Valve trane info needed ASAP.

[turbov6joe]

What is the stock rocker arm ratio for the TTA heads?
What size is the rocker arm stud??
What diameter and length are the stock TTA pushrods???
What do y'all recommend for an aftermarket roller rocker (including ratio), pushrod, and guideplate for the TTA's????
Is is a royal PITA to change the valve springs with the motor in the car?????
Lastly, what kind of job is it to R&R the rear main seal while the engine is still in the car??????


TIA

 

[Razor]

How much is it worth to ya..

hehe

Fact ratio is 1.65..no roller rockers will work without machine work to the pedestals..threads on fact are 3/8 coarse..guideplates to use are the Isky adjustables for a small block chevy..rear main can be done with motor in can..just have to raise the motor and spin crank to get clearance on front throw.

If you use longer pushrods to achieve the additional height..then geometry will be off..

Valve springs are a breeze with a simple long handle spring compressor..use a 3/8 bolt and your done..you can either use compressed air or feed a rope into the cylinder and spin motor where the piston squishes rope..couple hours to do..

As far as the rockers the Ford 1.7 are the closest to ours based on pivot point of rocker.

hth

 

[turbov6joe]

Thanks for the info! I would have never guessed the stock ratio to be 1.65, I'm glad I asked. So much for my "increase the rocker ratio and leave the stock cam in" idea
I really hate the idea of installing a new cam and all the crap and heartache that goes along with it...cam break-in, flat #3 lobes etc...,for the minimal amount of power and RPM gain I would see with a 206-206 grind. I just sucks to be all the way down there replacing the timing chain and not do a cam while I'm at it! I like the idle and vacume of the stock cam, not to mention this is a mostly show/street car that WILL NOT be chopped up to become a full race car like my last ride. Hmmm, isn't that one of the main reasons I sold that car???
As for the rear main R&R. I was under the impression that the motor mounts on these cars are a whore to do, any validity to this? So what your saying is, remove the motor mount bolts, jack or hoist the motor up a few inches, and that should be enough to drop the oil pan past the crank and clear the frame cross member??? I'll also have the tranny out getting the converter rebuilt, so that should make things a bit easier. Any other detailed advice on the rear main job?

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

joey-

pull the motor out to change the convertor, then slap in the 206 cam and roller cam button, and new timing chain-

no sense stopping there, port out the stock headers, and fix some warped header leaks-

i thought we were gonna pull it this winter to detail it out?

you knoe it would be the best thing for it.....

later

 

[turbov6joe]

B,
Yea I know pulling the motor is prolly best, but finding time for you and I to get together for a whole day or weekend is going to be a challenge. Not to mention, you have enough projects of your own you need to finish before BG or this next spring. I was thinking along the lines of the things I could do myself when I had time.

BUT, if your really feeling motivated to help me yank that dude out, I'm off untill Jan 5th, let's try and at least yank the motor and converter this comming weekend if you have time??? I got the new torque arm and panhard bar to install as well, but going off of the destructions, it shouldn't be that big of a deal at all with the tranny being loose from the motor!

Tell ya what, if this comming weekend sounds goot to you, I'll have the house stocked with PLENTY of the goot stuff. This is what I'm thinking: You come out Friday after work, we thrash on it Friday untill whenever, you crash over night in the spare room, and we continue where we left off Saturday (later AM). I'll be free all day Saturday untill supper time, then I need to clean up and meet my father-in-law from Nebraska (Julie's pop) for supper. Then maybe Saturday night we can go out and kick it for a while??? I'll give you a call Monday to see what you thank.

 

[tta583]

To answer you previous question about the mounts. I understand that a total replacement is a b!$#@ because of the tight quarters. The upside for the RMS jpb is that there is a bolt that runs from front to back you can pull to easily separate the mount from the frame. Get under there and look. 2 nuts, pull the 2 bolts and she is free. I tend to be rather cautious so I would say take the bolts out of the tranny mount and I would probably pull the coil if it looks a little close.

Brent