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Want to put a A/N fitting on the stock fuel rail

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Joined
Mar 25, 2016
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HI! I'm looking to run 6A/N line up to the stock fuel rail. I have seen it before and was wondering if any one knows what the fitting would be that I need or would maybe have a part number for it? Thanks!!
 
I have the fitting you need i believe. I'll sell cheap never used only mounted
 
if you want to run a braided hose on the feed side,that's pretty easy,... If you want to do the return side, that's a waaaay different story. For some reason GM needed to reinvent the wheels on the sizes and make adaption the stock stuff a real bitch and a half.
 
Having adapted my stock rails, it's just simpler to get aftermarket rails and regulator. Cruzperformance has new ones.

To make your own, get a 5/8 dowty seal (should be cheap at local parts store), death wheel a AN -8 to metric 16x1.5 straight, to feed -8. Then the return, have a custom adapter made that is -6. Or, somehow, get a 14x15 oring 90 deg elbow to -6. I couldn't get mine to fit, was a PITA, had to remove the rail to have room to thread that and the hose on in one step, had to remove rail to remove the line, no way, I didn't use that. Plus, the aftermarket buick regulators need to be drilled out, since the hole is only .187 inches in dia, IIRC. So, a real -6 regulator is way bigger and less restrictive in an idle situation.
 
I went and drilled out my stock rail, and TIG welded on a -8 feed, then tigged on a -6 return to the regulator. But I have the tools and all to do it.
 
I went and drilled out my stock rail, and TIG welded on a -8 feed, then tigged on a -6 return to the regulator. But I have the tools and all to do it.
I have direct fitting to screw in the rail and the reg. -8 feed -6 return
 
Racetronix sells both -8 feed and -6 return fittings that screw right in with a sealing washer as mentioned above. I used a -8 180 degree fitting on my feed and a -6 150 degree on my return, it can be removed and installed with the rail in place and fits real nice
 
The fuel rail feed and FPR return are standard metric o-ring Saginaw fittings. For the feed:

-6 X 16mm X 1.5 Male O-Ring, F.I.

And the FPR return:

-6 X 14mm X 1.5 Male O-Ring, F.I.

I just recently used the Earl's brand fitting on Kirban's FPR install:

Earl's 991954 - Earl's AN to Metric Adapters

With a Pure Choice Motorsports 90* hose end on PTFE lined hose. Can R&R the hose end from the fitting without lifting the rail.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Do you know if your PTFE hose is conductive or convoluted?

The bore is smooth, not sure if it is conductive or not. Obviously the outside is (SS braided), but... I'll go measure a piece.

OK, measured several different hoses for conductivity of the inner liner. Used a Fluke 83 which auto ranges, and for an idea of upper range, a probe tip in each hand comes in at 8 - 10 mega-ohms.

Pure Choice PTFE SS -6 Braided hose, about a foot is infinite ohms.

Eaton Aeroquip PTFE SS -6 braided hose, ditto, infinite resistance.

Jegs Viton lined SAE J30R9 -6 hose, outer braid in nylon, embedded SS braid (partial), ditto, infinite resistance.

Russell CPE (Chlorinated Polyethylene) synthetic rubber inner liner SS -6 braided hose, ditto, infinite resistance. Note that this is the stuff that forced me to move to the PTFE and Viton lined hoses.

And for the finale, Gates SAE J30R7 3/8" fuel hose (standard auto supply store stuff), ditto, infinite resistance.

Earl, I don't know of the importance to be conductive, but HTH's,

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Conductive is VERY important with fuel lines.

You know all the stories about the garage smelling like fuel due to braided lines?... those would be non conductive.

If the inner linings are black in color they're impregnated with carbon and are conductive. The reason you want that is because the fuel cruising through the lines are generating static electricity. Since the outer braid is a ground when the charge gets high enough it will blast tiny tiny arcs through the hose into the braid. That's where the smell comes from.
By adding carbon it allows the inner wall of the line to ground to the end fittings. That keeps the charge from ever building in the first place.

The convoluted part is just so you can accidentally flex the hose into a tighter bend radius and not kink the inner hose (and have it hidden from view)
 
Thanks for all the reply's, I think I should maybe go with a 8an. I'm using a Aeromotive phantom stealth 340 lph in my stock tank and running 1/2 stainless line up to the front, then the braided line. For the return I have 3/8 aluminum and 6an braided line. I'm thinking I will just purchase the fittings from Fat Nat as long as they are black or nickel, not red or blue.
 
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