What does it take to get a GN or T in the 10's

[GNVYUS 1]

I'm a little surprised at some of the don't buy modded GN comments.

So you guys mean to tell me if you HAD to sell your car's for some reason that they'd be dud's and not worth getting because you owned them first??

I'll make sure not get get any used parts from you dudes then. :tongue:

 

[boostingbuick]

I run Tens with mine on a 255-50-16 drag radial and pump gas. No alky. Funny no one seems ask how to do it pump gas alone. I guess it cost too much.

 

[bsdlinux]

I wouldn't buy a modified car unless I knew about the car personally .. There are a lot of cars out there with a pile of parts in them that don't go why would ya jump in someone elses headache (the woulda, shoulda, coulda cars) ??? With the new parts out there today 10s are pretty easy. I'd look for a nice low mile car with nice paint an so forth and DRIVE it.. It's a damm car :biggrin:

I agree with Grumpy.

I've owned 4 of these TurboBuick powered cars 2 GNs, a TR and a TTA. Only my white car was all stock when I bought it. It wasn't a low mile car but all stock except exhaust, DP and cold air. I have now with the E-85 setup a fairly fast car that can whoop up on some of the high dollar parts cars around here

Plenty of close to stock cars hitting high 11s.

I've had the big head, big turbo cars done by someone else Start with a higher-mile stockish car. You'd be amazed what you can do with it, when everything is cleaned and tuned correctly. :biggrin:

 

[forcefed3.8's]

10's is all in the combo of parts. I pretty much had a 10 sec car my first time out, but on a stock bottom end, I am on borrowed time. Buying a modded car is a headache. Most mods get either redone or thrown out or replaced. Buying a stock car might cost more because you are starting with nothing, but atleast you can do it all right, instead of chasing problems. Every modded car I have bought, I ended up repairing for months before making it track worthy.

 

[Grumpy]

I'll make sure not get get any used parts from you dudes then. :tongue:

I sell off a LOT performance parts that are a complete mis match of a combo to "me" .. nothing wrong with the parts .. I like the KISS combo.. keep it simple stupid .. worked great in Melissa's GN when she ran high 9s in street trim .. Again ..look at "combos" lots of people have and look what they run .. you cannot just throw parts AND $$$$ into the car and expect it to run the # you "THINK" it will run Those cars end up as the "woulda, coulda' shoulda's"

 

["Turbo-T"]

Here is the reality, go to one of those GN's you are looking at, jack up the front-end and put jack stands underneath it. Lower it down onto the jack stands ans step back and take a picture of this. Now, everytime you think about buying one, pull that photo out and look at it because if you buy one thats where the car will spend 95% of it life, up on stands, being repaired. These engines are a piss-poor design for running boost. Cast cranks/4 bolts around each cyl. and weak blocks, 2 bolt mains etc.. There are waay better choices out there to throw your money at.

That's funny you say that, after hearing about someone running 8's in the 1/4 on a 109 block. They must have been really pushing it's limits.

I agree with sleeper 6, now might be the time to rid your GN before it breaks. Afterall they're all junk now aren't they? :wink:

 

[1of1547]

I sell off a LOT performance parts that are a complete mis match of a combo to "me" .. nothing wrong with the parts .. I like the KISS combo.. keep it simple stupid .. worked great in Melissa's GN when she ran high 9s in street trim .. Again ..look at "combos" lots of people have and look what they run .. you cannot just throw parts AND $$$$ into the car and expect it to run the # you "THINK" it will run Those cars end up as the "woulda, coulda' shoulda's"

Grumpy is 100% right. The right parts make the difference. I would recommend finding a tuner that you like and stick with them. Don't do half of what one says and half of what another says. They all have their own ways of going fast. And a lot of times they are different. Anderson, Merritt, Hartline, Armstrong, Cotton, etc. take your pick. They all have proven track records. I would try to find one that is local to you that way they can do hands on tuning and not over the phone. Over the phone isn't always the easiest.

 

[Grumpy]

X2 !! :biggrin:

 

[V6POWER]

My simple combo is high ten capable. See sig.

