Valvespring Change Info/How-To Video

jamiegallien

New Member
I go over some details about changing valvesprings and intake valve seals on my 87 Turbo-T. I also show how to make a home made compressor tool with junkyard parts. It's not perfect, but hopefully this will save somebody some time/headache when changing valvesprings. I would appreciate any likes/comments on the youtube site too!


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1987 Turbo-T Project #BufordT Stock under the hood for now.... ;-)
 
What were the installed pressures? Verification of installed heights and pressures is the most important step.
 
What were the installed pressures? Verification of installed heights and pressures is the most important step.

Maybe for you that is most important, and for a precision rebuild I'm sure it is, but I'm not doing a high end rebuild here. I bought name brand valvesprings to replace 150,000mi originals on an unworked head. They'll be close enough, and definitely better than the old ones.

Thanks for the comment though, it's definitely something to be considered based on the results you're looking for.
 
Thanks for making the video. I'm sure this will help a lot of people stressing over this pretty simple job. I wish I would have had something like this before I did mine. There are a couple things I want to mention.

1) I was told by Alex @ CompCams that you cannot use the stock retainers. I bought a new set. While comparing them the new ones were definitely different in design and function.

2) I regulated my air pressure down to about 50psi. Enough to hold the valves but low enough as not to do any damage. Idk if this was necessary but I was told to do it.

I don't mean to be critical. I just want to add my personal experience.


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Thanks for making the video. I'm sure this will help a lot of people stressing over this pretty simple job. I wish I would have had something like this before I did mine. There are a couple things I want to mention.

1) I was told by Alex @ CompCams that you cannot use the stock retainers. I bought a new set. While comparing them the new ones were definitely different in design and function.

2) I regulated my air pressure down to about 50psi. Enough to hold the valves but low enough as not to do any damage. Idk if this was necessary but I was told to do it.

I don't mean to be critical. I just want to add my personal experience.


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No problem with critique. I wasn't trying to be all-inclusive, just help out a bit. Def take whatever advice you can get from whoever will give it!

1) Interesting on the retainers. I used the stock ones and they seemed to work fine. I've not heard about needing to replace them before. Are you referring to retainers or locks? Either way, I reused the originals. I guess we'll find out. <edit> just looked up on Comp Cams website. They list the same part# for SBC and Buick V6...so I should be good.

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Chevrolet V6 & Small Block, Buick V6 1.230" .870" .650" - 7° 1.250" 11/32"

2) I left my pressure turned up, just to make sure there was plenty of pressure holding the valves closed. There is WAY more than 120psi of pressure in that cylinder when combustion happens, so I never even considered turning down. The only consideration would be if you don't lock the rotation of the engine down with a ratchet on the balancer pully, higher PSI would cause the engine to rotate more quickly when the air pressurizes the cylinder.
 
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