Want to lower and stiffen ride

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hello people; Bracing is a common subject when talking handling with our cars. But you don't say what wheel tire combo you have? When I did upgrade to a 16" wheel with a nice tire it changed the whole feel of the car and you might want to go there if you havn't already.
IBBY
 
I understand that I have been setting up track cars for almost 20 years tires are the most important part of grip and 50% of how good your braking is especially on the track just looking to see what kind of suspension setups are out there for the g body since I have not owned one before anyone here do any autocross with there car os driving schools? ??
 
While we're talking tires...what are your thoughts on the NT05r's?
i have never used them on my cars on the 2 race cars ive built and crew for we use the bf r1 and the hoosier cantalever slicks but a few other guys i know have used them for track days with good results. on my M3 powered 318ti i use the Falken Azenus which for the money are very good but weigh plays a roll on how much grip you end up with my car weighs 2400lb and i can do 15 tracks days on a set the car with the R1's has to be at 2980lb for race rules he will use a set of tires every 2 race weekends so it varies on use and weight on how a tire works and on the driver my car is very light and has alot of power as far as BMW's go and im a jerky driver if i was smoother i could get more out of them
 
Anything and everything. Street driving, possibly autocross, hopefully the strip, and maybe a track.
 
hello; There is not too many people here who roadrace there cars but there is a couple. Most are straight line racers and me I'm a street guy. There are a few fluff and buff types here also. But if you like to try have fun and post your finding.
go for it you might like it
IBBY
 
Well the guys I know who used them had them on stock m3's about 3140lb with 245/40/17's our t types are what 3650?? I don't see a reason they wouldn't work pretty good for all around tire but also look at the Falkens if your going to use them for everything I used the Falken Ziex 512 all seasons for 2 years when I first started doing drivers schools when I used a 525 which was 3410lb and I loved them for and all use tire only down fall was I would only get about 7000 miles out of them
 
I'm not trying to roadrace it but we all update our drivetrains to meet the times I just want the chassis up to date too it's great to have a stupid fast car but its better when it stops and turns just as fast and safer
 
Hi Pete and welcome to the board!

Please feel free to give us a call any time to discuss more in depth about these cars and what works. Right now I am sick as a dog with this flu crap but give me a few more days as I hope to feel better..

I for one can appreciate a good stopping car! Mine has gone from 0 to 75mph back to 0 in 9.7 seconds at the BAER brake speed stop challenge 2 yrs ago.
 
Update after doing somethings to the car this weekend my car has the front tie bars on it already they go from the left to right frame rail just infront of the radiator and two bars from each rail to the engine crossmember. I don't know which company there from but the one in front of the radiator is square and the other two are round tubing
 
the one in front of the radiator may be postons. i got one from them years ago and its square.
 
Scot w. runs coilovers. He has DSE now, but is switching to ridetech. I also ordered ridetech front coilovers along with their new tru-turn system. Moog seems to be the most common spring replacement. Many run 5658's with 5413's for about a one inch drop. However it has been suggested to me to run 5658 and 6377 for a lighter spring, or 5660 with the 5413 for a heavier spring rate.
2 questions
1) how did your RideTech setup work out? How many miles do you have on the car since installation and have you pushed it?
2) did you end up installing the SC&C jounce bar and did what do you have to say about it>
 
Unfortunately there was a design flaw with the ridetech stuff that severely limited turning radius. They have since ironed out the issues, but I have yet to put the new stuff in. That being said the (flawed) stuff was pretty insane. It turned the car into a different animal. No words can describe how it grabs the road. The jounce bar went in with other things so it's hard to say how much it helped. I can say that it is beefy as hell, and would recommend it. It's a good way to tie the nose of the frame together.
 
You can stiffen the chassis up quite a bit with bolt on parts but if you really want to do it right then you need to pull the frame and do some welding. The seam welds are horrible to put it nicely and the frame is a wet noodle. I had a bad frame on mine and got another to put in it. If you pick one of the rear horns up that side will move about a foot before the other side starts to move.:mad: Box the center and then brace the rear cross member up and then you end up with a decent frame.;)
Hey Charlie, what would that run if I sent a driving car to you? I figure there is no reason for me to re-invent the wheel. Thanks
 
Hey Charlie, what would that run if I sent a driving car to you? I figure there is no reason for me to re-invent the wheel. Thanks
Depends entirely what you want done Troy. Mine has been boxed and braced quite a bit and probably have 200 hours in it, including cleaning and painting it. Still need to make a new tranny cross member and position the engine where I want it. To pull a frame will take several hours and then the fun starts. If I have a bare frame here I can do all the mods I did on mine for between $1000 and $1500 as a rough estimate but it should be less than that.
 
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