and they work fine. Do a search in the Buick forums and I think you'll see they have been used hundreds of times with great results.

 

[Scott89TTA]

Stock springs are supposed to be 90# but turned out to be junk comuter car springs and not so good for hi-perf applications. Talked to John Pearcy form Johns Performance about this quite a bit. He told me that the stock springs have been know to measure as low as 70# with only 10,000 miles on them and should be replaced even on low mileage cars...the stock springs are just plain junk. He and others recomend 100# springs (I purchaced a set of 100# springs from Johns Performance for $40)...if going to aftermarket cam then 110# springs may be required. My car only had 44K on the clock when I purchaced it and the springs were shot then...installing the new 100#ers shortly.


-Scott

 

[mytta49]

I am interested too in replacing the stock springs. Can anyone tell me if they can be done with the engine in ? Any ones a problem getting to ? What has to be removed to get to all the springs ?
Thanks

 

[Turbo RX-6]

The stock springs call for 90#, but were extremely weak and loose tension quickly. The Comp springs are also 90# and hold up very well, with all the past cam failures why take a chance?

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Replacing the springs in the car is not too complicated- it'll take a couple of tools (air fitting adapter for your spark plug hole, and a spring compressor) and a couple of hours of your time........



Go roller, and be done with it :biggrin:

 

[TTA 1077]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CCA-980-16&N=700+115&autoview=sku I've only heard good things about those on the stock cam. They are plenty strong for a stock cam at 90lbs.

Jason

I can't find our cars in the listing on summit, when I put in 89 firebird w/ 3.8l 231 all I get for parts is a few oil filters and some misc. junk! Same if I put 87 regal 3.8/231 in (no option for GN, TTA or even a turbo 3.8) are you sure these are the correct application for the TTA?

 

[Turbo RX-6]

That is the correct link and those are the springs you want.

 

[TTA 1077]

Thanks

 

[Scott89TTA]

100# valve springs & oil...

I was talking with John Pearcy the other day while ordering some new valve guides/seals to replace while I was doing my valve springs. He told me to run "RACING OIL" only from now on. Here is part of our e-mail conversation...

John,
Just ordered some valve cover grommets and new valve seals for my TTA. I'm planning on changing my springs in the next week or so…would like to do them this coming weekend and figured with 46K on the car I should probably change them while it is apart. Will the parts get to me by Friday if not what would it cost to bump up the shipping some.

Do I need to do anything special to install the valve seals? I have never done them before but have done valve springs…looks like you just pick them out and then slide the new ones in before the new springs go in or is there more to it then that ?
Thanks, Scott

***********************
Scott,
Seals are easy. The seals come with a sleeve, the sleeve goes over the valve steam so the seal can slide over the keeper groove. This prevents the seal from getting a tear in it from the shape edge of the keeper groove. The sleeve is long, so you want to get some of the length off at least 1/4" or so past the groove.

In case you didn't know, use only racing type oil from now on. It has all the phosphorus and zinc in it to keep the cam lobes from going flat. Newer oils removed it all to help the Cat's last the 100,000 warranty.John

**********************
John,
About the oil...all I run is 10w30 Mobil 1...I though that was what I should be using? If not what brand and weight do you recommend? I don't drive the car in the winter unless it is real nice...like in the high 50's or 60's and only put about 500 or so on the car over the Summer.
Thanks, Scott

***********************
Scott,
Nope, can't use Mobil 1 anymore, they removed all the phosphorus and zinc from it. It's only good for roller cams. I don't have any rec's on oil, just get a brand that's specifically say's it's formulated for racing.
Comp cam's told me Quaker State Gold was one brand. Stay with 10w30.
John

I guess this explains why some cams are getting wiped ?

So now the question is what Racing Oil should I be using...I noticed Royal Purple did not carry a 10w30 on a 10w40 ?

-Scott

 

[mytta49]

I have been using Valvoline VR1 racing oil 10/30 Has all the ingredients, zinc phosphorus needed that other oils do not have.

Here is a link
Valvoline VF1

Link to web site
Valvoline

Hope this helps

 

[Quiky One]

I've never had a problem with Mobil 1. Like i've previously posted, my dad uses Rotella truck oil in his old car and has no problems. Thats what his engine builder said to use and the engine builder is doing something right.

Jason