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want to drop it, need some advice, see pic

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Welby

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Joined
Aug 6, 2004
Messages
1,519
I know it's been brought up a hundred times, but hey, whatever, lol. Here's the situation; As of right now my car is sitting as shown in the top pic. I photochopped the end goal below it. My question is, how do I acheive this without spending a boatload of money? Just eyeballing it, it seems like a good 2.5-3" of lowering is needed.
I'm not fond of the jacked up look, unless it's my Jeep we're talking about :D

 
Here's mine. Lowered in front with Bell Tech spindles and I used 79 Ford Mustang springs in the rear that I cut a coil off of. Believe you can also use F-body springs on the rear as well.

More pics can be seen here. http://www.buickgn.com/torquewheels.htm Most of these are with 255/60x15's on the rear. Have since gone up to 275/60's.
 

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Thanks for the info, that looks great! Just what I'm after, this pic really shows it :D

One quick question; would any fox body Mustang rear coil work, or is there something specific about the '79's springs?
 

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I just bought a nice used set of Belltech springs for the rear for $50. They are pretty much new. I am wondering the same though, I think 2" Spindle drop throws the geometry of the whole car off and actually hurts performance. What is the best route? From lowering springs? I would even be intersted in A-Arms, whatever it takes to make the car handle, ride nicely, and sit low. Good subject to bring up!! I hope people chime in!! ----Jeremy
 
jdpolzin said:
I just bought a nice used set of Belltech springs for the rear for $50. They are pretty much new. I am wondering the same though, I think 2" Spindle drop throws the geometry of the whole car off and actually hurts performance. What is the best route? From lowering springs? I would even be intersted in A-Arms, whatever it takes to make the car handle, ride nicely, and sit low. Good subject to bring up!! I hope people chime in!! ----Jeremy

I thought that was the whole advantage of spindles, keeping stock geometry :confused: :confused:
 
My front tires (stock size) hit the inner fender on bumps with spindles. Been adding chunks of rubber and other spacers...no luck. Getting piss3d. Have new KYB shocks, but they feel so soft. I think I need better shocks with more progressive dampning?? I have an upgraded swaybar, fiberglass bumper and lighter aluminum heads. Still have A/C, but I have moved the battery to the trunk. Even with the lost weight, my chit still hits. :confused:

I may be removing the spindles soon. What a waste for me. Looks good sitting in my driveway.
 
Yeah, I dropped my monte with spindles and didnt like them at all. The tires crunched the fenders and rode horribly. I would be interested in what other people have to add in!
 
Spindles are probably the cheapest route. What are you looking for....a good handling street car? Or straight line performance? I have the Savitske Classic and Custom Street Comp Stage 2 with Eibachs and Koni adjustables...and I liiiiike it! I wanted a corner carver and it's almost where I want it now...
 
I want the low look with handling and occasional drag strip use. Still makes no sense. Everything i have ever read says spindles are the 'proper way' to lower the front.

Have you all checked your alignment?
 
Running stock size tires on mine in the front and they don't hit at all. When I bought the GN it had 235/60's and those DID hit. Don't know why you are having problems. :confused:
 
Hit's everywhere, on the sides when turning, up top on the big bumps.
I have 7" rims with 3.5 BS.

Stock springs.
KYB shocks
OEM size tires.
 
To say spindles RIDE poorly is illogical, A spindle DOES NOT affect your ride, It still has the same EXACT parts that control ride...ie; springs, shocks, bushings, tire, etc...spindles are solely mounting devices, the BT ones are raised up 2" for a 2" drop. They will mathamatically NOT change ANY angles, nor wheel positioning, what does change is the "arc of travel", it is tech 2" higher, so rubbing may occur, due to a later point of arcing...but if they were as bad as some guys state, no one would buy them, and they'd honestly be discontinued. (btw I have a set personally)
I recommmend a spring swap over spindle swap simply to get a more agressive rate for improved handling, and tighter ride. If you only do a spindle swap, and stay OEM 1987 springs, your 20 yr old springs that are not OEM rate any longer WILL travel too low, and cause rubbing, premature shock wear, tire wear issues, and a;ll things poor. (Atleast replace OEM w/ MOOG OEM rate/height units)
Also, Most reputable shops know that spindles do this change in wheel placment, and when you get aftermarket wheels, will account for this by changing the BS, most by 3/4" some +/- depending on thier experiences. I actually spoke w/ MHT regarding offset for Foose wheels, and spindle issues, and the were aware of this ongoing issue.
GC
 
Ok, good info! Good way to put it! What is your set-up? Wheels Size, BS, Spinlde, spring, and shock? Thanks for the insight!
 
I hate dropped spindles. To much bump steer built into them. The only way you are going to get your car that low in the front(tire tops up in the fender) is to cut some springs. I tried the stock springs and thought they didn't ride stiff enough. I had tire rub on deep bumps and other rubbing issues. I ended up using some 3rd gen F-body 1LE springs with 2 coils cut. If I guesstimated correctly that would put them in the 700-750 lbs/in range for rate. Quite stiff for the street but perfect on a high speed track. Virtually no brake dive at all. The rear does lift a little. I need to fine tune to shocks to correct that. This is a picture of a 225/50 tire mounted on the front. A taller tire fits up in the well quite nicely.
 

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turbofish38 said:
The only way you are going to get your car that low in the front(tire tops up in the fender) is to cut some springs.
Savitske Classic and Custom Street Comp Stage 2 with Eibachs and Koni adjustables did the job for me....no cutting of anything. On really hard bumps my d/s tire will scrub the inner fender well ever so slightly. Pretty soon it will be worn away to the point it won't scrub anymore. :D

Edit: I had to resize the living crap out of those pictures. Kinda hard to see, but that front tire IS up in there. Car sits nice and low. Tires are 245/45-17 front and 275/40-17 rear.
 

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Alot of the "issues" associated w/ drop spindles can be fixxed by a thurough alignment, where you tune caster to over come some of these issues, and of course re-set camber and toe to a livable level. You can manipulate these three settings and change a whole car if you have the know how, or a wallet that can pay someone that does.(Generally a race shop that specializes in chassis set-up and tuning)
I am building an 86 using BT 2" spindles and Susp Tech 1" springs, Bilstiens, and new bushings thru-out...19x8.5 F, and 20x10 rears coming soon, 16x8 F&R now.... I am on a 2-3 year plan for the build, car isnt runnin now, so no pics to be had yet....sorry!
GC
 
That won't help me. It's more like a square peg in a round hole. I had my car aligned to the proper settings. My tires hit inside, outside, top, and sides when turning. :rolleyes:
 
Dropped mine with eibach springs.
 

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turbo2nr said:
That won't help me. It's more like a square peg in a round hole. I had my car aligned to the proper settings. My tires hit inside, outside, top, and sides when turning. :rolleyes:

Sorry, but there has to be another issue with your set-up. Sounds like a BS problem with the wheels. Try a different set and see what happens.

Also, coming from the atuo repair field, one person's definition of "proper settings" may be WAY off from what it really should be.
 
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