What is this noise? Help..crazy ticking noise

[Chuck Leeper]

Dr side header is cracked?? Sound comes thru the firewall near the rear of the engine? B4 you tear it down, fix the cracked header.
A couple other places to look.
Take the belt off, and start it.
Rod brg? Pull each plug wire, one at a time, and see if the noise changes.
If you plan to pull the engine, anyway, take the converter loose, push it back, start the engine. Cracked flywheel?

 

[crazyttypechic6]

We have checked the torque converter and flywheel. The plug wire test.

We will be checking/replacing:
*The rod bearing test
*replacing both headers and cross pipe

It really just seems the knock is extremely interal from the steth. Tests to the block and heads that we have done in the general location as mentioned previously.

Thank you for your recommendations we will be posting back input. The rain has set in today so going to break from it.

Keep the ideas suggestions coming.


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[TurboBuRick]

Like Chuck mentioned, I hear a header leak.

 

[crazyttypechic6]

SO -
Here is what I am thinking... because these flat tappet cams are so pesky and this valve train has really began to bug me. I would like to change up the valve train with a roller cam, rocker and rod assembly. Do you have to change out to comparable rod bearings as well in this switch? What about the crank? That also appears to be stock. Is there anything else to consider - see below.

Here is what we have:
TA49 Turbo
72# injectors
Turbo 400 Transmission
Eaton Spline 8.5 Rearend
Heads have been ported
3600 Converter

Here is what we would like to do:
Larger Turbo
Roller Cam with components (Roller Rocker assembly, rods & valve springs, etc.)
New performance headers
Repair rear main seal (leaking, good luck with that I know)
Repair any other bearings(rods, main) and seals that are bad

As you can see I am not an expert at any of this, hence all the questions and probably sometimes silly replies from me. I am kinda tired of patching this car just so we can drive it. I want it fixed correctly. It has been a great ride up until now so I cant complain one bit about it. I think its just time to put some love into it without breaking the bank. We may have to do the improvements over time but sure as heck we can start somewhere.

What are some recommendations for what I have listed above. Feel free to ask any questions (I will do my best to find out) Unfortunately I don't know what the heads are ported to. If you think I have listed something wrong as far as the car application - tell me that too, I will go back and do my home work.

I am excited to hear what you got for me.

 

[earlbrown]

Any chance the previous owner posts or used to post on this site (or any others). That 400 trans and a couple other things jumped out at me. People don't generally ditch overdrive just for the heck of it.


You need to get an accurate assessment of your engine in it's current state before making big plans on a rebuild. (or a whole bunch of internal parts replacements without rebuilding)

If you do in fact have a rod knocking, the engine is coming out regardless. If it's a header leak and some minor stuff, there's no reason to open that can of worms.


And take 'performance headers' off your list. Weld up the stockers and they'll take you deep into the 10's

 

[crazyttypechic6]

He may have, we have had the car since 2004. Previous to that it was another fella in GA a few hours from us.

Earl I would def. Agree on the assessment and we are def. Doing some major homework right now. TB forums and individuals such as yourself are an awesome help...I am grateful. We have paperwork and repair invoices from the first owner, we are the third. There just isnt enough info provided on them. We are trying to get up with the only fella in this area that is a mastermind at the TB's. If we can get that and gis assessment we will be on the road to recovery or in the right direction so to speak. This car is set up to run in the 1/8th my husband has ran it 6.80 and myself 7.10 in the 1/8. The qtr. It is low 10's but in the qtr. By the time we reach almost 1/4 mile we've ran out of shift lights so we have to back out of it.

There is def. Something in there knocking and it is not rods or rocker arms tapping..the exhaust would be a flapping correct? I have no doubt the exhaust isnt causing some of the noise its obvious, but when you drown that out ans steth the block and heads whhew goodness its a knock, its worse sense we took it down the road last friday.



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[earlbrown]

Sounds like you need a taller rear tire. Any idea if the car still has 3.42's in it?

Have you posted your location to see if someone local could take a look at it? An experienced ear might be able to tell you what it is within seconds.

The problem with having a car with enough HP to run 10's... if that a small problem can get compounded into a big problem with a quickness.

I'm still hanging on to it not being a rod bearing because if it was, it should be obvious by now with all the test drives.

 

[crazyttypechic6]

Sounds like you need a taller rear tire. Any idea if the car still has 3.42's in it?

Have you posted your location to see if someone local could take a look at it? An experienced ear might be able to tell you what it is within seconds.

The problem with having a car with enough HP to run 10's... if that a small problem can get compounded into a big problem with a quickness.

I'm still hanging on to it not being a rod bearing because if it was, it should be obvious by now with all the test drives.

