Well crap, I think I just burned up the rear hatch motor??

[2QUIK6]

Was just finishing the rear spoiler install and I needed to close the hatch, I pushed it down then realized my socket wrench was still under there...well it pulled it down with the socket driver still under at one side....popped the key in a turned it and the hatch poped up, but the mechanism didn't raise.....

Now its stuck down and I can't get it to raise nor can I close the hatch...what the heck do I do to get it closed now??

And what is the part number if I need a new one now...this really pisses me off!!!

 

[2QUIK6]

Ahhh.....I found a post about that little switch down on the latch...pushed it in with my finger and whala....it came up and it works! It's the switch that controls the light coming on/off.

 

[Who Needs 8]

Ahhh.....I found a post about that little switch down on the latch...pushed it in with my finger and whala....it came up and it works! It's the switch that controls the light coming on/off.

Yeah, mine has done the same thing.

How much did the paint shop charge?

 

[2QUIK6]

Yeah, mine has done the same thing.

How much did the paint shop charge?

$120 I just took them the old spoiler and the new one and told them to match the paint, and also gave them the original GM paint code.
Looks perfect....but it sure was a biotch installing that brake light with no help to keep the thing from sliding around and scratching the paint on the car and the spoiler....had to duct tape down towles all over the place.

Also, the spoiler was a little cocked to one side and the bevel in the bottom where the glass meets the metal did not quit line up so I had to use a dremel and slot the pass side corner hole a little to make it fit where the bevel is in the spoiler, this also made it fit more evenly across the back....before the driver side had about 1/4" less space from the rear of the spoiler to the edge of the hatch lid then the pass side did.

 

[JSTTA]

Fuse

By the way, the fuse for the trunk is on a seperate fuse next to the fuse box. this was the problem i had a few weeks ago.

 

[Who Needs 8]

$120 I just took them the old spoiler and the new one and told them to match the paint, and also gave them the original GM paint code.
Looks perfect....but it sure was a biotch installing that brake light with no help to keep the thing from sliding around and scratching the paint on the car and the spoiler....had to duct tape down towles all over the place.

Also, the spoiler was a little cocked to one side and the bevel in the bottom where the glass meets the metal did not quit line up so I had to use a dremel and slot the pass side corner hole a little to make it fit where the bevel is in the spoiler, this also made it fit more evenly across the back....before the driver side had about 1/4" less space from the rear of the spoiler to the edge of the hatch lid then the pass side did.

So it went on pretty easy.

My spoiler is still here at the office. Haha.

 

[2QUIK6]

So it went on pretty easy.

My spoiler is still here at the office. Haha.

It would definitely help to have an extra set of hands to get it on, at least someone to hold the narrow ends (front tips) while you are bolting the 3rd brake light back up..other than that it was easy.
Now, the write up post on the install uses screws in place of the "tabs" that were on there originally..you can do that or use the simple "1 screw on each tip end" and the supplied brackets and its would be easier...may want paint the bracket black so its not so obvious against the black window trim. But I elected to do the screw method..if you pay close attention to the location of the brackets on the window, just make the screws engage in the grove, they don't have to slide all the way to the back of the clip, they only keep the spoiler side wings from lifting up, and measure carefully how far from the edge the screw needs to be so the spoiler edge lines up with the window edge.

 

[j13smiley]

good info - thanks!