 

[Grumpy]

My simple combo is high ten capable. See sig.

maybe it is BUT the last 1/8th mile can be a KILLER usually thats where all the "action" is

 

[V6POWER]

Here is what I ran in November:
1.701
4.619
7.080
99.75
11.01
124.32

I have since gotten the 1/8 mile into the 6s and the 60' down to 1.5s so I feel safe in saying that my car is capable of high 10s.

 

[TurboBuickSix]

Here is the reality, go to one of those GN's you are looking at, jack up the front-end and put jack stands underneath it. Lower it down onto the jack stands ans step back and take a picture of this. Now, everytime you think about buying one, pull that photo out and look at it because if you buy one thats where the car will spend 95% of it life, up on stands, being repaired. These engines are a piss-poor design for running boost. Cast cranks/4 bolts around each cyl. and weak blocks, 2 bolt mains etc.. There are waay better choices out there to throw your money at.
Just something to chew on,
Mike
86 GN

Sound like someone either don't know how to drive and or properly maintain their TR, or maybe he just got a lemon?? but, I beat the piss out of mine and rarely have to repair it. They are getting old and if it is stockish you will need to go from bumper to bumper and update anything questionable.Most importantly you just have to know your cars limits and respect them,monitor your data/knock or it WILL be spending alot of time on jack stands. I think hemi8's car is more the exception than the rule but there are folks just just have horrible luck with a TR. Hemi8 do you talk mean to your car? Maybe you should be a little nicer to her and she will do the same in return.:smile:

 

[wickedtt]

I run Tens with mine on a 255-50-16 drag radial and pump gas. No alky. Funny no one seems ask how to do it pump gas alone. I guess it cost too much.

I will ask how is this possible on pump gas??

 

[1of1547]

maybe it is BUT the last 1/8th mile can be a KILLER usually thats where all the "action" is

That's where I always seem to hurt mine!!!

 

[Razor]

I will ask how is this possible on pump gas??

Easy.. look at his combo. Would run mid 9's turned up on C16 or in this case alky

How do you build a reliable 10 second car. Easy, build it to run 8's and detune it. How do you build a reliable 9 second car.. easy.. build a 7 second car and detune it to run 9's.


I have seen TSM cars run 9.50 at 20 PSI boost. So you turn the wick down to 15-16 PSI.. it will run 10's on pump gas.

Its not "cheap".. never has been.

 

[turbo nasty]

Its not "cheap".. never has been.

Spoken like a true prodigy

 

[Grumpy]

Easy.. look at his combo. Would run mid 9's turned up on C16 or in this case alky

How do you build a reliable 10 second car. Easy, build it to run 8's and detune it. How do you build a reliable 9 second car.. easy.. build a 7 second car and detune it to run 9's.


I have seen TSM cars run 9.50 at 20 PSI boost. So you turn the wick down to 15-16 PSI.. it will run 10's on pump gas.

Its not "cheap".. never has been.

:biggrin: SOOOOO true !!

 

[bison]

Weakness is the stock cast pistons in the GN/T. You could buy my almost stock rebuilt GN with forged pistons as a good starting point LoL. 13.8 @ 97 on pump gas with no major mods. Using my 10 second T as a reference, I would get a set of ported big valve GN1 heads, forged pistons, rjc powerplate, 70mm dbb turbo, stock location stretch IC, 60# injectors, and a turbo tweak chip on AlkyControl...I'm thinking of doing that to my GN.

Stock pistons are not weak at all. Hundreds or TR's have run into the tens with them. Im sure a few have seen 9's. The stock caps and flexing crank are the weakness. Thats if theres zero detonation. Everything is weak when detonation is present. After fuel system and trans is all set it takes a decent set of iron heads, any turbo with a 76 trim exhaust wheel(some have done it with a a smaller wheel), a mild cam (I like the 212-212), a torque converter, drag radials or slicks, and an intercooler slic or fm. Its nice to have an adjustable valvetrain but not needed. The most important thing is the tune. Ive seen many $ in parts produce crap numbers. The tuning is the most important aspect. GN1 heads are a waste on a stock bottom end imo.