...weld in roll cage...

DONE!:cool:
 

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northerngn, that looks great! Is that a custom or a kit? I assume custom, seeing the sharpie marks. Nice work!
 
new bushings will probably be useless once it's all welded together. it will be all one piece,and very rigid. am i wrong?

I think he means you should have new bushing prior to the cage being welded solid to frame because with old or missing bushings your body will be off centered or sagging, etc.
 
the bar doesn't secure to the body , just the frame . the body still moves on the bushings and if your bushings are shot and the body is sitting on the frame (common for #2 mounts ) or frame points need repair (common #6 mount ) its much easier to do before the bar goes in.
with new bushings you know the body will stay put and be vibration free for a while and that the body is sitting properly on the frame for when the bar is fitted to the interior
 
With interior;)
 

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why did you do a seat brace , its not required per NHRA unless you run an aftermarket seat
 
the bar doesn't secure to the body , just the frame . the body still moves on the bushings and if your bushings are shot and the body is sitting on the frame (common for #2 mounts ) or frame points need repair (common #6 mount ) its much easier to do before the bar goes in.
with new bushings you know the body will stay put and be vibration free for a while and that the body is sitting properly on the frame for when the bar is fitted to the interior

Well, heck, I just learned something new... I was under the understanding it secured to the frame, through the body, then you weld the patches in around the bar to fill the holes you made, but you also weld those plates TO the bar.

Thanks for the edumacation. ;) :biggrin:
 
the bar doesn't secure to the body , just the frame . the body still moves on the bushings and if your bushings are shot and the body is sitting on the frame (common for #2 mounts ) or frame points need repair (common #6 mount ) its much easier to do before the bar goes in.
with new bushings you know the body will stay put and be vibration free for a while and that the body is sitting properly on the frame for when the bar is fitted to the interior

isn't the bar welded to the body at the floor? wouldn't that make it all one piece welded together
 
... I was under the understanding it secured to the frame, through the body, then you weld the patches in around the bar to fill the holes you made, but you also weld those plates TO the bar. ;) :biggrin:

If you weld the patches to the bar, you WILL regret it. :mad:

There is always movement between the body and frame, so it will break these welds loose, and you will NOT be happy with the rubbing noise.

What most fabricators do is leave clearance around the body penetrations and seal the joint with a flexible silicone-type sealer.

Also, the installation of a roll bar does little to stiffen the frame. To add some strength, and help eliminate frame flex, at least add bars to the hoop in the form of an X, or run diagonal bars from the hoop to the rear bar attachments on the opposite sides of the frame.

As usual, it is best to deal with someone that has experience of having installed a few bars or cages in Regals. Even though most G-body cars are similar, the GN door panels are different. This will have an effect on appearance and functionality, as well as more difficulty to enter and exit.
 
So if I have a 6 Point Roll Cage Welded to the Floor and not to the Frame. What is the limit ET for this?
 
11:50. If the car has a frame the bar/cage must be welded to it to be legal for faster than 11:50.
 
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