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Weld Wheel's keep falling off...

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DynamicGN

Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2002
Messages
243
Well almost...My father owns a tire/mechanic shop, I mounted these wheels and tires myself, they are brand new prostars. I am sure I tightened them and a few blocks down the road, i felt a wobbling sensation in the front, I had lost 2 bolts and both front wheels were barely hanging on, all the bolts were loose. So I tightened them right there on the side of the road with a cross wrench, went back to the shop, checked everything out and tightned them again with the air gun...1 day later...few miles down, same thing on one side...this in only happening in the front. I have mounted many many tires and wheels on customer cars and what not for 10 years but I have never seen anything like this. At first I thought i did something wrong, but this is just weird. I have 15x7's in the front with 3.5 BS and 215/65/15's. 15x 8 3.5 BS in the back with 275/60/15's. The bolts are straight from weld, 12x 1.50..I do not have the 3 inch long studs. Any insight???? Has this ever happened to anyone or am I loosing my mind. Any info on the exact pounds of torque to tighten these things...
 
I am sure that you have to switch over to the longer wheel studs, that might be the problem.
 
I have Pro-Stars amd I never put long studs in the front and I have no problems...One of the biggest problems people have with welds is they don't realize that since they are lightweight aluminum and they flex you HAVE to use a torque wrench and torque all the bolts the same, you don't have to go crazy on em, I'd check weld for the exact spec.
 
Yea, I noticed when putting them on, they did flex and I had to tighten each bolt slowly, then get at another one, then go back to the same one and so forth...I will check with weld. thanks.
 
I torque them to 100 ft. lbs. and I have the 3" studs. They do come loose over time, but only every 1,000 miles or so. Not real loose, but I know they need tightened when the 'clicking' gets louder.

Jim
 
I HATE THE CLICKING...Seriously everytime I drive around with my window open I almost sell em.
 
Grumpy said:
may want to look for cracks :eek:

Mine haven't cracked yet. They're a few years old but I don't drive the car much. If I keep 'em torqued at 100 ft./lbs. they don't click (much) either. When the clicking start getting annoying I know it's time to torque them down.

Jim
 
Slow91z said:
I HATE THE CLICKING...Seriously everytime I drive around with my window open I almost sell em.

I hear you, I hate that clicking sound :mad: Drives me NUTS!
I'm looking to replace them but haven't found anything I really like unless I spend big $'s :cool:
But atleast they never came loose and almost fell off
 
FWIW, the last wheels I had that made the dreaded clicking sound turned out to be the center caps!
 
if i am not mistaken those take the mag style lug nut(goes thru the wheel)right? make sure that the lug nut doesnt bottom out on the rotor/hub before tightening the wheel. if the shank on the lugnut bottoms out,the lugnut will be tight but the wheel will not be. just something to check. i had a set of wheels where i had grind a little bit off of the lug nut for them tighten properly. easy way to check is to take the wheel off and put the lugnut through the hole. if it sticks out past the backside of the mounting surface then that is probably your problem. good luck, jeremy

also.... i always use antiseize on my wheel studs. how can you get a proper torque spec when trying to torque dry threads?? i know that will stir the $hit pot! :D
 
I had this happen to mine, too. I bought two replacements with less backspacing for the front because they were rubbing the suspension. I had them mounted and the next day drove about 25 miles. I got to my destination and happened to look at one of the wheels. One of the lug nuts was almost all the way off. I got my lug wrench from the trunk and tightened them all. I haven't had any problems with them since then.
 
They require a retorque no matter what. Make sure the studs are long enough and the lugs dont bottom out. If your using them in the rear with wider rims you will need longer studs to get the correct engagemnet.
 
arent the lugs a shouldered bolt that goes through the wheel? Not a tapered design correct.
 
Correct, the lug does go through the wheel, it is a shouldered design...I tightened them again to 80lbs of torque as weld said and they came loose twice on the way home...I am ordering the 3 inch studs and open ended lug nuts, i will do a search as to which ones to get...these wheels fit fine, no rub on the suspension...the problem is only in the front.
 
could the lugs be bottoming out? does the wheel seem tight when its at 80lbs? I always did alum wheels to 100 but would do as the man. recomends.
 
That's why I'll NEVER own Welds. Have heard this lug nuts coming loose story a million times. NEVER happened to my Convos...

strike
 
Three sets of '96's in the family :) and nary a problem with any. When I torque them, I go up in 3 steps (30, 60, 90) then around the pattern 5 times (skipping every other lug until all 5 are done). The centers do flex until all the lugs are at spec with no more movement...
 
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