Earl - this is what we are going to do tonight, we are going to get all the paper work out and make a list of what all is currently on the car from what we know and whats listed. 3 years ago we replaced the chunk in the rear end to a Eaton 30 Spline 8.5 but neither of us can think if we went back to the 3.42 ratio or we beefed it up, I myself want to say 3.73 but without looking I cant be certain because we went back and forth a few times about it.

Right off the bat I can tell you Chuck Leeper seems to be the closest one to me as we are in Thomson GA just from the locations that I have seen thus far. It would be super cool if someone could look at it.

Rod bearing - Friday night we took it down the road, starting out still that pesky little knock from my original post, we got down on it from a dead stop, while running pretty hard the boost built pretty dang good - not to its capacity because of the header hairline crack but good enough to haul ass - then just as soon as we let out of the gas it went to knocking like all hell broke loose and was a steady rythmic knock just like a push rod was bent now but a much deeper knock. We were supposed to race Saturday but said eff it and went to the race carless naturally we have not touched it sense then and decided to get a repair manual nailed down in which I have done off of TB, and try and get in touch with the local guy here which works a 6 day a week job. That hasn't been successful as of yet...

The next line of business now I guess would be to 1st go back and check for bent push rods and cracked rocker arms from Fridays "give it hell" to see if we messed up anything, THEN weld the dang header up to eliminate those two concerns so we can move past that, then remove the belt and listen for the knock, then locate someone to take a look at it for us.

Again I tell myself I freaking love this car!

 

[earlbrown]

bent pushrods and cracked shafts won't shut up from time to time. They'd just get worse. That's easy enough to check though, just pop off a valve cover.

I would guess it was 'beefed up' and the good ratio was replaced with 3.73's.

Chuck would be a good guy to put ears on it. I think he still has some hearing left

 

[crazyttypechic6]

bent pushrods and cracked shafts won't shut up from time to time. They'd just get worse. That's easy enough to check though, just pop off a valve cover.

I would guess it was 'beefed up' and the good ratio was replaced with 3.73's.

Chuck would be a good guy to put ears on it. I think he still has some hearing left

We had just replaced the passenger side rocker arm shaft assembly with one from Cottons last week before we took it down the road Friday, then checked drivers side assembly and put all new rods thinking the noise would stop. The noise in the video from my second post still existed and wouldn't stop. We ran MMO thinking it would help loosen things up, but nope - so we took it down the road Friday and now we have a more intense knock.

Maybe Chuck would be so kind to listen to it for us -

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I can do that....
Are you close to Bob Wren? He's a TB guy.
Who had this car, before you got it?

 

[crazyttypechic6]

Yes we are in the same town as BW and know him very very well. He has one of the nicest TB's i have seen. Hes a friend of some mutual friends. If we could get this looked at Outside of BW we would Like that.

A guy named Daniel from around Dallas GA...before that it came from upstate somewhere.



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[crazyttypechic6]

We've had the car for 10 years now though.

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[Chuck Leeper]

bent pushrods and cracked shafts won't shut up from time to time. They'd just get worse. That's easy enough to check though, just pop off a valve cover.

I would guess it was 'beefed up' and the good ratio was replaced with 3.73's.

Chuck would be a good guy to put ears on it. I think he still has some hearing left

DING, DING!!
Turbo 400..... something comes to mind: Excessive converter out psi, is shoving the crank forward, and the thrust brg is toast. I'm betting that the orifice mod has not been done.

 

[earlbrown]

Does the pressure on a 400 converter yoke drop enough at idle speed to let the crank chatter back and forth? I guess if it's a higher stall unit, it might

 

[robzombie]

Right off the bat I can tell you Chuck Leeper seems to be the closest one to me as we are in Thomson GA just from the locations that I have seen thus far. It would be super cool if someone could look at it.

Off Topic:

Were you by chance at Head Hunters drag strip watching or participating in the grudge race last Saturday??

 

[crazyttypechic6]

Yes

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[Chuck Leeper]

Does the pressure on a 400 converter yoke drop enough at idle speed to let the crank chatter back and forth? I guess if it's a higher stall unit, it might

I checked it on my 400, but many yrs ago. The damage may allow the crank to do the "main brg boogie", and thus be detectable at idle. Enough "slop", and it will start twisting the rods sideways.
I discussed tests w/ the op last nite.
Cut the filter open.
Check crank end play.
Check balancer.

 

[robzombie]

Yes

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You're Travis's wife aren't you??

That place was a crazy ZOO!!!

Travis said your car had a 45A on it not a 49 if that makes a difference.

 

[robzombie]

You're car is sweet, and I had a great time with all of you that day.

It was a pleasure to meet you,Travis,Dan and Jeff.

You guys are great people and I thank you all for the hospitality and good times in spite of the situation at the track.

Dan is going to the house of hook tomorrow night [test his truck] and I'll see him there along with Curtis.

I hope you get your car squared away and we can meet up at the track for some more fun times.